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Just wondering, has anyone had to go back and do this again to their door locks? I did this about 4 yrs ago and it worked flawlessly until about 6 months ago. I have one door that started acting up about that time, sometimes it would work, sometimes not. Now it does not work at all. Not with the key fob or the switch on the door. Thinking I may have to do this again and was wondering if anyone else had similar issues.
Never heard of that happening. Maybe the foil worked its way out after all that time or your motors are just gettin worn out. Anybody lean on your buttons for an extended period of time? That'll make them quit really fast after this mod.
I went to Ford for CPS recall while there I asked them what it would cost to fix door lock. They quoted a price of around $350.00. I was shocked. I then ordered part from partsguy. It cost around 30 bucks. I took door panel off and son in law installed part in under 20 minutes. It was not as cheap as foil but way better than dealer.
This is the same "problem", caused by the protection thermistor, that every manufacturer has a problem with, sooner or later. This little motor is used extensively in the auto industry.
It's just the price you pay for having the convenience of electric door locks with protection from burning up electric motors.
So, there's not going to be a Ford-paid fix in your future. Sorry.
2000 Expo, right rear, I attempted this fix today, but couldn't get the hooked end of the latch out. Is there an easy method of removal of the latch. I also tried to separate the pinched metal end where it is attached to the plastic with a screwdriver and was going to leave the hooked end of the latch in, but that didn't work either. What is the secret to getting these hooked ends out?
not sure of what you have but mine rod just pulled out of the plastic holder. you did take all the screws out of the door so all of the door latch will come out as one, not just the unlocking plastic motor part but with the metal latch for the door. You should have 3 rods and a power wire some have 2 power wires on them. (Front door) Then you have 3 screws on the outside edge latch of door to take off. Then the latch sould come out of the door for repair. Mine was a 01 F-350 front doors had 2 wires connetions front, back doors had 1. The door locking and door lock unit all come out of the inside of the door as one part. You have a rod on the outside door handle, one on the key lock, one on the inside door handle, that is 3 rods you need to take off. The 3 screws on the edge of your door, then all the latch should come out as one unit. When this is done you can start your repairs on the door.
I am sure it is the actuators, but just in case, I have a new to me, 2003 F250 KR, when I picked it up I am told BTW just noticed the doors don't lock!!!! He said he never used the locks, I hear a click from under the dash when the door lock switches are pushed, no movement at all on all four door locks, same click when the remote is used? could it be the relay? or should I just take a door panel off and start?
yes just do the fix of the door actuators and have your door locks working again. it is a cheep fix just takes some of your time. that is why you hear a click the resistor has opened up and the power is not going to the motor.
This is an interesting fix, one I believe I will need to consider. I browsed the replies here but did not see anything related to my more immediate problem.
My locks will just randomly lock or unlock themselves. Middle of the night or a big box parking lot it's not a good thing. Is this related to or seperate from the fix stated in this thread?
If so, you likely have a windshield leak that is allowing water to corrode your GEM (Generic Electronics Module), which is co-located with the under-dash fuse panel.
The GEM has the "clicker" receiver and driver electronics that drive the lock/unlock relays that are behind your radio up on the firewall. For a photo of the relay location, see: http://springerpop.net/F350/images/ParkLtRelay.jpg
I have an 03 e250. I'm not 100 % sure, but I believe the device you refer to is located behind the drivers seat someplace. I relocated mine (as harness length would permit) to a Masonite panel similar to all the other ones that I fit and installed in the sub body window cutouts. I did this to prevent "outy" dents from stuff shifting inside the vehicle. I can hear this device actuate or click when I hit the locks.
I can come out in the morning and my truck is unlocked. Fortunately, I live in a nice neighborhood. It's other times that this happens that concern me.
I don't think I have any leaks. Truck doesn't stink or display symptoms of storing water under the mat or anything.
Interesting the main difference I noticed was my housing was secured with torx screws, clearly factory? But any way did the wrap, lock now unlocks but does not lock, might try another door, will keep you posted. Any thoughts? Also just noticed the actuators sold on Ebay appear to be secured with torx screws, maybe it was replaced by previous owner? I have no way of knowing.
Interesting the main difference I noticed was my housing was secured with torx screws, clearly factory? But any way did the wrap, lock now unlocks but does not lock, might try another door, will keep you posted. Any thoughts? Also just noticed the actuators sold on Ebay appear to be secured with torx screws, maybe it was replaced by previous owner? I have no way of knowing.
I tried some ebay units one time but they lacked the feature that lets you work them manually ( there was no slack in the lever like the stock ones), I sent them back. The best setup is the stock ones with the "fix" done to them.