Sorry about the wrong info guys.

Jeremy, cost me 17,000 for the building and 5,000 for the concrete. The building is rated at 120 mph winds, 12' slide door in front and 10' slide door in back. The walls are 12', wish I would gone with 14". The building was turn key, and I did all the prep for the concrete, hired finishers. Mine is 40'x60'.
This was when we were diong my turbo.

 

Looks a lot like what I'm after, Rick. I think I'd have to get normal garage doors though, but the kind that roll up above the door frame. I'm thinking the front would be 40' wide, and 30' deep, with one 10' tall x 16' wide garage door to the left and a standard double entry door on the right, with a little bit of a lean-to on the front to overhang. That way I could leave the doors open when it's raining and keep some of the weather out. Oh, and I'd also like to have the ceiling space open, which may force me to go with steel instead of wood. It's all just a dream right now though.

Looks like rain may hold off today, so I might be able to get some more work done this evening. My battery tray is ready, so I'm going to get it picked up this afternoon, fabbed up, painted, and can start figuring out the battery cable arrangement.

 

Steel frame is a bit pricier than wood frame, but I think you can do wood frame with open cielings at additional cost as well. My preference is steel frame.... but the money does not justify it sometimes. The only problem with the wide doors is they don't stand heavy winds as well. I have a 14 x 14 roll up on one entrance of the machine shop and (2) 10'tall x 14'wide doors on 2 other spots, no significant wind issues, but in the chance you got hurricane/ tornado class winds the cheaper doors they say get mashed into whatever is inside. I know dad's place in the flood the lighweight steel roll up doors got pushed right out of the tracks...., popped the rollers out. You could reinstall them, but the tracks twisted from the load and the door just fell in. The fiberglass door flexed enough the latches popped free, and it rolled up. 30 x 40 is a nice size.... but ya never can build a big enough shop. last addition I ut on the machine shop was 50 x 115.... took less than a year to fill it.

 

We have something like a 22x14 insulated door that goes across both the front and back of the shop. The solid particle beam that goes across that holds the springs were two pricey mothers.

 

X2 and more I am sure. I am stoked. Seems almost like my truck or something especially as it gets closer. Almost like my soap opera now. Pretty much the first thread I look for.

Ron, you ought to get some sleep yourself.

 

Jeremy and all, didn't mean to be kicking a dead dog but hadn't read about adapting the front drive shaft. My bad by not being more specific since there are front and rear parts to the rear shaft. Thanks for the answer, Jeremy. OK, I'm done.

I recently read that a 10,000# lift needs only 4" of 3000# concrete to be mounted on. Figured it would be a lot more.

 

Mark, no worries. I hadn't mentioned the front driveshaft at all, so it was a completely valid question. Interesting info on the lift too. I figured it would need 6"-8" or more for a 10K lift.

Mike, I'm glad you're excited about this too. You were the only one to wittness the incident that lead to this, and my mood immediately after that happened. I think you felt my pain.

Got my power steering all hooked up tonight. That took some finagaling to get everything to fit right, but it's done. The hose routing looks ok, but it's hard to get it super neat and clean with the location of everything. The outlet of the PS reservoir is straight down, and with it being located directly above the steering gear box, it's a very tight fit to get a 90* bend in there. Luckily, I had the stock hoses from the Cummins and one of them had a pre-bent section that I cut out and used.

Connected the pyro to the manifold and hooked up my boost gauge to the intake horn. Got all the wires and the wire cover at the upper cowl put back on, so it's starting to look more put together.

Picked up my battery tray today as well. The passenger side battery tray can be used on the driver's side, with some new holes drilled in the bottom to match the location of the bolts, but the part that mounts to the fender fits fine. So, I took the stock passenger side metal tray and had a 1/8" sheet of steel welded to it. It needed some trimming, so I trimmed off the excess and drilled some new holes. The sheet of steel had to have large holes cut in it so the bolts can pass through it to reach the stock tray underneath it. I also had to cut another hole in it so I can mount a bracket to it for a battery hold down, but my hole saw was completely shot after cutting the first two holes, so the Dremel had to be used to cut a square hole. It's not the prettiest, but the holes will be under the battery so they won't be seen.

After it was cut, drilled, and test fitted in the truck, I painted it with some stuff from Duplicolor that's made to be sprayed in a truck bed. It's a plastic type of paint that I'm told is pretty dang tough, so it should hold up well to a couple batteries sitting on top of it. Here's a pic of the finished product, hanging as it dries:




While the batteries were in the truck, I also started looking at the battery wiring. I may be able to use some of the stock connectors for the battery posts, just splicing some new wires in it. I haven't yet decided how I want to do that though. I need to sleep on it and thing about it again later.

I also started laying out my air intake piping. The filter is not here yet, so I couldn't finalize anything, but at least I think the pieces of tubing and rubber elbows that I got will work. I need for the filter to get here so I can finalize placement of everything though. I want to have a plate welded onto a metal section of the intake so I can drill and tap it for my AIT sensor. The guy who does some really nice aluminum welds can take a few days to get some stuff done, so the sooner I get it to him, the better.

The chance of rain today kept me from diving into the wiring yet. I didn't like the idea of being outside with lights and the soldering iron setup and a thunderstorm suddenly moving in. Rain is in the forecast for the next couple of days too, so I'm not sure when I might be able to get to it.

Off to bed now.

 

Jeremy, great to see and here about the progress you are making. It is great to see that you aren't rushing into things. The nice thing is, when you are done you won't have to change a lot of things around. Good luck finishing up!

 

Forgive my ignorance, but is that a fuel line that looks to be touching the Glacier housing?
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Doesn't the Cummins use an injector pump? Would high pressure in that line cause any noise if it's touching the housing?

 

That is probably not touching, but the pic looks deceiving.... The pressure inside that line is over 20,000psi, yes you are right.

 

Thanks Kris. Just trying to pay attention and learn as he goes.

 

been stressed out last couple weeks but im in bed by 9 or 10 and up by 4am every day any how...pisses the girlfriend off lol...boss told me he is selling the trucks.fuel prices.....i was kind of scared but i just nailed down another job..i start monday hauling car's out of MA,CT,RI to come up here....not sure ill like it..but ill try anything once and its better then starving...

 

It is actually just barely touching that grid heater delete, yes. There is a CP3 pump on there, that can have injection pressures of up to 26K. I don't know if it would cause any noise or not, since the line is solidly mounted on both ends and the grid heater is also solidly mounted...both on the head. There's nowhere really for movement to occour. That #1 injector line is not at all difficult to get off though, so I may just mark the Glacier spacer and hit it with a little die gridner on the Dremel.

 

Jeremy, hijacking your thread for a bit. Ron, sorry to hear about the job situation but seems that you have taken care of it in a good way. Glad that something was available quickly to keep the paycheck coming in. Be careful on those "straight" roads and roundabouts up there. But it sure is beautiful country! Hijack over.

 

I was more concerned with the high pressure fuel causing a vibration noise that would carry. Not really a metal rubbing on metal, more along the lines of a power steering pump whine.

There are words to describe it that I can't think of right now. Maybe it's something with frequency or resonation? Maybe one of the smart guys will tell me what I'm thinking of.