Runs underneath the drip rail area at the top and there is lead filler from the factory at the corner seams. Probably a cut-off disc job and a lead-filtering mask.

Bottom should be really obvious.

 

Hi Guys! I need to add another seat to my crew cab (lots of kids) and I've seen F250 swaps with jump seats... anyone know if there is someone who has successfully taken out the console and put in a jump seat when the console has the shifter on it? Not sure if it's even possible.

 

Wrong forum, Sir. This is 1973-1979.

 

Ahhh I thought I saw Crew Cab only... any crew cab.

 

Is this actually true???

 

Yes this is true. I posted a small documentary a couple years ago on here on how crewcabs were made.

 

Link????????

 

There is no link, it's in this thread. I joined in early 2010 so go back in this thread to that time and start coming fwd. I won't have access to my home computer for a few days to where I can post it again.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...l#post13810102


Very good write up! I just learned a bunch of stuff. Thanks!

 

Here is a link to show the differences of the front and rear window channels and also the front and rear window regulators.

Difference in front and rear door windows and regulators - Old Ford Crew Cab Community

 

I just bought a 1979 ford crew cab 4x4 with a 6in lift with a 400 c6 np205

will get more pictures of it when i get it home

 

Wow, It looks rough. Hope you didn't pay a lot for it. What are your plans for it?

 

Ok here his the short Doc of How Crew Cabs Were Made.

Ontario Canada was the factory that produced all of the early Crews. All were essentially "hand made" and there really wasn't any deep, dark, or mysterious secret as to how they were made. By the way, my 1970 F-250 Highboy is this same way also. You will find this is the case with all of the "Bumps" and with all of the "Dents" which are Crew Cabs. That means all were "hand-made" until production of them ceased in 1979. I will explain how to tell about the "hand-made" portion in a few moments, but first, here's what was required to make one.

Two cabs were used, with the back of one and the front part of the other. It appears there was a "special" roof panel made and this was attached to the top of the cab after the modifications were completed so there was a one piece roof installed. The front part of the rear doors were literally "cut-off" from the vent window forward and the front edge was modified and used to complete the front edge of the doors after welding and shaping. The interior door panel was cut off on the front portion so it would now fit against the door with its front edge matching the doors front edge. Here is one of the "chintzy" things you will find. They tack welded a small piece of angle iron on the front edge of the rear door to make a slot for the door panel to slide into as they had cut off the front edge with the screw holes. The door panel front edge just "floats" inside the groove made with the angle iron. The rest of the screws on the top, bottom and back edge are fastened to the door to hold the panel in place. If you hear a faint rattle, simply tap the angle iron with a small hammer and "tighten" it against the door panel when it's in place.

Now, here's where it gets fun! The window crank on the front doors is close to the front edge of the door. This part was cut off on the rear doors so there wasn't a place anymore for the window crank. By taking a passenger side door window regulator and turning it around backwards and then installing it into the Driver's side rear door, the window crank became usable and now was located to the rear edge of the rear door and worked perfectly! Then using a window regulator from the Driver's side door, installing it backward in the passenger side rear door, it worked perfectly too, and the crank again was now positioned close to the rear edge of the door. The passenger door glass was used in the passenger side rear door and the driver's side glass was then used in the driver's side rear door. Drilling a new hole for the window crank's stub shaft in the interior door panel was all that was necessary to complete the rear doors. Kinda "chintzy" in my opinion but very workable even though the workmanship leaves quite a bit to be desired when you actually look over one of these rear doors.

The rear door inside handle for opening remained the same, but they did not enclose it with an arm rest as was the case with the front door. Instead, they used a plastic window frame type looking piece from the inside of a standard van's inside door handle to finish it off.

Because of the removal of the vent window from the rear door, the subsequent removal of some of the floor and roof to make it match resulted in the loss of considerable foot room, in my opinion, and the rear passengers get the feeling they are up against the front seat. When production of Crew Cabs was started again in the mid 80's, the new Crews of that era were built with more foot room and that has continued ever since their re-introduction. Seats were easy as the only modification to the front seat was a little upholstery added to enclose the back of the seat for appearance sake. The rear seat was simply mounted in with stationary brackets and became non-adjustable, although both seats are capable of being tilted forward to stow stuff around the gas tank in the rear and who knows what function the tilting front seat now serves?

As you can see, the only real "new" piece of sheet metal needed was the one piece longer roof. Wiring was simply "spliced" with an extension piece where required and the truck received cosmetic sheet metal finishing and painting.

Oh yes, I nearly forgot! The rear door sills are nothing more than front door sills that have been cut off, (shortened) to finish the floor to the door opening.

For those of you that are interested in just what this cost, well the full retail price for the "Crew Cab Option" in the 1970 model year was $773.00 as indicated by the Original Invoice from my 1970 Crew Cab Highboy. To us who bought these in those days, it was a "Hell of a Price!" Another reason for the low numbers of production. With "good wages" being about $120 a week, this was a fortune in those times!

As you can see, there was considerable "hand work" involved in the making of the crew cabs. The rear doors are the real item of "scarcity" and anyone finding one or a set of rear doors for any of these early crews if in good useable condition finds a part that will generally be salable at a fairly good price! Although you could make a new one from a regular door, it is a great deal of work and would be quite expensive, but NOT impossible to do if you really needed one!

When you get the opportunity, if interested, take the time to really check out the rear doors of these trucks. Hard to believe they are so simple, yet functional. The other thing I find of interest is the poor quality of workmanship you will find present in some doors when compared to each other even or to others on other trucks. It is very apparent there was good and bad rear door fabricators at the Ontario plant. Good thing the front doors were mass produced and made so well, otherwise without a good door to start with, some of the rear doors might have fell off before the trucks were sold. Oh, that also reminds me, the regular hinges from the front doors were used on the rear doors also. Hope those of you that took the time to read all this found it interesting. Didn't mean to bore you folks for quite this long!

 

I paid 1500$ for it but i has a newish 6in lift (3-4 months old) brand new front and rear brakes/bearings seals etc... it has the 400 c6 the motor was rebuilt about a year ago all new shocks. IMO i think i got a good deal considering you cant find one in my area at all

My plans are to finish rebuilding my supercab and then rebuild this crew cab and paint it the same way so the supercab and the crew cab look a like. kinda like the pictures from below

 

Just found a post on old crew cab website. It showed that the front and rear side glass are the same on the cc. Difference being where the track was placed on the bottom of the glass. This may explain why all my windows jam up in the side tracks and to be helped up and down by hand. Everything was working correctly before the painters reassembled the doors. Hope this helps someone else