Here...


50-60 miles pulling the trailer before unhooking it. Kept limping it along, roughly 180 miles, 4 hours kept driving it.

 

Would be interesting to know if you did upgrade the CP4, how much that would affect the warrantee?
Obviously Ford would not be covering the pump, but would they deny everything else? (probably).

 

And, the pump upgrade wouldn't be something the dealer would install.
But, yes, I would imagine a non-stock type pump would void the warranty on the rest of the fuel system, and very likely the whole engine.

 

Okay, so I watched the S&S videos, I now understand more about how the fuel system works, not sure I completely understand why his example pump low side pump plunger didn't show any metal debris, even though he said that was where the trash gets pumped up to the high side???
And, what makes the S&S prevention kit worth more than twice as much as one of the other kits that look identical and use the same fuel filter?
S&S kit is $400, identical looking kit I found for $180???

 

Just like any other knockoff, there is a good chance it is not of the same quality.
S&S actually has a video talking about that.

 

Most dealers would try, but if the pump is just an aftermarket replacement, and runs at the same "specs" as the stock pump,
would it be much different than an aftermarket oil filter? Which theoretically, dealer should have to prove was the issue, if/when.
(and I get that dealers blame non factory parts as often as they can get away with it, no matter if the true cause or not).

I guess the real question is what are the odds you have fuel system problems, if the pump is no longer an issue. Might be worth the gamble,
even if still under warrantee.

 

Well, it doesn't surprise me that the maker of the $400 kit would say that about the lesser expensive ones, they have to defend their higher cost one so they can keep selling them.

 

But, that pump isn't just a replacement, it is a pump intended for a different engine that is adapted to fit the PowerStroke, that is where they would gig you on warranty, and very possibly on warranty for the whole engine.
And, my luck on gambles like that isn't good.

 

You will have PLENTY of warning that the pump is failing with intermittent low fuel pressure codes until the pump completely fails, by then it would probably start leaking fuel and making terrible noises. In the mean time all the grindings from the cam would be captured by the return filter.

Quality control, these are chinese knockoffs with no warranty and can leave you stranded with blown fittings.

I don't particularly like the S&S lines, or the adapter on the pump, it looks like a weak spot and the lines look cobbled together, compared to the SPE kit which is finely machined billet with a really nice finished look to it, but in the end both kits do the job intended, the S&S return filter is hands down THE BEST, the SPE kit just looks better. If I were to do it again I would just do the S&S kit though since the SPE was a bit more than $400 plus the $160 for the S&S return filter kit. Like I said the SPE kit just looks better, more professional design. You get what you pay for, if S&S went the SPE route for the lines and fittings it would be a much more expensive kit.

This is what the SPE parts look like. All machined aluminum with an anodized coating. This is the return "filter" and a PITA to install, so I left it off. It will capture the larger pieces, but the fines that do the most HP damage would get past it until it fully clogs.


This is the S&S filter. As you can see the machining is not to the same level and the compression band on the fuel line looks pieced together. To the left of the oil cap is the SPE fuel line, and the middle fuel line on the filter is also part of the SPE kit, looks factory. The lines use fittings that are more professional looking, so overall it just looks better.


Where the S&S kit uses on line split into two that connects to the filter and then the pump, the SPE kit uses a splitter that attaches to the primary fuel line, and splits off a second line to the adapter under the FFR to feed it separately.

 

Ok 6.7 Powerstroke experts... I have another question for you.

I keep thinking through both of the failures of the CP4 (on my 2011 and on my 2017). Yesterday, I finally had some time to do a little research. I keep records on everything including all of my fuel stops, where I fueled up, amount of diesel I put in etc. in a spreadsheet along with all my service work. My dealership has done all of the service work at the correct intervals on both of my Super Duties. One thing I did notice in common between my 2011 and 2017 failures is that just prior to both failures, I had the fuel filters changed. Back in June 2015 on my 2011 Super Duty, I had the fuel filters changed about 1 week before we drove from Austin, TX up to Estes Park, CO. That is about 2.5 day trip - around 1100 miles. The day after we arrived my fuel system failed. On my 2017, I had the fuel filters changed about a month before the failure (back in June) as we were getting ready for our trip to Montana. So my you can see where I am going here.... The common thread is that the fuel filters were changed and then I had a failure. I was reading in the 2017 Owners' Manual about changing the fuel filter and noticed the following sentence "Note: No special air purge is necessary after filter servicing. The fuel system purges the air in the filters." Then further down at the end of the installation instructions for the filters is bullet point number 3 "Switch the ignition on for 30 seconds and then switch the ignition off.Repeat this operation six times in a row to purge any trapped air from the fuel system."

Multiple people and the report I quoted indicated that air in the CP4 is major issue and can cause failure. So my question is... What if my dealership technician didn't repeat the on/off ignition procedure 6 times as indicated in the manual? Could this have been the cause of the issue? I would love for those of you more knowledgeable than me to weigh in on this...

Thanks!

 

In my experience with both Ford and Dodge/Ram, dealers don't approve/disapprove warranty claims. Dealers submit requests with pics and material evidence of part failures to the manufacturer's warranty claims dept., where the approval/disapproval is made. Dealers may work with you a bit, in the way that they present the claim "evidence", but the actual decision is made on the deeper pocketed corporate side.

 

That is true.
Although the dealer is not the one who approves or denies the warranty repair, the information they provide, or maybe the way they submit it, can make or break the approval. I experienced this when trying to get warranty approval for a headlight. One dealer submitted photos etc and eventually told me that Ford didn't approve replacement. I went to another dealer who got approval within 24 hrs.

 

for the fuel filters vs air in the system.

I purge mine as follows: Key on and listen for the buzz. I donn't shut the key off till the buzz quits. (maybe, maybe not longer than 30 seconds.

I do this 8 times and then start it. Hits right away with no delay.

So it may just be plausible they are cranking it extensively trying to purge and start at the same timel

Start doing your own fuel filters. I always have.

 

Yup, that is what I am thinking.....

 

Well, the thing about priming/purging the new filters is that if you don't, the truck won't start without multiple tries, which is doing the priming but not enough, then will eventually start, but will run very rough with too much air in the system. It will eventually work the air out, but it takes quite a bit and will run rough until it does.
So, doubtful anyone would change the fuel filters without doing a good prime/purge.