When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Back in the 60's Ford used to put a drain plug on the c4 and c6 trannys, which made changing them really easy. It's so much easier to change a filter when you can drain the fluid first and then drop the pan instead of trying to angle which direction you want a gallon of fluid to spray(and it never goes where you want it to). My wife's Eclipse doesn't even have a filter for the tranny. It has an easy connect fitting and you just unhook the hose, let the car idle for about a minute to drain the fluid and then put the new fluid in. The tranny filler neck is on the front of the engine too. On my one(and last) automatic T-Bird, the filler neck and dipstick is down underneath the firewall and you need about a foot and a half long funnel just to get to it. That's still better than my ex wifes Oldsmobile though. You couldn't even change/check the fluid in it and it wasn't rebuildable. You just drove it until it broke and bought a new one.
Having a turbo does help the diesel a lot. I won't deny that. But that is the good thing about a diesel. You can run 30-45 psi on them all day and not affect reliability in the least bit(no spark/detonation, stronger block and internals, etc). A PSD weighs over twice what a v10 or 5.4 weighs for a reason. The modulars are pretty bulletproof, but put 30 PSI with no intercooler (or even with one) and hold it wide open up a 10-15 mile climb and you MIGHT make it half way up before you leave a few rods on the side of the road. I tried it with a 351 and didn't make it an 1/8th of a mile before I split the block in half lol.
Just a few things about this.
The turbocharer is EXACTLY what makes a turbodiesel engine what it is. Without the turbo, that diesel engine is just another lethargic pig wishing it could make good hp/tq. There's a reason the N/A diesel died in any kind of on-road vehicle application where you'll tow and/or work the engine at all. You can pour all the fuel you want to into that diesel engine, but without that turbo on there to feed it air-it's not gonna make power-period.
It wouldn't take 30-45 psi boost on a gasoline engine of similar displacement to make the same power as a diesel engine. 8-10 psi would be more than enough to make a 6.8L equivalent to the power level of a 6.0L or a 6.4L-and more than the 7.3L. The power/tq graphs of turbocharged gasoline engines look alot like a turbodiesel engine, with one exception-the gasoline engine doesn't fall flat on it's face at a low rpm like a diesel does. There's a certain point where a compression ignition engine simply cannot rev anymore-the fuel simply cannot burn any faster. With a spark ignition engine you can simply advance the timing and extend the rpm range of power production by starting that burn cycle earlier-up to a certain limiting point based on fuel octane and EGT.
As for parts durability-modular engine blocks are some of the strongest engine blocks in production-they're proven to reliable handle 800+ hp in even their smallest version-the 4.6L (something an old dinosaur-tech pushrod Windsor block can't even come close to). The crankshafts are very strong and are supported well due to the deep skirt block design with a minimum of 4 bolts for each maincap. The weak links of these modular engines are the OEM pistons and the connecting rods. The pistons are designed and built for noise reduction and low emission with a hypereutectic material that has a very high top ring package with a very small top ring land that won't hold up well in a boosted application. The con rods are lightweight powdered metal components that are designed to be cheap to manufacture, lightweight for reciprocating mass reduction, and just strong enough to live within the OEM RPM and power limits.
JL
I've owned my share of C4-equipped '60's Fords, but none ever had a trans drain plug. I always put on in after installing the required B&M Shift Improver Kit, and they usually leaked, which kinda made it a self-draining drain plug! I was way ahead of my time back then...
It wouldn't take 30-45 psi boost on a gasoline engine of similar displacement to make the same power as a diesel engine. 8-10 psi would be more than enough to make a 6.8L equivalent to the power level of a 6.0L or a 6.4L-and more than the 7.3L. The power/tq graphs of turbocharged gasoline engines look alot like a turbodiesel engine, with one exception-the gasoline engine doesn't fall flat on it's face at a low rpm like a diesel does.
As for parts durability-modular engine blocks are some of the strongest engine blocks in production-they're proven to reliable handle 800+ hp in even their smallest version-the 4.6L (something an old dinosaur-tech pushrod Windsor block can't even come close to). JL
I wasn't saying you would have to run 30-45 psi on a gasser to make that kind of power. I was just saying run that much on a v10 and see what happens. It may have a strong block compared to the old windsor blocks, but it's not even close to a PSD block.
I haven't seen too many(ok, any at all) high mileage turbo/supercharged gas engines that still run decent. I would like to see some high mileage supercharged mod motors to see how they hold up, but all of the cobras and lightnings I see have about 20k miles on them. I've thought about putting a supercharger on my 5.4, but every gasser I see(or have owned) with a turbo/supercharger craps out around 120k miles and I would like to keep my truck running a little longer than that.
I've owned my share of C4-equipped '60's Fords, but none ever had a trans drain plug. I always put on in after installing the required B&M Shift Improver Kit, and they usually leaked, which kinda made it a self-draining drain plug! I was way ahead of my time back then...
I only had one older c4 and it had the drain plug. Maybe it was just the type of car I had. The 69 c6 I just finished overhauling has a plug too.
Are you positive it's original? I've seen a few installed that were aftermarket, but I've never seen one that actually came with it stock.
The c4 I had was bought used, so it may have been added on afterwards. The 69 with the c6 has been in my family since it was new and I am 99.9% certain it is all stock. As far as I know no one has done anything to it at all except when I changed the carb a few months ago. The oil hadn't been changed in it since 1975, so I doubt the tranny has ever been touched.
Like the whole take the cab off to get to the head gasket. That one completely backfired when the head gaskets did not last through the warranty cycle.
And why do I need a special socket just to take the seats out.
Okay, that is my Ford rant for both V10 and PSD! haha.
Thats not a problem on the V10.
The Star sockets are $40 bucks for a set from Sears.
I have needed them on Ford, Chevy and Dodge.
Josh, I want a 2011 mustang too. 411 HP and a 6 speed stick sounds like the best mustang yet.
The Star sockets are $40 bucks for a set from Sears.
I have needed them on Ford, Chevy and Dodge.
You also need them to remove a seat belt. I guess it's to prevent people that are mechanically challenged from messing with anything that has to do with safety. The ones that I don't understand are the special screws that hold bathroom stalls together. I have never once gone for a "sit down" and thought, you know, I think I'm going to take this stall door home with me.......
You also need them to remove a seat belt. I guess it's to prevent people that are mechanically challenged from messing with anything that has to do with safety. The ones that I don't understand are the special screws that hold bathroom stalls together. I have never once gone for a "sit down" and thought, you know, I think I'm going to take this stall door home with me.......
So you're the guy that has been stealing those doors!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.