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No need to take the handle off. Make use of a long screwdriver, little flashlight, long needlenose, and a little mirror on a long handle. Just use tin foil in the contact instead of penny, drill a little hole next to the motor cap tab before you pry on it, just drill 2 rivets on act and drop the motor out like a clam, use tie-wire to secure the case in the 2 holes.
No need to take the handle off. Make use of a long screwdriver, little flashlight, long needlenose, and a little mirror on a long handle. Just use tin foil in the contact instead of penny, drill a little hole next to the motor cap tab before you pry on it, just drill 2 rivets on act and drop the motor out like a clam, use tie-wire to secure the case in the 2 holes.
Yeah I wrapped the thermal resistor in tinfoil. I dont have a long needle nose but I will get some for the next few jobs. Hmm, I pulled the whole thing apart. I might just use zip ties or wire next time instead of screws. Drill some holes and it would be much quicker. Problem with drilling the rivets is that they spin! I ended up breaking one of the tabs off in the drill press.
Man, you guys are getting me motivated to get out there and get mine fixed! I can't wait 'cause it is getting really old reaching around and making sure all four doors are locked every time I get out at the store.
I just hope the rears are easier than the fronts.
What are you guys using to bend the tabs on the motors, I used a little pick, and broke both tabs off both motors. I ended up gluing them back together.
I just hope the rears are easier than the fronts.
What are you guys using to bend the tabs on the motors, I used a little pick, and broke both tabs off both motors. I ended up gluing them back together.
Yeah that is a PITA. I used a set of Needle nose pliers. the tip was a little too big but I got it done. Getting back together wasnt easy either. Glue is a good option, theres not a lot of force pushing that casing apart. Plus the molded actuator casing keeps everything in place including both halfs of the motor.
I just hope the rears are easier than the fronts.
What are you guys using to bend the tabs on the motors, I used a little pick, and broke both tabs off both motors. I ended up gluing them back together.
Read my post above guys. Drill a little hole next to the tab and it will bend right out with the tip of a spade bit etc. Don't bend the tabs anymore than you need to.
I just hope the rears are easier than the fronts.
What are you guys using to bend the tabs on the motors, I used a little pick, and broke both tabs off both motors. I ended up gluing them back together.
The rears are harder than the front because of the longer linkage to the manual black lock thingy, unless you only take the actuator out and not the locking mechanism, which is what I did on the rears.
Just did this on three doors (right front will wait). On the left front I removed the latch and actuator together from the door. On the two rear doors I just removed the actuator leaving the latch in place, which was much easier and quicker. Once on the bench, I replaced the flat metal piece in the motors with all aluminum foil between the contact points. I then cut off three of the plastic "rivets", drilled through them and screwed the case halves back together. All this went quicker because my bro-in-law did 1/2 the work.
One of the problems with unlatching the outside door handle rod on the latch is that it might go back in sloppy.
I did a set of doors in an hour the other day.
Dont remove the cable from the inside latch, just pull the assembly to the opening and take the actuator off. I dont know how you would get the actuator off inside the door without removing the latch.. whats the trick??
I dont know how you would get the actuator off inside the door without removing the latch.. whats the trick??
It's tough to explain without pics, but you have to use a 90 degree bent pick or screwdriver to lift the plastic tab on the plastic actuator housing. It will then slide off the latch mechanism. My bro-in-law is an automotive electric tech and showed me that trick. He literally had one out and in my hand in less than 2 minutes!
It's tough to explain without pics, but you have to use a 90 degree bent pick or screwdriver to lift the plastic tab on the plastic actuator housing. It will then slide off the latch mechanism. My bro-in-law is an automotive electric tech and showed me that trick. He literally had one out and in my hand in less than 2 minutes!
Nice I will give it a try I have 4 more to do. I can 90deg a pick. I had the last ones I did out in about 5. But there's a lot more stuff to do that way.
I did my front doors over the weekend. It's a PITA but well worth it. Gonna finish the back two tonight. I followed the drill-through-and-zip-tie method. Fast and easy.
The only thing I would add to what has already been said here is that you should be careful when you pull the cap off the motor. There is this little silver washer that goes on the axle. On one...it came off and I just had to be careful to center it over that little hole under the brushes before I re-inserted the the axle between the brushes. On the other...the washer stayed on the axle and I had trouble putting it back together until I pulled it off and placed it under the brushes centered over the hole. (I know...need a picture). Maybe I'll take pics when I do the back doors.
I don't know how some people who posted here could have installed anything backwards and ended up with reverse-operating locks on one door. Everything I touched could only be re-assembled in the same orientation. Maybe there are different designs out there?
Anyway...wow I missed my power door locks. No more yoga move across the cab to let my passengers in! woot?!
I don't know how some people who posted here could have installed anything backwards and ended up with reverse-operating locks on one door. Everything I touched could only be re-assembled in the same orientation.
I also found that everything was a one-way assembly. Congrats on the fix!