Crewcab Only Thread.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,014
Likes: 35
From: Semper Fi tell I die!
80-85 ford never offered a solid axle in f350 or below, in 1986 they brought back the dana 60 for f350's
New User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 19
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73 Crew Roof Repair
I just picked up a clean 73 Crew 4x2 and needed some input for reparing some rusted areas above the drip rails. I read threads that discuss the moisture issue that these trucks have above the door area. My truck has small holes at various locations that are 3 / 8" of an inch or less. I plan to remove the headliner and use a rust neutralizer product from Eastwood o similar that will be sprayed in by wand application to all areas aove the cab. I think that if I chase all these holes by welding with .023 wire and gas that it will just get larger due to thinning metal and rust. I was thinking of grinding said areas and then using a lead soldier kit from Eastwood to fill these hole instead of patch panels or welding. I am curious as how others have made these repairs other than major welding of patch panels of entire roof panel replacement. I do not want to just grind and fill these areas will bondo ( would not last long IMOP). I just want to have a clean crew that will get used and sometimes abused and last for years to come. Thanks for any advice in advance.
Matt
73 Crew 4x2 ( 4x4 Soon)
67 F-250 4x4
Matt
73 Crew 4x2 ( 4x4 Soon)
67 F-250 4x4
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,219
Likes: 190
From: Colorado Springs
I just picked up a clean 73 Crew 4x2 and needed some input for reparing some rusted areas above the drip rails. I read threads that discuss the moisture issue that these trucks have above the door area. My truck has small holes at various locations that are 3 / 8" of an inch or less. I plan to remove the headliner and use a rust neutralizer product from Eastwood o similar that will be sprayed in by wand application to all areas aove the cab. I think that if I chase all these holes by welding with .023 wire and gas that it will just get larger due to thinning metal and rust. I was thinking of grinding said areas and then using a lead soldier kit from Eastwood to fill these hole instead of patch panels or welding. I am curious as how others have made these repairs other than major welding of patch panels of entire roof panel replacement. I do not want to just grind and fill these areas will bondo ( would not last long IMOP). I just want to have a clean crew that will get used and sometimes abused and last for years to come. Thanks for any advice in advance.
Matt
73 Crew 4x2 ( 4x4 Soon)
67 F-250 4x4
Matt
73 Crew 4x2 ( 4x4 Soon)
67 F-250 4x4
I think lead would be a good choice for small repairs like this, Then spraying Eastwood's heavy duty anti-rust inside.
Why don't you give it a try and post pictures for the rest of us? I'm sure we can all help you out along the way. I haven't heard of a detailed thread regarding a repair like this, so maybe it's time.
New User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Since spring is in the air, once again, I must, once again make this offer. The fellow from Idaho that thought he would come, last year, and get my 1976 CC, 460, C6 {Burnt 0ut} .331 diff. XLT trim, has not gotten it yet. Therefore, is there anyone willing to take it, complete, off my hands? Free, come get it, 15 mi. West of Innisfail, Alberta, Canada. If no one needs it whole, then parts will be available and the rest will go to the scrap yard. The pictures are back about 10 pages or so.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 41
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Well fellas,as bad as I hate to,I am putting my 79 Crew up for sale.If there is anyone interested or know of anyone looking for one I have it in the trucks for sale section.Pics of it can be seen in my profile.It is a very solid truck.I also have a 1991 Dodge 3500 with a 5.9 Cummins diesel that I was going to put in the crew cab that is for sale also for those who want to make the conversion.I am asking $1500 for the Dodge and $7500 for the Crew Cab short bed F250.Thanks for the help.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Canyon, TX
This thread has been dead for a few weeks--where are all the crew cab owners? 
I do have a question: is 78-79 crew cab long bed the same length as a typical "8 foot" bed of the era? I'm thinking about getting a topper for mine and know the basics that most anything that fits on a 73-96 Ford bed will be good to go. Found one that's sitting on a 95 Ford long bed that looks like it will work but don't want my crew cab to be that exception.
I do have a question: is 78-79 crew cab long bed the same length as a typical "8 foot" bed of the era? I'm thinking about getting a topper for mine and know the basics that most anything that fits on a 73-96 Ford bed will be good to go. Found one that's sitting on a 95 Ford long bed that looks like it will work but don't want my crew cab to be that exception.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,751
Likes: 3
From: Sin City
This thread has been dead for a few weeks--where are all the crew cab owners?
I do have a question: is 78-79 crew cab long bed the same length as a typical "8 foot" bed of the era? I'm thinking about getting a topper for mine and know the basics that most anything that fits on a 73-96 Ford bed will be good to go. Found one that's sitting on a 95 Ford long bed that looks like it will work but don't want my crew cab to be that exception.
I do have a question: is 78-79 crew cab long bed the same length as a typical "8 foot" bed of the era? I'm thinking about getting a topper for mine and know the basics that most anything that fits on a 73-96 Ford bed will be good to go. Found one that's sitting on a 95 Ford long bed that looks like it will work but don't want my crew cab to be that exception.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Canyon, TX
Remember that the 73-79 trucks had more of a slant to the back of the cab than the newer models, 17 degrees IIRC. If you don't mind the cap being closer to the cab on the bottom than at the top it will work. Most of the topper companies used to make the slanted canopies back in the day.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 131
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Thinking of selling my 1978 Crewcab
I have a white 1978 Crewcab 4x4 4spd. No air, different interior front seats.
Has some rust on bed and other cosmetic repairs needed. Its a solid truck frame in good shape. About 160K supposed to have been rebuilt.I've owned it for probably 10 years. I put new clutch and seals in last year. Its road worthy and currently insured on the road. I use it as a farm and hunting truck. Pictures in my old gallery. Kind hate to sell but.......thinking about it.
WHATS IT WORTH??? I have too many vehicles and the kids are starting to drive and I'm thinking of moving into some other vehicle.
In Ohio 43950
Thanks JOHN
Has some rust on bed and other cosmetic repairs needed. Its a solid truck frame in good shape. About 160K supposed to have been rebuilt.I've owned it for probably 10 years. I put new clutch and seals in last year. Its road worthy and currently insured on the road. I use it as a farm and hunting truck. Pictures in my old gallery. Kind hate to sell but.......thinking about it.
WHATS IT WORTH??? I have too many vehicles and the kids are starting to drive and I'm thinking of moving into some other vehicle.
In Ohio 43950
Thanks JOHN
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Newcastle WY
Drive Line Question
Hey Guys, I am sure someone has done this before and can awnser a question for me. I am in the process of building a '73 crew cab, when I got it, it had no engine and I pulled the Tranny and divorced Transfer Case out of it. What I put back in it was out of my old '78 Reg Cab. A 400 cu. in. engine and C6 Tranny with a married Transfer Case.
I figure I am going to have to run a 2-piece drive line due to the extended length of not having the divorced T-case, so here is the question, what have some of you done as far as Carrier Bearings and mounting them etc...? Pictures would be great. Oh and I put a 9" Lift on it, so I assume I will have to roll the axles to get a proper drive line angle? or does someone make a high angle drive line that would hold up to this?
Thanks
I figure I am going to have to run a 2-piece drive line due to the extended length of not having the divorced T-case, so here is the question, what have some of you done as far as Carrier Bearings and mounting them etc...? Pictures would be great. Oh and I put a 9" Lift on it, so I assume I will have to roll the axles to get a proper drive line angle? or does someone make a high angle drive line that would hold up to this?
Thanks