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I see a downside to keeping the external; all the tranny fluid dripping off of it. I replaced that element last fall, put on a new o-ring, and tightened the snot out of it. Didn't take long before it was coated in fluid and grime.
Is it possible to remove the external completely without changing or hindering flow patterns or flow rate? I ask because I've been thinking about replacing it with a full flow (as in no bypass) spin-on type filter.
The filter assembly has an O-ring to seal it and you don;t need to go
Incredible Hulk on the torque. In doing that you risk other problems
that can lead to leaks. Pinched O-ring comes to mind.
And dang, we didn't even get into the finned aluminum pan's superior rigidity that will keep the trans case from cracking or that it lowers trans oil temps...
Where's the fun of it anymore...?!
Who knows if it is true or not, but I've heard from MANY customers that they have seen about a five degree (on average) reduction in trans fluid temps after the installation of the aluminum pan that we carry. I've heard it from too many to not think it has merit.
The rigidity claim I have no basis on other than the statements made by the same folks claiming that their aftermarket transmission filter is finer filtration and, well, logic. Those pans are STOUT.
The filter assembly has an O-rinf to seal it and you don;t need to go
Incredible Hulk on the torque. In doing that you risk other problems
that can lead to leaks. Pinched O-ring comes to mind.]
Not to mention the light bracket that secures the filter in place. When torquing on it open or close, the concern becomes popping or breaking one of the supply lines.
I get in there with a vice grips to secure the assembly to surrounding supports to rigid it up before wrenching on it.
Who knows if it is true or not, but I've heard from MANY customers that they have seen about a five degree (on average) reduction in trans fluid temps after the installation of the aluminum pan that we carry. I've heard it from too many to not think it has merit.
The rigidity claim I have no basis on other than the statements made by the same folks claiming that their aftermarket transmission filter is finer filtration and, well, logic. Those pans are STOUT.
There comes a point where the transmission fluid can be too cold. It needs to get
enough heat to boil the condensation out of the transmission or you will end up
with strawberry milkshake crap on the dipstick and all the issues that moisture
can cause with the clutch adhesives.
IMO, it's your transmission operating temperature that you normally see that should first base your decision on an upgraded internal, always filtering pan and filter change, or stay the course. Then the consideration of other things.
I'm in So Cal, never crossed my mind that some of you would run for days/weeks/etc and never get the tranny up to operating temps.
Can't imagine Ford would want to develop a system that wouldn't allow that either.
It takes about 5-10 minutes in 80 degree heat here to get up to operating temps.
I Can just think of one caveat with the upgraded pan and filter. For those who aren't so disciplined to the necessary filter changeout schedule, it wouldn't be a good idea to starve that tranny of ATF after plugging up the media.
Maybe why the OEM filter allowed for a level of error that wouldn't hurt the tranny, yet "kind of filter" the fluid. Best of both worlds in early 5r110 land?
Even though I do, I really don't have to ever change out my OEM 4r100 or 5r110 filters.
There comes a point where the transmission fluid can be too cold. It needs to get
enough heat to boil the condensation out of the transmission or you will end up
with strawberry milkshake crap on the dipstick and all the issues that moisture
can cause with the clutch adhesives.
Not to mention the light bracket that secures the filter in place. When torquing on it open or close, the concern becomes popping or breaking one of the supply lines.
I get in there with a vice grips to secure the assembly to surrounding supports to rigid it up before wrenching on it.
I secured the mounting bracket to the frame with a clamp and a piece of plywood in between. I had to just to get the filter cup unscrewed without bending the flimsy bracket or, like you said, popping a supply line.
When I bought the truck the whole assembly looked just like it does now. And I don't recall the o-ring, or anything else being damaged.
As poorly designed as the mounting bracket is, why would anyone have faith that Ford did a better job on the filter housing? Not me, and that's one reason I'm thinking about replacing it with something different.
I'm in So Cal, never crossed my mind that some of you would run for days/weeks/etc and never get the tranny up to operating temps.
Can't imagine Ford would want to develop a system that wouldn't allow that either.
It takes about 5-10 minutes in 80 degree heat here to get up to operating temps. I Can just think of one caveat with the upgraded pan and filter. For those who aren't so disciplined to the necessary filter changeout schedule, it wouldn't be a good idea to starve that tranny of ATF after plugging up the media.
Maybe why the OEM filter allowed for a level of error that wouldn't hurt the tranny, yet "kind of filter" the fluid. Best of both worlds in early 5r110 land?
Even though I do, I really don't have to ever change out my OEM 4r100 or 5r110 filters.
That is what the SS screen you see on the end of the bottom is for -- it is the bypass if the media were to clog, then you are back to the original logs and boulders filter. Now if you don't want to pull the pan and change the filter every 60K, or ever, that is a different story...
Dumb question. If you remove the bypass filter, won't you still get flow bypassing the coolers, which is undesirable? Without a filter element you might even start bypassing more than 10% of the flow? I'm guessing they use a restriction orifice to limit the flow so it probably won't go much higher, but it will be "more" without the element.
My vote upgrade to the 6.4 filter, and leave the toilet-paper roll in there, let it plug and then you get 100% flow to the coolers! That's what I've done, partially because with my luck I'd break something on the external filter taking it off that one time.
Fluid going to the coolers is regulated by the thermostat. Whether the flow is low or high flow (based on temperature) 10% is diverted to go through the external filter. The filter does not regulate how much fluid is moving through the coolers.
A bypass filter arraignment like this keeps fluids still flowing through the coolers even if the filter is completely clogged. You design flow for correct cooling, then up 10% for what will go through the filter.
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