If the button were held down too long it will burn out the motors with the fix in place. The thermistor would heat up and become a current limiter to protect the motor. Removal or bypass of the thermistor is ok provided you don't hold the button down continuously. However apparently your dog didn't read the instructions in all of the post. Burnt motors mean NEW lock actuators.

 

I would keep the windows up 2 inches when the dog comes out.

 

I'll have my dog re read the thread,but I guess its time for new actuators!
I like the idea of making covers that look like missle launch buttons LOL

 

I wouldn't say what I saw in those actuators was a "thermistor" - more of a resistor if anything. One could find the fuse for the locks, and put in a slow-blow self-resetting circuit breaker, if there isn't one there already. Using an AMP meter, pull the fuse to the locks, and check the amperage between the two terminals when you actuate and hold the lock button. Pick a circuit breaker that is just UNDER the amperage measured, and if you hold the button too long, the breaker will blow and reset after a certain amount of time. Do it again and again, and the breaker gets hot and starts blowing faster and faster until it cools off. This will measure the amperage required to lock ALL the locks, which is what that dog sounds like it's doing It won't do much for the single-unlock from the key-fob/keypad, which isn't so bad anyway because it's a momentary thing.


Cooper Bussmann ® - Blade Fuses and Accessories

Look at the UCB ATC style ones somewhere down near the bottom of the page.

If there is just a fuse for the locks, and no existing circuit breaker, and it looks like on my '01 there is only a single big 30A fuse JUST FOR the door locks, it might be safer to wire the breaker in AFTER the fuse, just in case the breaker fails and there is a dead short somewhere. It could be done with two spade connectors, two fuse holders, and wiring them in series (spade->fuse holder for circuit breaker->fuse folder for 30AMP fuse->spade) and plugging that assembly in in place of the fuse itself.

 

haha ya me too. Let me know how it works out. I might just do it myself after I see the results

Also, Someone was saying that they installed keyless entry. How much do they cost ? And is it easy to install? Any links for it (for the product and/or the install) ?

 

This is a really good idea.

My 1988 F150 has something similar in it for the electric brake controller. I don't tow with that truck anymore so maybe I'll pull the self-resetting breaker out and test this. But I guess I have to train my border collie to stand on the lock button to test it.

 

I'll bet that circuit breaker is at least 30 amps Way too much to keep the lock actuators from burning out. I'm thinking less than 10 amps, like 6, but who knows. And of course, it'll be higher for a crewcab than for a regular/supercab.

 

I would not hold the button down after bypassing the little square block what ever you call it for it will burn out the motor.

 

Thermal resistor= thermister. I think the answer is to experiment with lightweight fuses until you come up with the best one for your situation. I don't have that problem because I am pretty much by myself. Incidentally; that little wafer is even sensitive to ambient heat to the point were they are more sluggish on hot days or when that side is facing the sun. I have one door left to do that works fine on cold days only.

 

Thanks for posting how to fix door locks. I was scearching the web the other day on how to replace the selonoids. I ran across the thread and decided to try it. A friend of mine came by about the time I got the frist on out( all four, F350 crew) was not working. He thought we should get new ones, which cost a total of $180 at the ford dealer. I said lets try it, and it is a great fix. He was so impressed he stayed and helped with the other 3 doors. free fix and free labor, can,t beat that!!

 

That's just the beginning of what you can learn here.

Stick around....

Pop

 

 

Thermister = variable resistor with variations in tempereature. At the current passes through the resistor I2*R will determine the heat generation. The longer the button is held or motor load causes the thermistor temp to rise and increase resistance within it's operating peramaters. By passing / removing (I have done this also) and holding the button will not have the protection to limit the current/heat in the motor and cause the motor to fail. Solution.... after this mod just don't hold the button down.

 

Would wd/40 work for this? Ever since i did the mod when i go to unlock the drivers door the door will unlock but the door wont open?? i have to turn the key several times to get the door to open,even though the know goes up everytime? Any ideas?

 

Your linkage is messed up. take the door apart and find out which peice is not attached right. On my truck, I had a problem keeping the little plastic snap in bushings from falling off the rod and falling into the door.