It shouldn't.

Pop

 

I like that; I am 1 that prides myself on what I didn't spend which is almost nothing.

 

I was told my pictures were not working so I fixed them. In any case I added a full set to a second host here.

Funny this came up now as I just had to fix my passenger side door lock. My truck did not come with a keyless entry control. I got a remote entry and installed it, it is a Ford part but not factory. It acted up the other day and when I started the truck the the doors unlocked and locked over and over. I turned it off and it was fine but then a few days later the same thing happened and it burned out the motor on the right side.

I had an extra driver side motor so I switched the cap around and used that, also fixed the keyless enry. So it can happen, burning out the motor, but still better then buying a new one. After all it worked for several years with out a problem.

Pics for fixing the locks:

refer here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...sw#post3737718

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...sw#post3979374

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...sw#post3994987

 

Absolutely beautiful!!! I have had problems with every door except the drivers door on my 99 F250. I did the $.01 fix on mine and it works great! It took me about 45 minutes to do. I did make a small change to the procedure that worked really well. I trimmed off the tops only of the plastic rivets and then pried open the case. After replacing the little metal square with the "special" copper, I closed the cover and did something a little different to secure it... I took a 16 penny nail and heated the head to red hot with my mapp gas torch; then pushed it down onto the original "spot welds". It fused the case back together perfectly. So far It is super secure and my door locks work again. WOOHOO!!! Thanks for the help.

 

Just finished doing the other doors and all are working great.....

 

This one definately goes on my list of things to do. Right after I get the truck to start again!!

 

well, my shift commander and i fixed both my doors (extended cab F250 with RKE), but MAN, were the three torqs bolts that hold the lock to the door a PAIN to get out! we literally spent more time, energy, and tools on getting those six PIAs out than in doing the rest, although getting everything actually out of the door was easier said than done. honestly, although some of it's delicate, the easiest part was actually fixing the inside of the motor itself. it seemed overwhelming at first, but really wasn't that bad in the long run. after THE FIX was made on the passenger door, i couldn't wait to get it back together and get started on the driver's door.
however, we changed it up a little and made it a little easier/quicker to get back together (and if any of this is a repeat from another page, i'll apologize in advance - i havent read all 32 pages of the thread). also, i stole pics from page 2 from ssjrsw (don't be pissed at me man) because we didn't think to take any pics of the work we did until after we were done and critiquing ourselves. anyway, here's what we did differently...

(it won't let me load a pic, so you'll have to just click on the links if you wanna see 'em)
instead of gluing the housing back together, we drilled two holes and put some small stainless screws in from the back (that's the red dots in this picture)
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - DFD FF 2511's Album: my album - Picture

and then taped the bottom after we got it back together (the blue dots are the screws coming through, and the red is the electrical tape around the bottom... we didn't even mess with any kinda glue)
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - DFD FF 2511's Album: my album - Picture

this worked well for us, the housing was STOUT, and we were comfortable that it woudln't be problem in the future...

NOW, the only other thing was the aforementioned door screws. i guess part of the upstate NY corrosion that ate out my oil pan, also all-but welded the friggin' screws in the door. once i sold my soul just to get them out, they were replaced with simple stainless hex bolts from the auto parts store - M6-1 x 12mm long (don't get them any longer, because they will go too far into the lock/latch housing and catch on the inside of the lock - - makes it very difficult to operate door handle, and lock)

other than that, this is one of the best repairs that has been made to the truck... SOOOOO GLAD to have my power locks back!

 

we also found out that the light bulb socket for the door panel courtesy lights were already wired for the truck and just hanging freely inside the door, so i simply put two 194 bulbs in the sockets, and voila, panel lights. the only thing now is to get factory clear/red lenses to replace the all red reflectors that my truck came with. and from what i'm reading, pretty much every 7.3 SD had the sockets pre-wired, they stopped wiring for them sometime around the 6.0 coming out. and the P/N for the clear/red lenses is 1C3Z13731AA (and i'm getting mine from ftepartsguy.com).

 

I started on my drivers door the other day and ran into problems with the three screws. Someone had already buggered the heads and a #25 wouldn't grab and the #30 was a little too big. I got them out about 1/8 inch and they just froze up. I was able to get them to snug back up after a small fight. Any ideas on getting them out would be appreciated.

Fred

 

Aero Kroil, PB Blaster, or the like may help a lot. If you can get them back out that 1/8", can you hit them with some more penetrating oil and grip the head with a small pair of Vise-Grips?

Pop

 

left handed drill bit is the easiest for getting things out like that, if that doesn't work out you're probably up to drilling it out and retapping. Before you drill spray in some liquid wrench and tap it a little, it will help loosen it up
Good luck!

 

Thanks Pop!!!

Fred

 

Three out of my four doors are complete now! I ran out of time to finish the third tonight.
This fix makes the door lock actuators hit hard! Now my remote keyless works!
This is the first vehicle I've ever owned with a remote, I have to say I like it!
I'll get the drivers rear door tomorrow. 1st door was about 1:20 the last one was 25 minutes, I'm trying to see if I can do the 4th any faster.

I also was able to take my soldering gun and melt the mushroomed heads back into the other piece of the plastic casing, It holds very well. I'll see how it holds up. If I ever have a problem I'll simply put a few screws through them.
Thanks for the fix!

Now if I can just find one for slow windows.

CrazyKen

 

I posted way back when about my bolt problem. When I was doing my door, my body shop neighbor came over as I was trying to get the bolts out. He said they are locktited in. So a little heat from the propane torch and they came right out. Be-careful on the heat. I held it too long on one bolt and blistered the paint.

 

Mine are fixed too!!!

Except one, the right rear passenger door, that door look seemed to be the only odd ball and I ended up breaking it. So I'll just get a new one off of ebay...

Other than that, my locks are fixed and perform better than new!