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For everyone that is planning on doing this job.
Make sure to use a plastic tool to remove the oil
seal if it sticks in the bore. You don't want any
scratches there.
Jack.... you should have been an unclear engender, the kind of guys that play with sumbariners.
Originally Posted by Yahiko
For everyone that is planning on doing this job.
Make sure to use a plastic tool to remove the oil
seal if it sticks in the bore. You don't want any
scratches there.
I just can't proof my own work. Every time I hired a secretary I made sure she had a background in literature or writing. The tech side I could teach. I start reviewing and I see what was in my head, not necessarily what I did, unless I go back a month. Then I wonder what the hell I was thinking. Actually while classified as a secretary, like all of us in a small group you multitask with everything.
I'd never screw with one of those guys. They go through enough of, well, being in the dark.
And don't over tighten the pan bolts, something like 6lbs or they will drip.
Drained 30k worth of Wolf's-head brand from mine about an hour ago... looked like new, so did the filter. Nothing in it at this point. Pan went back on and 9 quarts of synthetic.
Pick one or use something that meets those specs. The local Fleet Supply sells the Wolf's-head brand at $4.10 a quart, meets Mercon LV specs, what I use. I'm sure there are others brands that do the same... No need to over think it.
Thanks Sean. I appreciate the thought and your giving these to people who need them. Just so you don't have to worry about me I have the Ford Service manuals covering 2001 and 2003, and some 2004. I'm crazed enough that I have labels on all the common maintenence plugs, caps, nuts and bolts so that I don't need to reference. Pan retaining bolts I would have had to look up, so this did safe me a boot up on the old XP.
Well, despite the innocent question of a newer member of the community I think this has become an interesting thread. Maybe I feel this way because it feels like I posted the most in it. So between this thread and the thread Scott started and referenced we know:
Transmission filter and pan threads can get as contentious as motor oil threads.
Changing to the later model filtration can be even more important for light duty use trucks then HD use trucks, but I think it's safe to say just upgrade to the newer design.
I ain't ever challenging or assuming what Mark K is saying.
It's time to find out who stamps out the 6.4L transmission pans and buy the stock, as well as Mann who makes the filters. This may be a bad assumption as it seems like all the smart guys have already changed to this setup.
Jack I thought it was a sure bet that you have a copy of the service manuals
but other people could use the info.
On the 6.4 pan.
Mine is like yours still sitting in a box. I had gotten it just before the
trans took a dump about 18 Mo ago. The new trans came all filled up and I
at the time did not want to fuss with till the next change that is do here soon.
The silly thing is they would not ship the reman with the 6.4 pan and filter in it.
So sometime between doing the drag link replacement I will drop the pan and
stick the new on on.
Got home today and found that the pan with reusable gasket has a drip. Only fix is to remove the pan and check the mating surface for flatness. The gasket with the new pan isn't as good as the old gasket, it's just a flat prices of rubber and at 11lbs is squeezed so that's it's bulged at the screws in several locations.... the location of the drip.
The old gasket is rubber with a good wire frame sandwiched between the sealing material.... it's going back in. The real bummer is that I'm going to dump $40 worth of fluid in the can at Advance!
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9 Qts go back in...
