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I keep forgetting diesel o-rings exists! I always go straight to riff Raff. But there shipping is expensive. Thank you very much for the link good sir!
Just bought this from Riffraff about 3 weeks ago and some injector orings. Riffraff was about $4 cheaper than dieselorings and shipping was only $5 something. Got it in 2 days, and they even shipped it on Saturday. Either way both are OEM parts, but Riffraff stocks way more so I normally go there because I can get everything all in a single shipment.
Just a reminder that Bob at @DieselOrings is also an official FTE vendor / sponsor, so don't feel bad throwing some business Bob's way.
He's been in business for almost 20 years (don't quote me, I'm going by my memory of his firsts post on another forum as a fellow member asking us what we thought about him selling all the O Rings he researched original sources for without paying Ford's mark up... because we all know that Ford doesn't have an O ring making machine... they get them from a supplier, and Bob researched and found suppliers lo these many years ago).
Just a reminder that Bob at @DieselOrings is also an official FTE vendor / sponsor, so don't feel bad throwing some business Bob's way.
He's been in business for almost 20 years (don't quote me, I'm going by my memory of his firsts post on another forum as a fellow member asking us what we thought about him selling all the O Rings he researched original sources for without paying Ford's mark up... because we all know that Ford doesn't have an O ring making machine... they get them from a supplier, and Bob researched and found suppliers lo these many years ago).
My assumption (huge word here) has been Clay is actually stocking and selling Bob’s orings. Maybe buying at a “vendor” price from Bob? Most of the part numbers are the same between the two companies I believe. Bob also lists some of Clay’s items I think. Their prices are usually similar. I have purchased and had great service from both of them. I appreciate those guys!
I finally got my pitman arm ordered, it'll be here thursday, along with some new energy suspension sway bar bushings and end link bushings as well as track bar bushings. All polyurethane of course I'm going to use one of the old end link bushings for the missing shock bushing on the rear. I'm going to replace all the shocks soon but I want to make sure everything works before I do that.
I need to buy some jack stands for my 4x4 swap! What brand? Is 2, 3 ton stands good? Hey Jason, where do you usually put your jack stands when doing the swap?
You’ll need more like ‘6-ton’ stands to give you the height you need. Bigger is better/more stable.
Place them on frame just behind where the shackle hangers attach. You’ll be jacking it until the tires are almost off the ground.
Chock both sides of both back wheels. Maybe even stack some wheels up as back up for the jack stands. You’ll be in the death zone under the truck pushing and pulling. Make sure it doesn’t fall on you!
I have my donor axle out and cleaned up. I should finally be ripping the 2wd apart tomorrow...
energy suspension sway bar bushings and end link bushings as well as track bar bushings. All polyurethane of course I'm going to use one of the old end link bushingsfor the missing shock bushing on the rear.
Have you disassembled the sway bar endlinks from your donor axle assembly yet? I would suggest doing so before planning on reusing any of the old parts. They could actually be cross axis ball joints, rather than simple rubber bushings, and if that is the case, they may not be useable for your shocks.
Here is what a cross axis ball joint looks like inside:
And here is what these joints look like within the endlinks of Ford sway bars...
(Note that the photos below contain text that was relevant to an older post of mine, so ignore the text and just observe the characteristics and complexity of the OEM end link bushing, which may or may not be applicible in your case, depending on what you find when you pull one apart. Used vehicles are never certain, as you never know what the series of previous owners have updated or changed. One FTE member reported today finding a 1999 engine in his 2001, after years of ownership.)
where do you usually put your jack stands when doing the swap?
Ford's service illustrations immediately above (both sides of vehicle) are the factory suggested hoist points on the Super Duty frame that can also be used for jack stands.
You will notice that these points are immediately behind of the aft front leaf spring shackles, as Jason said. One of the earlier chapters in the Ford Service Manual has these illustrations. Worth reviewing, now that you have the book.
If I were you, I'd leave the 2WD radius arm brackets attached to the frame. They need not be removed to fit the 4WD leaf spring hangars.
In fact, I actually ordered and ADDED the 2WD radius arm frame brackets to my 4WD, to serve as sturdier jack stand points that allow the frame angle to be tilted, even severely, without putting a stress concentration from the corner of the jack stand casting into the unsupported flange of the open C frame rail.
The advantage of the 2WD radius arm brackets is that they also engage with the web of the frame, nearer to the neutral axis of the rail, using 3 bolts through the web with a double sistered plate, as well as the bolts through the lower flange.
I placed a large bushing from a bulldozer in lieu of the radius arm, and that bushing serves as the bearing point for the jack stand. It seats into the curve of the jack stand casting nicely, which is what permits the severe (and secure) tilting of the frame.
In the photo of my 4WD truck below, you can see how the 2WD radius arm bracket can coexist peacefully with the aft shackle of the 4WD front leaf spring.
Have you disassembled the sway bar endlinks from your donor axle assembly yet? I would suggest doing so before planning on reusing any of the old parts. They could actually be cross axis ball joints, rather than simple rubber bushings, and if that is the case, they may not be useable for your shocks.
Here is what a cross axis ball joint looks like inside:
And here is what these joints look like within the endlinks of Ford sway bars...
(Note that the photos below contain text that was relevant to an older post of mine, so ignore the text and just observe the characteristics and complexity of the OEM end link bushing, which may or may not be applicible in your case, depending on what you find when you pull one apart. Used vehicles are never certain, as you never know what the series of previous owners have updated or changed. One FTE member reported today finding a 1999 engine in his 2001, after years of ownership.)
So, I have not disassembled my end links yet, the only reason I figured it would work is because we measured them and they were the right size but, I could also see rubber sticking out on either end but from the picture you showed the ball joints have rubber as well so it's hard to tell until I take it apart as you mentioned. The rear shock on one side that I have for the rear has no bushing left at all. Realistically I only need the one lower bushing. All the rest of them are fine because I don't plan on keeping these shocks long. I am getting my end link bushings in Thursday so, I will spend this weekend changing out bushings and getting the shocks ready. I'm glad you mentioned this and I will be interested to see what my donor axle has currently. I sure know what's going in it!
I know this picture doesn't do you any good but I'm a post it anyway! It's the best picture I could get without walking downstairs and going and actually taking a picture in the cold. We all know that's too much to ask.....right? Anyway I found a video of me recording next to it and zoomed in and this is what I found!
Can't tell a thing!
You’ll need more like ‘6-ton’ stands to give you the height you need. Bigger is better/more stable.
Place them on frame just behind where the shackle hangers attach. You’ll be jacking it until the tires are almost off the ground.
Chock both sides of both back wheels. Maybe even stack some wheels up as back up for the jack stands. You’ll be in the death zone under the truck pushing and pulling. Make sure it doesn’t fall on you!
I have my donor axle out and cleaned up. I should finally be ripping the 2wd apart tomorrow...
I'm thinking I'm going to do my swap the weekend after this coming weekend. I am not sure if you will have your videos done by then but if they are I will definitely review them before diving in myself!
I did not even think about the height. Thinking about it now as you mentioned three ton jack stands will not be tall enough.
So you mentioned to Jack the truck up until the wheels are just about to come off the ground and put the jack stands behind where the leaf springs go. Which of course at this point in time, there will be a radius arm. So behind the radius arm mount.
This is when you remove your two wheel drive axle correct? Do you leave the tires on until you remove the I-beams? If you jack until the tires are just about to come off the ground, this leaves pressure on the springs and whatnot does it not? I don't think I understand exactly what you were trying to get at. I would think to remove the front suspension you would have to jack until the tires are all the way off the ground to relieve pressure from coil springs.
I'm sorry I'm asking a lot of questions, I'm trying to get everything in my head before I do this. I've got most of it figured out but, I'm trying to see the whole picture and not just the squirrel going up the tree in the corner if that makes sense
Ford's service illustrations immediately above (both sides of vehicle) are the factory suggested hoist points on the Super Duty frame that can also be used for jack stands.
You will notice that these points are immediately behind of the aft front leaf spring shackles, as Jason said. One of the earlier chapters in the Ford Service Manual has these illustrations. Worth reviewing, now that you have the book.
If I were you, I'd leave the 2WD radius arm brackets attached to the frame. They need not be removed to fit the 4WD leaf spring hangars.
In fact, I actually ordered and ADDED the 2WD radius arm frame brackets to my 4WD, to serve as sturdier jack stand points that allow the frame angle to be tilted, even severely, without putting a stress concentration from the corner of the jack stand casting into the unsupported flange of the frame rail.
The advantage of the 2WD radius arm brackets is that they also engage with the web of the frame, nearer to the neutral axis of the rail, using 3 bolts through the web with a sistered plate, as well as the bolts through the lower flange.
I placed a large bushing from a bulldozer in lieu of the radius arm, and that bushing serves as the bearing point for the jack stand. It seats into the curve of the jack stand casting nicely, which is what permits the severe (and secure) tilting of the frame.
In the photo of my 4WD truck below, you can see how the 2WD radius arm bracket can coexist peacefully with the aft shackle of the 4WD front leaf spring.
I like this idea! I will leave my radius arm brackets in place. I also understand the benefit you mentioned about the bracket and grabbing the center using the bolts.
Not sure what kind of a giant bushing I will use in the center but I will find something. I might just make one out of a solid steel cylinder and a drill bit
I will remove the tires. This will require jacking I-beams a little to get tires off. Then, I’ll remove calipers and hang them safely out of the way until 4wd axle is installed. Then, install the calipers and swap the hoses out - minimizing fluid loss.
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I'm going to use one of the old end link bushings for the missing shock bushing on the rear. I'm going to replace all the shocks soon but I want to make sure everything works before I do that.
Anyway I found a video of me recording next to it and zoomed in and this is what I found!
