its in fuse boxs#3or 4

 

Just did my driver's side door and it works great ! Took about 45 min. but would have been less time had I all the tools I needed in front of me instead of hunting for them ...

Anyways, thanks for the post...I doubt I could have done it without the pics !

 

Did both of mine yesterday. I drilled out the two metal rivets, just so I had the assembly completely open. I used two short (3/8"?) 6/32 machine screws with nuts to replace the rivets, works like a charm. Used a soldering iron to melt the plastic rivets again, and used a tie-wrap on the motor end just to make sure it wouldn't come apart.

I used thick copper foil to wrap the resistor.

Both sides work GREAT!

Kudos to all who contributed such great information to this thread

 

Can someone tell me how to remobe the back door window trim panel for access to the door lock actuator? on a 2000 excursion. not the rea doors but the very back door. please post pics if possible. i dont want to break the window trim and if it has those plastic rivets, it feels like if i pull any harder ill break the panel. im having the same problem as in this thread. i can unlock the back door with the remote, but i have to lock it everytime with the key as it wont lock with the remote. thanks, you can also PM me. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

That is called the rear hatch door and your should be able to pull the trim off on the INSIDE by hand.

 

I did the two front today.The wrok great, but what a p.i.t.a......I must have bent the window track on the pass door the window moves real slow now??????
I'll do the rears some other day. I dread fixing the window, cant figure what I did wrong

 

try using wd40 i did same thing

 

Cool, I'll give it a try. I was about to take the track out of one of my extra doors, and tear into it again.

 

The track is adjustable, in terms of laterally, away from the edge of the window.

Sounds like you might have basically pinched the glass, lengthwise.

 

I tried to adjust it away, (track towards the latch) but it still has a slow spot. I may have bent it towards the front of the door (hinge side) too far. I'll give it another look see.
Thanks

 

In response to my own question. Yes, and thanks exv10, i was able to remove the rear hatch door trim, and thanks to all te info in this thread i was able to fix the actuator. I did notice the plastic that holds the trim in place was looking like it would crack if i pulled any harder. I stuck a flathead screw driver into the flat space behind the plastic mounts and slowly pryed it out instead of just pulling the trim. this allowed me to put the force and stress on the thicker plastic insert instead of bending the trim around it. after that it was a breeze. slipped a smaller flat head into the plastic tab holding the actuator onto the mount and slid it out. removed the power cable, and viola. Then i followed all the steps here, used aluminum foil, and i used bailing wire and zip ties incase it didnt work. but it did, also i did a nice enough job with the wire and ties, i decided to leave it. The more professional jobs listed here would have taken more time. Ill see how long this lasts and depending on that i may make it a more professional finish. either way it looks fine, works great, and saved me a ton of money. Im reallly happy i found all this info here and thanks to everyone who contributed. i really appreciate it!

 

That area in there really gets dirty. I spent about a half hour in there just scraping with a long screwdriver and applying WD40. I did 4 of my 5 locks and just crammed tin foil in the contacts. They work great but now the 5th one is going out. It is so sensitive to heat it actually works better on colder days.

 

Just wanted to let you guys know I did the fix last night. Works awesome!!

Now Im going to fix my Dads Crew cab and my friends extended cab this week!!

Thanks!

 

WOW, my two front doors took me a few frustrating hours. I still trying to motivate myself to do the rear ones. Now my neighbor wants his crewcab done.

 

The first door took me about an hour just to get the lock out. The second door from start to back together was all of 30 min. I bet I could do it faster, one of the latch rods got me screwed up. Took me like 10 mins before I just said screw it and took the door handle off. On the first door I also changed the lock tumbler thing, it was seized.