Keep it a sleeper. lol The chevy guys will wonder how you can be in front.

The door looks good.

 

Anyone who knows diesels will be able to tell is a Cummins after a microsecond of listening to it. Why not show it off then?

 

Alright, my decision is made. It's going on the door, where the PSD badge is now. If I decide on a sleeper look later, I can always take it off. Thanks for everybody's input and opinions. I'll get a pic of them on when I get them done. Not sure when I'll be able to do it, as it's supposed to rain here for the next couple of days.

 

If i were you, i would ponder over it for a few more days, put them on before you drive the truck. Ya never know, you might keep moving the badge around finding out where you like it,and just might want it somewhere else.

 

Based on my weather, I'm going to have to ponder it a few more days. I've actually been thinking about this in the back of my mind for the last week or so, since I ordered the badges. I think the spacing and placement on the lower door works out well as far as balancing the look goes, with the slight lift and long truck.

 

I personally think this would look better and if you put it where the original power stroke logo was, it would almost look factory. It even looks like it has similar dimensions to the old Power Stroke logo. To bad they only have a drawing of it though, and not an actual picture.

EDIT: I see you already ordered the badges, oh well then

Cummins ISB Badge - Badges - Cummins PowerStore

 

A little update, to so you all aren't being kept in suspension wondering what's going on. Bottom line -- the truck won't be ready in time for Indy and it will probably be a couple more weeks. No fear that it will be done though. It's not a huge setback, just taking a little longer. I'm now on a quest to find another truck that I can take to Indy, since I'm taking two people with me and hauling our bikes in my enclosed trailer.

I talked to Kai earlier, poor guy has come down with a sinus infection, so he's not feeling so hot. He talked to Scott at Destroked, and the throttle cable adapter needs another part machined before it's ready. Unfortunately, all of Scott's machines are tied up right now making batches of other parts, so it will be a few days before he can machine the parts. The coolant reservoir is also not back from Kai's welder yet. So even if the parts shipped tomorrow, it wouldn't give me enough time to get the parts installed and make a couple or three test trips before I felt comfortable taking off on a long road trip where other people are relying on me to get them and their stuff there.

Then there's the issue of the intercooler tubes. I took some measurements, a bunch of pictures, and a couple videos of the setup on the cold side. Kai doesn't see any way that he could make me a tube without having the truck there, and since he's in PA that's not feasable. My batteries are larger than his Optimas, so he can't simply copy his tube and send it to me. It would hit the battery tray.

Now, I could have a local welder fab me up some tubes, but Kai did bring up the point that that tube will have a couple of tight and complex bends in it that could restric the airflow. I'm now thinking that I need to relocate at least one of the batteries to the frame rail. I looked on Jeg's website, and they have a pretty nice sealed aluminum battery box: Taylor Aluminum Battery Boxes - JEGS I'm thinking that would work well to protect the battery down on the driver's side frame rail. I'd probably be able to ground it right to the frame and only have to run one battery cable up to the battery I'd leave in the engine compartment.

I want to leave one battery in the engine compartment for two reasons. One, all my battery cables are already run to that location, and I don't want to have to make all new cables again. I may have to make a couple new ones, but nothing major. Second reason is if I should ever need a jump start, or to give one, the battery under the hood would be much easier to access.

Relocating one battery would allow me to turn the battery back to the stock configuration, and provide plenty of clearance for an IC tube. Kai could then make me a copy of his, out is SS tubing too, and would only have a couple gentle 45* bends in it.

It's going to be a little extra work to relocate one battery, but ultimately I think it will still be clean and make the cold side IC tube much cleaner. Since I've hacked up my stock battery tray already to make my double one, which won't work, now I need to track down another stock passenger side battery tray.

If you guys have any other ideas, I'm all ears too. Otherwise I'll probably start working on relocating one of the batteries next week and hopefully I'll have the rest of the parts the week after I get back from Indy. So, it's going to be at least another couple weeks before it's running, due to constraints of time and parts availability.

Anyone know where I can get a stock passenger side battery tray?

 

It's kinda funny to me because when i tossed my motor ALOT of people told me i should just "throw a cummins in it" And i thought about it for a good amount of time. But then i got to thinking its not just "throwing" it in there. Although the end result is well worth it for numerous reasons. It would of had to be done out at my barn and that just didn't sound like it was the best way to do it. I give you all the props in the world for taking this on and can't wait to see the end result!

 

My thoughts exactly.
If my engine ever pukes, it is simply getting rebuilt.
Kudos to Jeremy and all the others for making a hybrid vehicle, but in the long run it is a LOT easier to stick with the factory design.

 

And alot of the websites for doing the conversion make it sound half way easy!

 

Jeremy, I'm sure this has already occurred to you, but if it's going to be as difficult as it sounds to get the CAC tubing plumbed with just the one turbo, will it be even more difficult when it comes time for compounds down the road? Will you be able to make room for a second turbo and the required piping at that point?

Maybe something to keep in the back of your mind.

 

In all reality, it's not been that difficult at all. The hurdles I've had to overcome have been small ones. I didn't have to make my own motor mounts, adapter plates, flex plates, trans controller was already figured out, etc... This battery and IC piping is pretty much the most difficult thing I've run into, and not that hard to overcome. If that's been my most difficult problem, I'd say the conversion hasn't been too bad.

It's not all cake and ice cream, but it's by no means super difficult either. Remember, I'm keeping you guys pretty detailed updated, so small problems may seem worse than what they really are. Plus the anticipation of working this far and having to wait, makes this problem seem worse too.

I appreciate that Ryan. The ony difficult part I'm having is with the cold side CAC pipe, and it won't change with compounds. Also, when compounds come, I will have a lot more time on my hands to fab something up, where as I've been trying to push to have this one done by now. If I had slowed down a little earlier, I would have more than likely caught this CAC tube fit a lot sooner. I guess that's what I get for trying to rush.

 

And you seem to be getting all bent outta shape over it, where in the end it probably wont even come into play

 

Kris, I'm probably getting bent out of shape out due to frustration with the time frame more than anything. I've been trying so hard to get the truck ready for my trip next weekend, and to get this close but not be able to make it is kind of a let down for me. I'm still pumped about the conversion overall, but bummed I can't take the truck next weekend. You're right though, in the end, everything will be worked out.

Talked to Kai this morning. He's going to copy his pipes for me and get everything sent. Moving the battery before I leave next week and should have my parts by the time I get back from Indy, Hopefully I will have the truck running within the next two weeks.