THANKS ALL !!!!!!! The wire ties didn't work well, so i took them all off again, drilled the plastic and metal rivet out. Put in 6 32 screws to hold it together and that is working find know. It is nice to have door locks again........

 

I didn't have any kind of fancy clock-repair tools or tools small & sturdy enough to bend back the tiny motor tabs once I got the housing on my workbench, so I ended up using the pointed end of a 1/2" flat wood drill bit. Not the best use for one of those bits, but, it was handy, pointed, hardened and sharp. It did the trick after a few pry attempts. It is important to take note of how the small electric motor is sitting in the plastic housing when you first open the housing up. One thing that helped me was that I noticed some writing/numbers on the top of the motor. You'll see what I mean when you get in there. When you take the black plastic housing apart, you'll see the small motor laying in there along w/ a few gears. If you don't see any identifiable markings on that motor, I'd suggest making some mark on it saying "top" before you take it out. Cause if you put it back together backwards, that specific door will work in reverse of the others.

Also, in order to put the black plastic housing back together, I simply used 3 or 4 electrical zip ties. I had to use two together in a couple places to reach all the way around the housing - then obviously cut off the spare.

One thing that was painfully obvious afterward, but, I was apprehensive about was taking the power and control cable loose from the door. Both of these have a couple plastic snaps that hold them in place inside the body of the door. I was reluctant to un-snap those fearing that I wouldn't get things back together the same later - but those must be taken loose, otherwise you won't get the assembly out of the door in order to unhook the cables. If you're more of a newbie like I, don't fear - and just carefully un-snap them. They go back just fine after.

I too have put up with the reach-over for two years now, but, I have a crew cab, so that makes it kind of a pain sometimes. I'm too cheap to spend the bucks to have someone else fix them - and with all 3 doors 'cept the driver having the issue - there was no way. I've driven around for a whole day now and this fix so far seems solid and works like a champ - unbelievable. I'll be tackling the rear two doors this afternoon - woohoo!

Good luck with yours!

 

5 pints of sweat,
2.5 six packs of beer,
3 hours of my time,
one roast beef sandwich,
$1.63 worth of screws,
2 skinned knuckles,
38 cuss words, (4 really bad ones),
and *POOF*......door locks!!

I'm a happy happy man!

 

Nice - congrats!

 

THAT was funny!

Thanks for a good chuckle!

Pop

 

Whoever figured this out deserves an award. I feel like I will go to extremes to figure things out but they went way past me. I just got done doing this fix to my passenger side lock which as we as all know is 8 feet away in a superduty and it worked perfect. The only think I did different was leave the little black plastic post when re-assembling and drilled a small hole in the center and screwed the case back together with 1/4" hex heads. Thanks to whoever figured this one out

 

YES that is what i did, just used 8/32 screws and put 1 nut on the back side. 1 of my wire ties came loose and had to do it again, used screws the secend time not going to do it a 3rd time. Drilled it where the arm moves then sanded it flat at the nut, that way it wont come loose again. Some of the plastic stubs broke off so i didn't want to use sheet metal screws. driled down to good solid plastic to theard my screws to.

 

Great post 01 excursion left rear door and hatch same symptoms going to give it a try. Thanks.

 

I drilled the plastic rivets all the way through,used rebar tie wire, twisted the ends with pliers, and cut the excess off. Thay have all been fine for a year, and they sure beat the lazy action of the ones with the thermisters still in them. Whhaaack

 

that is great, i drill all the way through also and used screws. the 1st time i used wire ties and one failed to hold it tight. so i used screws and they all are working great now.

 

I stumbled across this thread while looking for aftermarket actuators for my 02 F250. So I tried the fix, figured what could it hurt to try? The actuators work better than new!! Thanks for the amazing solution to an annoying problem! I just wish I could find as good a forum as this one that relates to Johnson Outboards! Thanks again guys!!!

 

I wish I could find one of this caliber for my wife's Pilot, too.

In the meantime, I'm real thankful for what we have for our trucks. A real goldmine of information.

And a brotherhood.

Pop

 

Yes, FTE is the BEST. Major goldmine.Pop, I know it's not exactly what you wanted but check out odyclub.com it's a forum for Honda Odyssey owners but you might find some related info for the Pilot. HTH

 

I'm a member of Odyclub already, as I also have a '96 Odyssey. Though the drivetrain for the late-models is almost identical to the Pilot's, and they are somewhat helpful, there is no real comparison! No technical expertise, and there's a "ricer" mentality there. Most of them have never even seen a wrench, except for a "lug wrench".

I know, I know, can I say HI-JACK??

Hi, Jack!

We now return you to the regularly-scheduled chatter about Ford Trucks!

Pop

 

What page is the Step by step DIY guide with pictures on? Theres a lot of pages on this thread ha