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Power Door Locks FIXED!!!!

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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 02:20 PM
  #736  
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Hey guys my locks in my truck are weak like this and will go after a few times of hitting the button. I decided to pull the back doors apart and try the foil fix yesterday but it didnt go to good. I got the first one off and did it, the lock still seems kind of weak but it locks and unlocks so I figured it was good, the next door I went to I pulled apart and did the foil and when I put it together it was weak and still wouldnt move the lock, I took it back out and tried to re wrap it in foil. After doing this the motor doesnt move at all. I had to stop for last night and I am going to look into it more today, any hints or anyone had this before?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 04:01 PM
  #737  
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Door lock repair

Same thing happened to me. Make sure when you put the motor back together you do not damage the tiny brushes on the end of the motor. You have to put them back together carefully.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 08:50 PM
  #738  
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Originally Posted by F250 SD
Same thing happened to me. Make sure when you put the motor back together you do not damage the tiny brushes on the end of the motor. You have to put them back together carefully.
There is an easy and safe way to install those brushes and it it by using a paper clip in the supplied holes(s), ........can't remember exactly how I did it.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 08:53 PM
  #739  
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Originally Posted by Jordan72
Hey guys my locks in my truck are weak like this and will go after a few times of hitting the button. I decided to pull the back doors apart and try the foil fix yesterday but it didnt go to good. I got the first one off and did it, the lock still seems kind of weak but it locks and unlocks so I figured it was good, the next door I went to I pulled apart and did the foil and when I put it together it was weak and still wouldnt move the lock, I took it back out and tried to re wrap it in foil. After doing this the motor doesnt move at all. I had to stop for last night and I am going to look into it more today, any hints or anyone had this before?
There are lots of directions in here. When you get done they should open/close with a solid whack!!
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 03:23 PM
  #740  
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well I read through all the posts hoping someone would have the same problem im having... but I didnt find anything.

I did the foil wrap to cure my locks that would hardly move at all, it made a big difference and helped them but they dont snap and lock like everyone says. Could it be my foil wrapping skills or is it just my motor being weak? Has anyone else had this problem?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 08:01 AM
  #741  
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I did this fix a year or so ago, and my locks snap up and down fast. Just did the foil wrap fix. Put the actuators back together with zip ties. Was easy. I just wonder if you have some kind of voltage problem at your doors. Might want to test what you've got coming in. And check grounds.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 05:48 PM
  #742  
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This is exactly what I have been looking for. I've read all the pages of this thread, now to find time to do it. Only my drivers door works, some of the time, so I have to do all 4 doors in my crew.

From the looks of the photos, you can't just replace this (easily) with a generic actuator that can be bought for $9.99...(which was my plan...)
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 01:48 PM
  #743  
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Key not working either

I've been reading through this thread and have another question. I have been having PDL issues on and off for a while. Sometimes my remote fob doesn't work to unlock the doors. In the past when that happened, I could still unlock the passenger side door with my key. The truck would start and they remote would work again. Today, the neither the key or the remote will work. I also tried my spare set of keys and can't get either lock to open. I am now locked out of my truck! Anyone know if the PDL problem would also result in the key not working either????
 
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 03:03 PM
  #744  
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I would start by changing the fob battery (assuming it can be done). I would assume the PDlocks could freeze up. I would make sure they are all working well next even if you have to do the thermistor bypass trick. I hear new FOB's are expensive. You might have to hire a pop-a-lock mobile guy for now.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 07:22 PM
  #745  
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Thanks , Kalsc!!
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 07:29 AM
  #746  
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For what it's worth, I got 2 new fobs free from the a used car salesman at the Ford dealership. Turns out they all have 10 or 20 in their drawers to replace missing ones on used cars that come in. If you're friendly with any sales people it might not hurt to ask!
 
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 04:26 PM
  #747  
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I know there are a million pages and this will prolly get buried too but I did it just a little different.

I did pull out the mysterious magical little piece of thermal metal from the top of the motors but I left them out. I filled the gap in the circuit with solder. It isn't a big gap and even though almost everyone has had good success with foil, I just wanted something with a little better contact than foil. And as a bonus, I used the already hot soldering iron to "weld" the little plastic tabs back together on the housing. Good luck.

Chad
 
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 05:49 PM
  #748  
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Originally Posted by Jordan72
well I read through all the posts hoping someone would have the same problem im having... but I didnt find anything.

I did the foil wrap to cure my locks that would hardly move at all, it made a big difference and helped them but they dont snap and lock like everyone says. Could it be my foil wrapping skills or is it just my motor being weak? Has anyone else had this problem?
I did mine about 2 months ago (that's how I found FTE, looking for a fix. Makes me glad they were broken).

They worked ok but still seemed intermittent from the drivers door. I pulled the lock switch out of the drivers door, pried it open and sprayed it out with electrical contact cleaner. No more problems with intermit.

After a week I noticed 3 of them worked great but one of the back doors was a little weak. Procrastinated a while then popped it out 2 days ago and opened it up to find that the foil had torn when I put it in and it wasn't getting good contact. Re-wrapped and it's fine now.

My truck started life in Texas hauling horses and still has a ton of Texas dust in it. It also has 285,000 miles on it. I've found several items that were easily fixed just by cleaning electrical contacts.

Hope this helps you.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2011 | 07:52 PM
  #749  
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Replacing the thermistor with a penny cut to size, with aviation tin snips, works very-well, too.

Pop
 
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 07:26 AM
  #750  
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Isn't that defacing government property?
 
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