I just finished this on my 02 super cab. Locks now work perfectly. Great fix!

 

I just did this as well yesterday.

I recommend removing the outer door handle using a 11mm wrench and socket and the inner door latch with the torx socket. Do this for at least the first door and you will be able to understand how the motor unit comes out.

I found it easier to remove the latch and the outer handle on all 4 doors.

First one took almost two hours but once I figured it out it was cake.

Great mod! Well worth the trouble!

 

I found it easier to leave the handles in place , much easier. Isn't that Pinky Demon's Avatar or whatever you call it?

 

I seem to remember Alex having that one first.

But, what do I know....

Pop

 

I was thinking the same thing because this guy has a lot of posts showing.

 

Pretty sure i have had this longer than anyone else.

I remember having to explain it to several people when I first got it.


I won't argue on what the best method is to remove it, but for 30 seconds of work I enjoyed having the view from the outer handle so I could tell what the hell was going on.

I hadn't done a project quite like this before.

 

It's your Avatar, keep it. Don't let the pirated copies bother you.

 

i just wanted to say thanks to this person who thought of this it worked for me

 

I'm a pretty handy guy, But like this last guy I just don't get where you wrap the foil!
Please help!

 

Sipsy. Here you go. This was one of my posts a few pages back. The images weren't working so I went ahead and re-pasted them. It should be pretty clear. Let me know if you need anything else.

I did the passenger door on my truck and it worked great. It does just about jump out of the door now! I had a little trial and error though. I placed the tin foil on there, zip tied the casing back together and it didn't work the first time. It was almost all back together so I thought about just saying "forget about it" but I ripped it apart one more time and realized that it is more than just covering that metal piece with foil. You have to make sure that the foil touches the metal that connects to the two rod holders. I folded up a thin strip of foil and wedged it in there: See poctires below for steps once you get into the motor. The red line just symbolizes where the foil will fall behind the metal piece that you need to make sure you have connection to. I just wanted to show the real length of the foil:

It works great! Now I only have my driver door to do. Shouldn't take long at all now that I know the whole process. Thanks again everyone. Here is a pic of how I re-assembled the casing. Zip ties hold it together just fine. I figured it didnt have to be pretty:

 

Thanks alot for the info. Im diving right into it!

 

I recently ran across this:
8 - 16 VDC MOTOR | AllElectronics.com

So, for a buck and a quarter you can get the entire end piece to replace the one in your actuator.

New thermistor, new bushing, new contacts, and new motor brushes. You still end up with the overload protection the thermistor provides (if that's what you desire, especially if you have small children or dogs). The "new brushes" part may be the most important.

Note however, that the internal armature is in this motor from the reverse direction, so the complete motor can't be used intact.

Also note, that these motors are so cheap because they were mis-labeled or mis-manufactured. The indicated part number would normally have the shaft come out the other end.

But parts is parts, and these are good parts.

Pop

 

Oh wow. Thanks Pop. Wish I would have known that before I did mine. Well I only did the passenger side so I can still use these for the drivers side if I want.

 

I would get rid of those pesky thermisters. Also; I just crammed some tin foil in those contacts a year ago and it works great. Another tip; drill a small hole in the plastic behind the 2 little tabs and just bend them enough to remove the bell. One more; use tie wire to secure the cover. One more; just open the case by drilling just the 2 rivets by the motor and drop it out like a clam.

 

Yes, the thermistors will come back to re-visit you, the same way the originals did, but they DO provide motor burn-out protection in the circumstances I cited.

Pop