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Something else to keep in mind, especially when installing or aligning a front 4WD axle...
If you move the spindles back and forth with the steering linkage all connected and the engine off, then fluid will spit out of the bleeder hole in the cap of the reservoir, as the pump isn't circulating.
The fluid that spits out usually finds itself splattered on the driver's side inner fender well where the chassis harness wire connectors sit all in a row underneath the hydroboost brake master cylinder.
The more that one wiggles the axle spindle (and/or tires and wheels, if attached), the more fluid will spit out of the bleeder hole in the reservoir cap, if the engine isn't running.
As Sous mentioned, this pressure relief in the absence of the pump circulating the fluid through the system can give a false appearance of a leak.
I simply learn from others who have gone before me or have the ability to research what I need. If I don't, I punt and ask for help just like everyone else does.
I am not sure about the high pressure hose hose fitting and cannot remember what mine was like after I installed it. I can tell you that it does not leak though.
Referring back to section 211-02 I see the details in the wording about the teflon ring may not be referring to the high pressure hose to pump fitting, but it might. The only time the high pressure line is mentioned is in step 6 as noted below.
Although, I was/am pretty sure there is a teflon ring at that fitting. I recalled a thread by AKCooper9 a while back where he was looking for a definitive answer. Here is his thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-or-oring.html
There is in fact a teflon ring there at the pump to hose fitting based on what I see in the FSM and in AKCooper9's thread.
Also, keep in mind that the reservoir cap has a small hole in it. If you overfilled the reservoir at all, the fluid could run down the side and to that fitting.
Originally Posted by Y2KW57
Something else to keep in mind, especially when installing or aligning a front 4WD axle...
If you move the spindles back and forth with the steering linkage all connected and the engine off, then fluid will spit out of the bleeder hole in the cap of the reservoir, as the pump isn't circulating.
The fluid that spits out usually finds itself splattered on the driver's side inner fender well where the chassis harness wire connectors sit all in a row underneath the hydroboost brake master cylinder.
The more that one wiggles the axle spindle (and/or tires and wheels, if attached), the more fluid will spit out of the bleeder hole in the reservoir cap, if the engine isn't running.
As Sous mentioned, this pressure relief in the absence of the pump circulating the fluid through the system can give a false appearance of a leak.
I will keep in mind about the vent leaking while I am putting my front axle in. I wasn't really thinking about it and I appreciate you pointing it out! The fluid is only $30 a gallon
Unfortunately it's leaking extensively and constantly with the truck running and not moving. A quick leak. Maybe 10 miles before my pump is grinding after filling, if that. The bottom of the pump and lines are all soaked and the back of the steering gear directly below the pump is soaked. Here is a quick pic. Couldn't get much better at the time. You'll notice the block ground is also soaking wet with ATF. I looked at it with the truck running. The pressure line on the side of the pump is soaked. And even after tightening the fitting down I could swivel the back side of it like it wasn't even on. I will take it apart this afternoon and see what I figure out. I will update y'all when I get off work. Thank you all for the advice and input. I will keep all of this in my mind!
I may be wrong but I thought that fitting would swivel even after tightening.
Isn’t that one sort of like a banjo bolt with internal sealing orings (I assume) to allow it to swivel? I can’t remember how it sealed to the pump.
Maybe so. All of the ones that are sold at the auto stores have a Teflon sealing ring on the threads as stated by Sous. Even if it is supposed to swivel, it feels way too loose. It almost feels like it's not even screwed in. The swivel joint that is. It is free moving quite literally. Here's a picture of a fitting I found on Google. Not sure what the right fitting is for but you get the gist. I don't know to be honest. I figured it would tighten up and not swivel anymore. Maybe someone else can clear it up for us!🤣
Tristan, when you remove the fitting/hose next time, take a look into the pump threads and make sure there is no debris, teflon ring or anything that would obstruct a clean and sealed fitting. The rubber o-rings on the gear side of the hoses are notorious for this. Think of it like an oil filter that leaves the o-ring on the sealing surface of the engine. Once you install the new oil filter with the new o-ring attached, that seal point/location is no longer a seal.
Worst case scenario is you remove the pump and put the hose on the pump outside of the truck where you can see what is going on easily. I don't think it will come to that, but that is a possibility.
Tristan, when you remove the fitting/hose next time, take a look into the pump threads and make sure there is no debris, teflon ring or anything that would obstruct a clean and sealed fitting. The rubber o-rings on the gear side of the hoses are notorious for this. Think of it like an oil filter that leaves the o-ring on the sealing surface of the engine. Once you install the new oil filter with the new o-ring attached, that seal point/location is no longer a seal.
Worst case scenario is you remove the pump and put the hose on the pump outside of the truck where you can see what is going on easily. I don't think it will come to that, but that is a possibility.
Here's what I found. The o ring that was on there was completely screwed up. Definitely leaking from right there. I got the Teflon ring kit from doorman that you recommended but, I am having a time trying to get it to fit over the fitting. The bigger of the two, I cannot get to fit on the fitting for the life of me.
I got it on using my fingernails working it down slowly. I also took my passenger side boost tube off while I was in here and fixed the bend that I put in it by installing the clamp wrong a while back.
I used a plastic 90° pick, like a dental pick after the teflon ring had been warmed up for a bit. Something like a toothpick might be helpful to you. Just be sure the material of whatever tool you use is softer than the metal threads.
Be sure to pinch the tip and roll it all the way down the… oh wait. Never mind.
Originally Posted by ESwift
Put it in warm water for a minute then slip it on carefully
Originally Posted by Sous
I used a plastic 90° pick, like a dental pick after the teflon ring had been warmed up for a bit. Something like a toothpick might be helpful to you. Just be sure the material of whatever tool you use is softer than the metal threads.
I got er done and put back together. Bled the system for a bit. Going for a ride to see if we hold fluid! I don't see anymore active leaking! Thanks for all the tips! I've never messed with Teflon rings before!
No leaks! The steering gear wasn't leaking after all! I drove around for a good while and everything went smooth. I had to add a little bit of fluid after bleeding the system for a while but that's to be expected. I wiped everything dry and everything stayed dry after my drive. No more ATF puttles under the truck either!
No leaks! The steering gear wasn't leaking after all! I drove around for a good while and everything went smooth. I had to add a little bit of fluid after bleeding the system for a while but that's to be expected. I wiped everything dry and everything stayed dry after my drive. No more ATF puttles under the truck either!
Outstanding news!
Hopefully this is a sign of good things to come this weekend while you are performing the 4x4 axle swap.
Hopefully this is a sign of good things to come this weekend while you are performing the 4x4 axle swap.
Thanks! Let's hope so! And other news I recorded my truck cold starting this morning. It was 27° last night and even with the 15W40 the truck cranked right up. I also got my new track bar bushings in today. I put the bushings in on the one side but, I tried the other side and for the life of me I could not get the old bushings out. I tried the torch and the air chisel. It didn't even try to move. After messing with it for a while I decided to leave it like it is for the time being. The bushing is still tight, it looks like the track bar was recently replaced because there is a tag on it from ford, so the bushings had nothing wrong with them but I wanted to replace them anyway. Preventative maintenance.
But anywho I think I'm going to leave that side like it is for now because the bushings are still tight and I will worry about changing them at a later date. You know, when I have a sawzall blade handy
