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looks good, Only thing I see is I think the rules in some places require the hitch to be solid in all direcitions and I dont see anything holding it down.
that may be especially important if you start bouncing, if that hitch goes up it could snap that pin off when it comes back down.
if you have room to get another pin above it that will probably work fine
it does pin with one above and one below the hitch. it gets a little bit of slack up and down, but not much and i don't think it will matter much. at maximum hitch height there is NO movement at all. the middle adjustment on it has a little bit of play, maybe 1/4".. the lowest adjustment has about 3/8" to 1/2" of play in it though. hopefully he doesn't need that one much.
Ross, in the highest position, which the pics are of...there's no need for an upper pin. It's wedged against the rear most gray crossmember. But in the lower positions, it will have a pin above and below the draw bar. But you are correct, the rules state it has to be stationary in all directions.
Travis, after I welded out everything, it apperently drew those adjustment plates in farther. We had to force the hitch back in there with a floor jack. So there will be NO play when the judges look at it. If we want to move it, it will take a BFH, and I don't mean a turbo. LOL
Travis, after I welded out everything, it apperently drew those adjustment plates in farther. We had to force the hitch back in there with a floor jack. So there will be NO play when the judges look at it. If we want to move it, it will take a BFH, and I don't mean a turbo. LOL
can we heat them up just a fuzz and push them out a little bit with the duckbill just to the point where we will have to use some force to move it, but yet still be pretty tight like we had it before??? i wanted that to come out just right so bad!!! do you wanna leave it like that or try to do something so we don't need a BMFH???
Great work! I had a completely different idea of how you were gonna fasten the hieght of the hitch. Your s is much more stout than what I had in mind. It'll loosen up after a couple runs I'm sure. Matter of fact a bolt below instead of a pin will clamp it up tight and satisfy the judges. Even if it loosens. my $.02 I know you've only got about 2 weeks so go get that motor pulled and get that tractor runnin' !
Dang it Jack.....where were you 2 days ago. LOL That is a very good point with the bolts. And that would have allowed slightly larger holes and made alignment alot easier. Very good point my friend, and I believe I will take your bolt idea and run with it.
Dang it Jack.....where were you 2 days ago. LOL That is a very good point with the bolts. And that would have allowed slightly larger holes and made alignment alot easier. Very good point my friend, and I believe I will take your bolt idea and run with it.
run fast with it Cody.
I was putting in the CPS Travis reccomended LOL. Happy Easter boys
Dang it Jack.....where were you 2 days ago. LOL That is a very good point with the bolts. And that would have allowed slightly larger holes and made alignment alot easier. Very good point my friend, and I believe I will take your bolt idea and run with it.
i just said the same thing. great idea Jack!! a little late, but at least it surfaced and he can do it. LoL. motor time is sounding pretty fun, but sadly i won't be in on it next weekend if you working on it next weekend....
Anytime guys.. I get lots of ideas... every once in a while I guess I even get a good one. thats the cool thing about this site people helping each other out.
I know you're gonna be up to your elbows in that engine for a while so I'm looking forward to hearing about that part of the BADAZZ sled puller!
That is a pretty dang good idea Jack if I do say so myself, that way you could heat it up and loosen it up a little and then just clamp it back down with some grade 8's. Can't wait for the motor pulling! But I think that we need to take a few more than 3 pictures this time..... hahaha. That one still has me laughing good one Cody.
Your hitch frame is basically a truss system.
In a truss system the members or bars only carry either tension or compression forces along their length.
The middle bar will not help carry any force since the end towards the front of truck is fastened to a bar that is only perpendicular to it.
This means that the two outer bars will carry most if not all of the load.
any force carried by the middle bar will be transfered to the frame of the truck through shear forces in the perpendicular bar.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with having the middle bar there. In fact, it will make it more stable.
That's why I asked about the weight of the truck. If you are too heavy, you can cut that middle bar out and be just fine.
Okay guys, here we go. I've got alot of pics, so I'll do my best to set them up to tell you what's going on. There's alot.
The first few pics, I had to break out the big guns again. I called in another of my triplet boys to help take the front of the truck apart for the engine removal. Meet Cooper!
More front end removal....Before you ask, some people don't do it this way. I find it easier to remove the front of the truck to pull the motor on these Power Strokes.