I'm good Kris. The storm has passed already.

 

I went ahead and primed the fuel system today. It was too nice of a day to not be outside this evenign. Not hard, and pretty standard. I just bypassed the wiring and acticated the fuel pump relay with a couple jumper wires. I wanted to get it fully primed and lines filled, so when I go to start it I'm not waiting for the lines to fill at that time.

Also got the upper radiator hose installed. I used a stock Dodge upper radiator hose which fits pretty well with minor modification. The end that connects to the water pump outlet is about 3" too long, so it has to be cut off to fit. The radiator end made me think a little because the hose was too big to fit the radiator inlet. Easy fix though, as I just used a portion of the piece I cut off the other end to make a bushing. Took about an inch and a half of the cut off piece, pushed it over the radiator inlet where it fit tight, then the hose fit snugly over the top of that. Tightened it all down with a lines stainless hose clamp and it should be good and not leak.

Once the coolant tank gets here I'll be able to run the hose to it and then see about the lower hose routing. I could run it now, but I woudn't want to have to rebend it later because it's in the way of another hose.

I also started digging through the PCS manual last night and discovered a couple of pretty cool things.
1) it has a dyno mode built into it. That will let you program a speed where it will stay locked in the gear you program, no matter what the throttle position. So, I can program it to stay in OD at 50 MPH (or wherever) and the dyno operator can floor it from there with no fear of downshifting. This will allow to get a more true dyno reading of the engine from lower RPM than what we typically get, due to preventing a downshift.
2) the second thing I found is that I can have two different shift programs loaded in the controller. Once can be for daily driving and the other can be for racing, towing, whatever. It's a simple matter of hooking up one of the spare inputs to a switch and programming the software to tell it what you want the switch to do. Same thing with the dyno mode. So I'm going to wire up a SPDT center off switch to a couple of the imputs to I can activate the dyno mode and B shift calibration.

 

This thread has me on the edge of my damn seat! Can't wait. And Jeremy, thanks for all the little details man. I bet they will definately help the next guy who tries this.

 

Arrrrgggh. That sucks. Been off for a few days, expected to log on and see a link to the video of the truck running.

Also, someone get that man a battery tray. You could have mine Jeremy except that I am kinda using it.

 

Yeah, it kind of sucks, but it's also a bit of a relief. The stress of trying to rush and get it done was starting to get to me (as can be seen by my frustrated posts), and it will be better to take a little time and make sure it's done right. It will be cleaner and I'll ultimately be happier with it. The IC pipe will be nice and neat, made of 304 SS, and looking good. I believe Kai is going to have the cold side Electropolished (I had to google it) before he sends it to me, so it should be nice and shiny, as well as more corrosion resistant. The hot side pipe will be buried under air intake plumbing, so it won't matter as much if it's not all shiny, although he may get it done too. I'll have to talk to him about it. I may have him get the hot side one done anyway, since the electropolishing actually smooths the inside as well, and could make airflow through it easier, although it will probably be a negligble difference.

I did get the battery box ordered today, so it should be waiting for me when I get back from Indy. I have been trying to decide where to mount it, and I think that I'll put it on the inside of the frame rail, just in front of the fuel tank. I think it will be the best protected there and get little debris kicked up from the road. I don't think it will hang down any lower than the fuel tank, so ground clearance shouldn't be an issue. I'll just need to fab up some brackets for it to mount it to the frame. Also, I spoke to the company that makes them today (Taylor), and they reccomended that I coat the aluminum with something to help prevent corrosion, since it's raw aluminum. I may check into having it anodized, but not sure how long that will take. Powdercoating may work too, but again, time may be an issue. I may end up just spraying it with some clear or one of Duplicolor's metalic finishes, which are semi-transparent and would simulate an anodized finish.

As for a battery tray, Robin (PaysonPSD) has already gotten me taken care of. He PM'ed me and has a stock driver's side tray, which is really what I needed anyway but coulnd't remember if it was built into the battery box or not. He boxed it up and got it on the way to me over the weekend. So big thanks to Robin for getting me taken care of on the battery tray.

 

Man, this sucks. Get to the end and hopes are high, think youre on a roll and then you get caught up on something little... Man i feel for ya. But if you were on the meds i'm on, it would make it alot easier, hell ya might not even care

 

no meds in the world would make me not care..i love love my truck...but Jeremy does need a break....and a vaca away will do him alot of good..he has busted his azz on this thing and i admire the time and effort he has put in to his truck...doing a great job Jeremy....hope some day to meet you and your truck in person..keep up the good work...i owe, i owe..so off to work i go..have a great day guy's...

 

The break has been nice, but it's time to get back to work on this thing. Got home from Indy and had the battery box and oil filter relocation kit here. Dropped off the battery box at the powercoater today. It's raw aluminum, so I decided to have the outside powdercoated for protection. They're going to put a satin black finish on it and it should be done in a few days. The black was cheapest and quickest, and since it's going to be under the truck, I figured it would look pretty factory under there as well.

Talked to my welder about making a bracket to mount the battery box to the frame. He didn't think it would be too hard to get something fabbed up pretty quickly once the box is back from the coater. He'll use some angle iron to make a full tray for it to keep it solidly mounted and no chance of movement. Much better than what I had in mind. He's also mounted a bunch of different batteries to the frames of trucks, so it's not something new to him.

This week is pretty busy though, trying to get caught up from being gone, plus I've got to be out of town Wednesday and Thursday. Looks like it will be Friday or Saturday before I can get to work on it. I talked to Kai last week and he knows what my new timeline is, so I'm hoping if everything falls into place I'll have it going this weekend.

 

Congrats man. Youre album of pictures on your webshots i have stored in my head have been running through my head for the past three hours. Glad to see youre home and can get back to work on that beotch.

 

had to join in the action. I want to do this to my truck and this is by far the most detailed I've seen.

Gonna have to start and read the whole thread all over again.

Great job, and thank you; Jeremy

Toyman

 

Drums fingers on the computer desk.

 

Waiting for Jeremy to call.....Yep, I live in Indy, Jeremy was here watching a bike race in the rain with stupid wind gusts that eventually red flagged the race. Did I get a call? Ummmmm


































No

 

Why didn't you go see him? Call him on his cell? I'm sure you're over it Jason. If not, order some injectors from Swamps and come on down this weekend. We'll throw them in in between football games.

 

Looks like it's gonna be next week. In my haste to get this thing running, I completely forgot about needing a serial to USB adapter to go from the PCS to the laptop. I need to have the PCS running on my laptop so I can read RPM for cam break in. PCS is working on a box to interpret the crank sensor signal to a tach signal, and it will be available soon so I can have my factory tach working, but for the time being, I need the laptop. Well, PCS has tested a bunch of different adapter cables, and have only found 2 that can keep up with the speed demands of the connection and not intermittenly lose connection. Well, neither are available locally, so I had to order it online, and it will be here next Monday.

Add to that, I've still got a few parts I'm waiting on. Kai's work schedule hasn't allowed him the time to get the IC tubes done. No worries though. He'll get them done. Talked to him today, and he said they'll be done this weekend for sure. He's also going to check with Scott and see where in the heck my throttle cable adapter is. I think Kai's even getting frustrated about that one. The coolant tank is done though, and will ship with the IC tubes.

The powdercoater called today and my battery box is done there. I'm out of town until tomorrow though, so I can't pick it up until tomorrow evening or Friday, and get it to the welder on Friday morning to have the brackets made for it.

This week has been swamped with work anyway, so even if I had all my parts, I wouldn't have time to work on the truck, so it doesn't really bother me. Plus, I have to help Jeff move this weekend, so I may not have much time this weekend to work on it either. I'll have time to work on it next week, but I'm going to Kansas City next weekend for the NASCAR race, so if it's not done by Thursday, it will be week after next. Indy's over though, so I don't have any real timeline I'm trying to meet to have the truck ready for. However, I am ready to have it running!

Edit: Jason, my apologies for not calling. My head was spinning all weekend with everything going on.

 

I'm just messing with the quiter. I actually didn't think he was crazy enough to drive all the way up here to see motorcycles race in the wind and the rain! You should have seen all them knuckleheads hauling **** in their metal plated gortex trying to out run the storms!