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what you are saying makes total sense. I see what you pull and trust you have done your research.
so I will keep my stock exhaust and install my gauges but I would like to install the engine oil, boost, and 1 pyro (pre turbo).
is all the air that goes in turbo recycled? and you say the best place to install that pre turbo probe in the exhaust manifold? as I just want to install 1 pyro.
sorry about the questions the more people I talk to around here (my neighborhood)the more confused I get ,they all have semi different opinions, strong ones at that too.
I used to live in Clearwater, FL as well… not that that has anything to do with this... and I have strong opinions tempered with direct knowledge and education… a dangerous combination.
ALL exhaust from the engine goes straight through the turbo. Put your pyrometer in the exhaust manifold. Get the aftermarket exhaust only if you like the sound. The SCMT is all you need (with an EGT gauge) to get great performance, easy return-to-stock, and safe EGTs. I pulled my Banks box out the day after I tried the SCMT. Felt like the same amount of power (maybe more in the lower powerband), but with EGT 200 degrees lower.
thanks for the info...that should save me about 800 on exhaust. I like the sound of my stock ride. I am going to install the three gauges. with the pyro pre turbo..makes sense what ur saying..
good to hear ur a former clearwateree, weather nice here, rain today and getting cooler, maybe 65 tonight bbuuurrr calling for 57 i the morning
OK I am sold. I am going to order the Super Tuner. The question I have is what gauges should I also run. I read where I needed the boost and the Pyrometer. The Pyrometer comes in pre and Post. What one is most critical.
The piller I am thinking about ordering is a 3 gauge. What other is gauges are recommended. I already have Trans and engine temp and oil pressure on the dash.
The I hate to lose the Handle where the Piller goes. Does anyone know a manufacture that makes a piller where I can mount gauges and also keep the factory handle?
OK I am sold. I am going to order the Super Tuner. The question I have is what gauges should I also run. I read where I needed the boost and the Pyrometer. The Pyrometer comes in pre and Post. What one is most critical.
The piller I am thinking about ordering is a 3 gauge. What other is gauges are recommended. I already have Trans and engine temp and oil pressure on the dash.
The I hate to lose the Handle where the Piller goes. Does anyone know a manufacture that makes a piller where I can mount gauges and also keep the factory handle?
Thanks
You can mount the gauges on the bottom of the dash.
EGT and Boost are the most popular. Make sure the boost gauge goes to at least 35 PSI.
OK I am sold. I am going to order the Super Tuner. The question I have is what gauges should I also run. I read where I needed the boost and the Pyrometer. The Pyrometer comes in pre and Post. What one is most critical.
The piller I am thinking about ordering is a 3 gauge. What other is gauges are recommended. I already have Trans and engine temp and oil pressure on the dash.
The I hate to lose the Handle where the Piller goes. Does anyone know a manufacture that makes a piller where I can mount gauges and also keep the factory handle?
Thanks
You want the pyrometer in the manifold. It takes about 10 minutes to drill and tap/thread the manifold for the thermocouple. Very easy installation.
OK I am sold. I am going to order the Super Tuner. The question I have is what gauges should I also run. I read where I needed the boost and the Pyrometer. The Pyrometer comes in pre and Post. What one is most critical.
The piller I am thinking about ordering is a 3 gauge. What other is gauges are recommended. I already have Trans and engine temp and oil pressure on the dash.
The I hate to lose the Handle where the Piller goes. Does anyone know a manufacture that makes a piller where I can mount gauges and also keep the factory handle?
Thanks
The X-Monitor is a compact digital gauge that has Pyro, Boost, and Tranny temp all in one unit. See my gallery for photos of it. It allows you to keep the pillar handle.
Vic
Nice job on the tuning. After the first tank (501 Miles), running in the economy mode my milage is up 1.8 mpg. Besides that I like the firmness of the shifting. I have not tried any of the other modes yet. I'll probably run a tank in the tow mode and see how it is. Don't know if I'll ever try the performance mode.
I've found the driveability in the performance mode to be very good. The mapping of throttle position to get up and go is such that you can drive the truck about like normal but if you need to turn it up to 11 that extra power is just a tad deeper in the pedel.
I found that the economy didn't suffer in HP mode like I thought it might - a lot more zip but no real impact on the $$ at the pump
I've found the driveability in the performance mode to be very good. The mapping of throttle position to get up and go is such that you can drive the truck about like normal but if you need to turn it up to 11 that extra power is just a tad deeper in the pedel.
I found that the economy didn't suffer in HP mode like I thought it might - a lot more zip but no real impact on the $$ at the pump
In economy mode the power gain seems to be pretty subtle. I can tell the difference climbing the last hill on the way home. It's a 5 mile grade, with the tuner it takes less foot to maintain speed. And it gets up and goes to pass a little better.
Daryl
Do you normally leave yours in the Perf mode? I commute 100 miles a day 80 miles of that is at 65 mph, 2 lane highway.
In economy mode the power gain seems to be pretty subtle. I can tell the difference climbing the last hill on the way home. It's a 5 mile grade, with the tuner it takes less foot to maintain speed. And it gets up and goes to pass a little better.
Daryl
Do you normally leave yours in the Perf mode? I commute 100 miles a day 80 miles of that is at 65 mph, 2 lane highway.
The econcomy file is a bit different on an 03. The 04 economy program has a bit longer powerband, (closer to PERF) and a higher shift point.
Peak power is about the same, it just has more sustain.
(sustain-there's a guitar term for ya=o)
Both years will shift about 4k with the performance program.
I do leave mine, an early '03 build, in HP mode most of the time unless I'm towing.
I only commute 4 miles to work though and the majority of my driving is in town. When hopping on the interstate for a few miles when running errands and such I do try to get up to speed quickly and merge with style though and the HP or YP (as in Yippie!) mode helps with that
I have been following this thread and have ordered mine from motorhaven but I do have a question? I wanted this for the added UMP while towing which mostly happens in the summer but my concern is this. With the higher shift points has anyone had any issues with driving on ice and snow on the middle mode. I just envision it switching to the next gear and having the rear end start to slide around. Looking for someone with some winter time road advice. Thanks
I've not driven it on snow or ice but have on rain.
It's pretty driveable even in the HP mode. I can spin the tires at 50 MPH if I want to stand on the pedel hard but otherwise it drives about like normal when you aren't on the go pedel that deep.
The shifts are firmer than stock and that could cause the rear to break loose if you were on really slippery stuff, but if it was that slick, I'm guessing that you wouldn't going that fast.
[/QUOTE]It's pretty driveable even in the HP mode. I can spin the tires at 50 MPH if I want to stand on the pedel hard but otherwise it drives about like normal when you aren't on the go pedel that deep.[QUOTE]
I agree I started running mine in the HP mode last night before my commute home ( I changed it while eating in the Carls Jr parking lot). Anyway normal driving its barely noticable, very nice. But when you drop the pedal, GREAT GOOGLY MOOGLY, the horses are unleashed and I never knew this truck could move like this! Now I can't wait to pull my big trailer this spring.