Same! This could be a game changer for T4 fence sitters and I'm eager as I'm sure everyone else is to see the end results.

 

I'm going to be interested in seeing you layup the carbon fiber.

 

To whet your appetite, here is an integrated seat mast topper/saddle I made for my road bike. All my CF work is structural so it's not pretty. I did wet layup for this one but I may try resin infusion for the y-pipe. Total weight is 193.6g and it supports my 175lb ***.

 

Ahh, a fellow cyclist....
Mad skills/ patience to R&D your seat

I spent more than I'd like to admit just adjusting mine up/down/front/back/tilt to fit me just perfect on all the hills and flats after many rides

 

You cycling people....This is a saddle, not that carbon fiber thing attached to a post.

 

I used to ride sport bike motorcycles... Does that count?

2003 GSX-R 600cc Alstare and a 2008 Hayabusa 1340cc.




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On a thread related note, what would you change in the shape or routing of the Y-pipe if you did make your own out of carbon fiber? Would you put a dent or diversion in the upper part of the Y that goes to the IC tube? Have you thought that far yet or just set a COA in case you need to go that far?

 

nope......

 

Im with Dan on the saddle issue.

Noob,If theres going to be trouble with y-pipe,just fab completely new with different angle..?

 

Oh me too. I did not arrive at the geometry for the integrated unit until I was absolutely sure that position is how I like it. What do you ride?

What say you to this eh?



Interestingly, one of the race cars I am interested in is powered by a 'Busa motor.





What I am constrained by in terms of reclocking the actuator is how much clearance I have to the y-pipe at the front, to the underside of the cowl of the cab on top, and to the T4 mounting bracket to the rear. Looking at how high the housing sits above the plate, I could possibly clock it below but would rather not for ease of access to the actuator. My best chance of having good clearance on all sides is to clock it 45 degrees up and to the front. I suspect this will still be insufficient to clear the y-pipe but will clear the cowl of the cab. The other option is to clock it 45 degrees up and to the rear. I will probably have to trim the actuator bracket and bend the heat shield for it to clear the T4 bracket. The part circled in the picture is to hold the Drive Pressure Sensor which I plan to mount elsewhere.

So to answer your questions about the y-pipe directly, I am planning on a minor reshaping of the upper portion that connects to the CAC pipe. A simple dent is easiest but not the best thing for flow. I'm thinking the part that has to clear the actuator will be a flattened oval being careful to maintain the same cross-sectional area as the round part, and then extending it so it sticks out over the passenger VC a little more to give room for the boot and clamp to clear the actuator also. That means I will have to trim the CAC tube and silver solder on a new anti hose pop off bead.

Geez that's a lot of work now that I have typed this all out. Anybody want to buy a VGT/VNT housing?

 

Time for a 1 or 2” body lift?
reduce your suspension lift to compensate?

 

Hmmm, I would rather not go down this route if I can help it.

 

I know you are not in the same ballpark regarding injectors or turbo, but most of us did not use the CSD Y-pipe mounting bracket.

If you could leave the bracket off, would that give you enough clearance for the VGT?

@countrycar , did you use the bracket? I ask because your build is closer to FTN's build than most of the others on here.

 

It's the pipe itself that is contacting the actuator as it sits currently.

 

That is what I thought you were saying in a previous post, but just wanted to be sure.

Interesting and highly anticipated build you have going on.

 

Noob you may want to look into getting a bead roller as opposed to silver solder, or have a shop slap a bead on your CAC pipe.