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hi, does anybody have a trick to ajust and align the rear door ... i remove the door to clean it and paint the interior . when i put it back they don t fit like before... they have 3 bolt each hinges..one in the back, 2 in front each ...!
hi, does anybody have a trick to ajust and align the rear door ... i remove the door to clean it and paint the interior . when i put it back they don t fit like before... they have 3 bolt each hinges..one in the back, 2 in front each ...!
I think your SOL with this door, it's going to take a few try's to get it back and working good. You'll get it after a few try's. On your next door if it's working good before you take it off, drill 1/8" pilot holes in the hinges through the door frame. When you go Re install the door use the opposite end of the drill bit, instert it into the holes and your door should go back in exactly in the same place.
ok thanks , but too late i remove both in same time ....
they were find before.. i not paint the hinges so i see the place where the washer and bolt are but Nothing.. the door not fit correct like before....
so i thing mayby i have to do it in step like fist tight the 2 in the back first and other after or ...ect...
thanks
Place vehicle on level pavement
Bolt up door hinges loosely so the door can move
Slowly close the door you may have to pick it up and wiggle a bit
Using wedges etc set door space tolerances, up and down by readjusting the striker
Once you are happy with the placement use two magnetic levels
place them on the outside of the door perpendicular to each other
Make sure the bubbles are centered
Open the doors just enough to get to the hinges with a wrench
using milk crates etc. recreate the position until the bubbles are centered (PITA!!)
Once centered lock down bolts but do not torque or overly tighten
(Some people like to start here) Close the door, it will be a little off
use a protected levering device to push/slide/wiggle the door in place that last little bit
Carefully open the door and torque down the bolts
Not right loosen bolts slightly and reapply leverage
73 F-350 CrewCab Special on a 78 reg cab lowboy frame.
Bought this tonight, Nice guy, turns out he bought it 2yrs ago 2miles from my house. Small world. Coming home baby!!!!! So it was a 73 pre-smog 2wd, clean title and non op woo hoo. on a reg lowboy frame. It will get cleaned and removed where it will get placed on a 78 supercab longwheel base frame and a short bed added.
This bad boys donating its frame and underpinnings to the 73 Crewcab.
So I am going to need the little race track trim between the doors! anyone? Anyone?
73 F-350 CrewCab Special on a 78 reg cab lowboy frame.
Bought this tonight, Nice guy, turns out he bought it 2yrs ago 2miles from my house. Small world. Coming home baby!!!!! So it was a 73 pre-smog 2wd, clean title and non op woo hoo. on a reg lowboy frame. It will get cleaned and removed where it will get placed on a 78 supercab longwheel base frame and a short bed added.
This bad boys donating its frame and underpinnings to the 73 Crewcab.
So I am going to need the little race track trim between the doors! anyone? Anyone?
that should make a nice nice looking truck. But you're going to need to build a custom box as a short bed won't fit that wheel base.
we put all trucks side by side and looks as we are still going to have to shorten the Longbed from the SC by 6-8" to fit the CC. We knew we had to shorten the frame if we were going to do a SB SC. But now we are going to mount the CC onto it and use the one that the CC is on now which is a longbed RC and mount the 2wd SC SB onto it so the 2 keepers will be 4x4s.
Does anyone know if auto ventshade ever made a 4pc stainless window visor kit for the 73-79? I have seen pictures of them installed but can't find a part number if they ever did make them.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.