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not sure where it is on here, just look though and you will see it. (around 8 pages i think) it will be a long thread so it not hard to find. but looking you we see some more good things, i drilled mine and used small self tapping screws when i put it back together the 2ed time. One of my wire ties didn"t hold so it was the 2ed time and its still holding great.
Just finished doing this to all 4 actuators on my 1999 crew cab. Worked like a charm! the only thing I did differently was use 1/4" copper tubing the same length as the thermosister and squashed flat. Thanks!
well i noted the 20 and 66. but 88 isn't relevant. And I dont know why, but the pictures are not shoing up for me. I only have internet access at work so maybe its a block or something. can someone maybe copy and paste the postings with the directions and pictures into a word doc, save it and email it to me? anyone? just say so and I'll pm my email. Thanks.
well i noted the 20 and 66. but 88 isn't relevant. And I dont know why, but the pictures are not shoing up for me. I only have internet access at work so maybe its a block or something. can someone maybe copy and paste the postings with the directions and pictures into a word doc, save it and email it to me? anyone? just say so and I'll pm my email. Thanks.
Sorry, it was post #80 not #88. I copied those pictures into word. PM you email and I'll send it over.Zane
The pics are kind of spread out and so are the techniques so doing an advanced search should locate enough info to do the job. (try different keywords).
The pics are kind of spread out and so are the techniques so doing an advanced search should locate enough info to do the job. (try different keywords).
I did not come up with the fix just followed it and added the pics but thanks for all the kind words. The pics were reloaded and working as of today.
I did the passenger door on my truck and it worked great. It does just about jump out of the door now! I had a little trial and error though. I placed the tin foil on there, zip tied the casing back together and it didn't work the first time. It was almost all back together so I thought about just saying "forget about it" but I ripped it apart one more time and realized that it is more than just covering that metal piece with foil. You have to make sure that the foil touches the metal that connects to the two rod holders. I folded up a thin strip of foil and wedged it in there: See poctires below for steps once you get into the motor. The red line just symbolizes where the foil will fall behind the metal piece that you need to make sure you have connection to. I just wanted to show the real length of the foil:
It works great! Now I only have my driver door to do. Shouldn't take long at all now that I know the whole process. Thanks again everyone. Here is a pic of how I re-assembled the casing. Zip ties hold it together just fine. I figured it didnt have to be pretty:
I just drilled the plastic rivets on the motor end and dropped the motor out, then I used rebar tie wire through holes and twisted the ends. Very strong and minimal.
I fixed the front doors, worked great for a while. unfortunatly thats where my dog puts her paws when I get out of the truck......yah, they dont work anymore.
Oh dang... that sucks. I'm sorry. Maybe you should put clear plastic hinged covers over the top of the button like a missle launch switch. Paint the button red just to be safe. The case should keep your dog off of it ha.