I don't know how much flex there is in the radiator supports of the superduties.... but you may want to be careful bolting that Spearco IC up solid. If frame flex/ rad support flex can break the tank easy you might want to consider a rubber isolator somewhere. Others may be able to say whether they think it will be an issue, but with 600 HP I'd hate to see you thrash an IC due to not thinking about the truck underway. Contrary to popular belief, they move more then one would think.

Maybe I am making too much of it though,,, my opinion and $7.00 will but a cup of coffee almost anywhere in the world...

 

Leo, I hadn't thought about it that way. The top crossmember is the only place there is a solid mount, and everything fits so tightly there, I could probaly take the bolts completely out and it wouldn't move. The sides of the IC have a tab on it that sits on a nub on either side of the IC that supports the weight of it. There are rubber isolators in there, where the bulk of the weight is. The tabs on the top basically just stabilize it a little.

With all that being said, do you think there might be a problem still? I'm just not sure where I'd be able to add an isolator of some sort. You're right though, I don't want to break the IC.

 

No problems so far with my 'rigid' mount. Remember, the IC pipes will be attached to the intercooler via flexible boots.

I don't know what kind of issue you'll have with the IC pipe and the batteries, I would imagine it won't fit through there. That prompted the move of my batteries to the framerail, I had a pair of red tops mounted on the passenger side but with the change to the four inch piping, they had to go.

I have a hot-side 3-incher, with a 4" piece to mate to my SpearCo we used for the mock up if you think it will help? It's a bunch of cut up pipe and turns welded together, I mean it's not useable, but a good pipe bender could replicate it.

 

Come on Jet, send me some damn pictures under the hood of your truck! I know you hate to do pics but come on!

 

more what I was concerned with was "parrallelogram" action, left front tire picks up, top of rad support slides slightl to the left, frame is wound up like a 7 year old full of mountain dew and cappacino(sp?), and BOOM! the mount pulls one of the tanks off. If Solidground is having no issues then I am overthinking it....but being a toolmaker its one of those things where I can usually find a way... if you have the rubber on the bottom its probably enough. Some side to side slots and rubber washers around your rigid mount to allow things to slide around a bit might work for you. I would be more concerned about lateral forces when the frame winds up. If you don't plan on sled pulling it or pulling bulldozers with it I may still be overcomplicating matters.

 

I think the bends in the IC pipe can be done. There's enough room under the battery try to run pipes, it's just the bend up to the intake horn that concerns me. Off of the intake horn, the pipe would need a slight bend to get the pipe pointed straight down, maybe 12* or so. Then from there it would go straight down about 4" to 6" and need to make a 90* bend toward the driver's side to get it under the battery tray, then another 90* bend toward the front to get it toward the IC, and maybe another 4"-6" to get it to the IC outlet. I'm thinking the two 90* bends around the bottom of the battery tray could be made into one compound bend though, as there's some room to play with just behind the power steering reservoir.

I've got a welder/fabricator that's supposed to be stopping by tomorrow and take a look at it to see what he can do. He's one of the best around IMO -- same guy who did my modified EBPV on the PSD and the IAT sensor plate on the intake elbow for this conversion (see below). I may indeed need the pipe you've got made. I'll see what he's got to say and let you know, if that will work for you. It's my cold side pipe that has me worried though, so I'm wondering if yours will help. My hot side is simply a straight piece of pipe about 18" long.

I've kind of already got that built in. When I say it's solidly mounted, it's acutally an 8mm bolt with a big washer on it over a big hole/slot that's about the size of a quarter. It's the same spot where the rubber isolaters went on the stock PSD configuration. There's a good 1/4" - 3/8" on either side of the holes before they would run into the tab on the IC. I'd imagine that's enough room to allow any movement. I guess I just should make sure those bolts aren't too tight.

As mentioned above I did get the aluminum intake elbow to the welder to have a plate welded onto it so I could mount my IAT sensor. I'm sure I could have just secured it to something in the engine compartment, but would prefer to have it in the actual airstream. I'm super pleased with how it turned out. I took him the elbow & sensor to him and told him what I was trying to do, and left the rest up to him. He made the plate to the exact shape of the sensor, tapped the holes for the screw before he welded it so they don't protrude into the tube, and drilled the hole for the sensor itself. After I got it back, I had another friend of mine polish everything back up, since the tube was polished when I got it and had a few scuffs on it. He even polished the welds!




Earlier this afternoon, I decided to install the coolant filter, using the suggestion Pop gave me for mounting it. The plate took a few tries of mounting and removing it to get everything place how I wanted it, but I finally got it. Mounted everything up, filled a new filter with new coolant and water, put the filter on, and hooked up the hoses. I'm quite pleased with how it turned out. I had to angle the filter slightly to get the bolts to clear the front part of the frame as well as to get the filter to clear the bumper support so I can get the filter off for replacement. No big deal though, as the filter has a check valve in it and can actually be mounted at any angle, but since it's only a 10* to 15* angle, it's pretty close to vertical anyway.




One other thing I was looking at is the oil filter location. With all IC pipes and intake ducting in there, it looks like the filter will be a pain to get to unless the hot side pipe and intake ducting are removed. So, I'm looking into an oil filter relocation kit to make it easier to change the filter. PacBrake makes a pretty nice looking piece for the Dodge trucks that I think I can make work for me. Here's what I'm looking at: http://www.pacbrake.com/PDF/L5637.PDF





Tomorrow I'm going to get the upper & lower radiator hoses in place (lower one is a stainless flex line that will need to be bent to fit), hook up my OBD II port (I know I've said that like 5 times, but this time I mean it), hook up the OD off button & light, put the new filter in the Dahl, fill the fuel filters, and prime/fill the fuel lines. I may decide to go ahead and fill the engine with some fresh oil too.

 

Make sure you put dino oil in for the first change or two, i would personally not run synthetic on a new engine because it just lubricates the cylinders too well to seat rings. Other than that, im stoked for you man, its looking great.

 

Thanks Kris. We're on the same page, again. Cummins actually reccomends against synthetic for the first 20K. On the Cummins forums, I'm seeing some guys who's blowby doesn't start to go down until anywhere from 15K-30K. I'm going to be running Dino for a while, at least until my blowby goes down and it quits using oil, just to make sure the rings are seated. Probably Rotella for the first couple of changes, then Delo after that.

Since the engine is so new, and has also been sitting for the last 5 years, I'm gonna do a real quick change at probably 100-300 miles, then again at the 1500 mile mark, and finally settle in on 3000 mile changes until I put the good stuff in. Only then will I begin to extend the drain intervals. I'll be doing UOA's the whole way starting with the 1500 mile change. I know the quick changes may be overkill, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. On my bikes, I have always done the first change at 100 miles, and the amount of metal sparkling in the oil that drains out is pretty substantial. I can only imagine it will be even more so on an engine of this size.

 

Can't argue with common sense, Jeremy. I know oil isn't cheap but neither is a breakdown.

Just waiting to hear the START!

 

jeremy did you see the thread about oil companies raising it probabbly wouldn't be a bad idea to stock up on a little to do these first couple of changes. of course im sure your genious mind has already thought of this

 

I am also a very big proponent of frequent oil changes on a new engine.
First 100 miles is good, and yes a LOT of metal flakes come out of the sump.
I've never cut open a filter to see what is there, but with all the flakes in the sump, there has to be a lot.

 

It might be fun to send that initial drain to Blackstone, telling them that the engine has 3000 miles on the oil and 60,000 miles on the engine, just to see what they'd report back!

I know they ask for a daytime phone number, too, just in case....

Can you imagine the panic in their voice during that call? And they WOULD call.

Am I mean, or just playful?

Pop

 

Depends on how bad the heart attack is!

 

Now thats just evil haha.

 

It may be evil but it would definately let you know how there customer service truly is. Sounds like something I would do.