Thet usually gaurantee them and motors are rarely the problem. Only 1 wrecking yard there?

 

Read where one guy stripped his Torx head: it's a size 27.

As for light: I used a mini-mag light hangining in one of the holes (shining inside frame...duh) to see the clips and stuff inside.

Removal: I see why it takes an hour on the first lock. TRUST and FAITH that you are doing the right thing. Getting the clips and snapping them loose is a TRUST thing and FAITH it won't break. I should get some pictures because I have the rear doors to do next. Someone should post pics of the clips and how they release. That would be a huge help.

Pretty simple with light hanging inside to see and KNOWING what clips and how to un-snap 'em.

Good thread. But someone should start one or finalize one with pics and a summary of all these pages!

Wahooooo woot woot I GOT MY DOOR LOCKS BACK!

 

I will pretty soon.

 

I did my drivers side door today, it is quite the pita unhooking all that stuff the first time around. The actual mod is the easiest part. Started to rain on me when I was hooking everything backup, so that made it even more of a pita.

My other 3 doors are intermittent, so I will do those later.

Thanks to all who posted in this thread and made it easy.

 

Going to be doing this to my 2000 F-250 Super Duty tomorrow. Hopefully its as easy for me as it was for the rest of you. Thanks for the post

 

Not bad if you are a little mech inclined.

 

On this 99 F350 turbo deisel super duty crew cab I just picked up....The guy hated the fact that the door lockls didnt work and he let me steal this beast for cents on the dollar

I can not tell you all how frustrating inoperable door locks are. I also found this same fix as the first poster here did. I also can not recall exactly the url but it had color photos too.

Any ways I went into the fix wide eyed and amazed at how really very simple it was to do. I was not afraid to take a razor knife to the plastic rivet heads because i knew from the start that 2 zip ties an 2 small aluminum rivets were all I needed to properly close up the actuator case once the tiny motor was opened and the thermal plate was wrapped in a peice of aluminum foil. I believe these thermal jobbys are bimetal with a silcon sandwich or something. But whatever..."ford and their better ideas" to protect us from ourselves eh?? My reasoning is if the repair doesnt work...I'll have to spend $120-$160 for 4 new actuators so why not try the repair.

Well these locks now bang open/shut with gusto like no new door locks ever did! Yay!

And the zip ties were quick and super effective. They are more than enuff to last for years I figure. No way will they strech and 2 small pop rivets in the original position further reinforce the closure.

While i was at it. I throroughly rinsed/cleansed the entire lacth system and door ajar sensors. (cool how those little buggers release too.) and they were caked in crap...no wonder they get sticky. I freed up the door lock key cylinders too with some pbr rust buster...the two front doors and the tailgate were all froze...

I lubed everything up with WD-40 and then further coated with some hi-perf silicone lube and reaasembled all and cleaned the door panels all up inside and out and cleaned inside the door by the drain holes and buttoned her all up. Total time invested? 4.5 hours. Total cost? 4 beers and a few zip ties and pop rivets and a few squirts of degreaser and lube.

This fix works like a charm man!

Thanks again

 

Best free fix I have ever made. I owe it all to you guys. My lock has been like this since I bought the truck. It sounded like a gear was striped so when I found this fix I ignored it. I ordered a new drivers side actuator. When I received part it was a passenger side so I sent it back and waited for the replacement. Once again the company sent me the passenger side again so I told them to refund my money and stick it up there ***. So last night I was reading the forum again and decide to poke around and once I cleaned motor I noticed gears were fine just weak motor so I pulled it apart and next I know it works great. Since it was late I used what ever screws I had, sometimes I man handle things so the case looks like hell but is holding. Thanks guys!

 

I just drilled 2 the rivets on the motor end, spread it open like a clam shell and dropped the motor out. Then squeezed the motor back in with the wafer removed and tin foil installed. I installed a couple pieces of tie wire in the rivet holes and twisted them with pliers.................done!

 

I drilled out the plastic rivets. Then I drilled the rivets with 1/16" bit. Next I used a small screw and washer to screw into the rivet and hold the case halves together. Like new.

 

awesome! I am having issues with my passenger door on my 2000 f350 crew cab. i will be trying this fix as soon as we get home! thanks for posting!

 

I did all 4 doors yesterday... thanks for the pictures..I used copper plate for the commutator and it works like new..

 

Just a reminder after doing this repair,, don't hold the lock button down it will burn out the motors. The thermistor was used to protect the motors and removal means they work but only bump the lock. If a someone held the button down too long they may quit working.

 

Question - in my expedition the doors automatically lock when I take my foot off the brake for the first time after starting. The F350 does not, should it? I am having all kids of electrical issues and I am wondering if this is another one I need to put on the list.

I had to replace one actuator a couple years ago (I dont know how you men with big hands can do it when I could hardly get my girl hands in there) but now all doors lock and unlock with the switch on the door or with the key fob but not with the brakes.

 

I mostly used long screwdrivers and long needlenose pliers. And a little mirror with a long handle.