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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 08:47 AM
  #466  
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As you can see, already done. But I wore rubber gloves and grounded it during disassembly.

Originally Posted by vjsimone
No reason to disassemble your computer for the moment. Take it for a run, pull your codes, and go from there.

You could introduce some damage by disassembling. If your CAPs or anything else is damaged, it will show up in operation or via code reporting.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 08:47 AM
  #467  
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Originally Posted by c2z4s9
I apologize for going quiet on you. This is a mute point here but to answer your question, yes, I am able to perform self-test with my new computer.

It may also be worth noting that I have experienced this original poster's problem with the new computer (pump runs for a very long time). So far it's only happened twice and for the life of me I can't reproduce it. I never experienced the problem with the original computer. I'm not sure if those two points are related.
Yes, since the question, as you read, Steve found some wires swapped in his Self-Test connector. He states with his original computer, he was able to pull, codes, but after he replaced it, he was not able to pull codes. So, somewhere in that interim, his wires were magically swapped. Something is missing in his memory of what occurred during that time frame.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 08:55 AM
  #468  
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I think I know where that may have occurred. It's a long story and I can't prove it, but I had it in to a shop - some unscrupulous guys, who charged me about $300.00 and said they didn't know what was wrong with my vehicle and refused to work on it any longer. They had it for a week and all they did was change the timing, which was wrong when they gave it back to me as they had it set to 0 degrees; it's supposed to be 10 degrees BTDC. They also adjusted the idle screw totally out of kilter. At any rate, since I was able to pull codes with a test light before they got their hands on, I am ASSUMING they, for whatever reason, changed the wires. Again, it is an assumption on my part, possibly an unfair one, but I don't see any other way it could have happened.

Originally Posted by vjsimone
Yes, since the question, as you read, Steve found some wires swapped in his Self-Test connector. He states with his original computer, he was able to pull, codes, but after he replaced it, he was not able to pull codes. So, somewhere in that interim, his wires were magically swapped. Something is missing in his memory of what occurred during that time frame.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 08:56 AM
  #469  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
As you can see, already done. But I wore rubber gloves and grounded it during disassembly.
Yes, I see, bad advice, you can no longer guarantee the integrity of the computer you purchased. Hopefully no damage done, but it would have been smarter to test it out, pull the codes, make adjustments to prove the quality that you received. Breaking one wire in the connector between the two circuit boards can cause your computer to fail.

The damage to the example computer was most likely caused by an external component or self-induced by another one of us backyard mechanics…… Swapping wires and such…….
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 08:58 AM
  #470  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
I think I know where that may have occurred. It's a long story and I can't prove it, but I had it in to a shop - some unscrupulous guys, who charged me about $300.00 and said they didn't know what was wrong with my vehicle and refused to work on it any longer. They had it for a week and all they did was change the timing, which was wrong when they gave it back to me as they had it set to 0 degrees; it's supposed to be 10 degrees BTDC. They also adjusted the idle screw totally out of kilter. At any rate, since I was able to pull codes with a test light before they got their hands on, I am ASSUMING they, for whatever reason, changed the wires. Again, it is an assumption on my part, possibly an unfair one, but I don't see any other way it could have happened.
I always love more to the story.............
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 10:25 AM
  #471  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
As you can see, already done. But I wore rubber gloves and grounded it during disassembly.
Very smart to check the insides of a used computer before it has a chance to fail with bad caps.
Bad advice to just stick one in or you may be sorry down the road.

As far as I can see the caps look OK in that one.
If it was a rebuilt computer you might void the warranty opening one up but that one did not look like a rebuilt computer.

Checking the caps or replacing them is good advice and insurance with a salvage yard computer.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 03:44 PM
  #472  
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If I damaged it that will truly suck. It was hard enough finding an original, plus after being through quite a few computers, I'm hoping I don't need to buy another for Looooong time.

Didn't get any work done on it today. Not doing so well. Hopefully the diode will come tomorrow and I can solder that in. Will let you know how it turns out.

Oh, yeah. You stated that, with regard to the diode, it doesn't matter which red wire I connect, that they both go back to the same place. They go to different pins, don't they? If that is the case, why wouldn't it matter?

Steve



Originally Posted by vjsimone
Yes, I see, bad advice, you can no longer guarantee the integrity of the computer you purchased. Hopefully no damage done, but it would have been smarter to test it out, pull the codes, make adjustments to prove the quality that you received. Breaking one wire in the connector between the two circuit boards can cause your computer to fail.

The damage to the example computer was most likely caused by an external component or self-induced by another one of us backyard mechanics…… Swapping wires and such…….
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 04:22 PM
  #473  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
If I damaged it that will truly suck. It was hard enough finding an original, plus after being through quite a few computers, I'm hoping I don't need to buy another for Looooong time.

Didn't get any work done on it today. Not doing so well. Hopefully the diode will come tomorrow and I can solder that in. Will let you know how it turns out.

Oh, yeah. You stated that, with regard to the diode, it doesn't matter which red wire I connect, that they both go back to the same place. They go to different pins, don't they? If that is the case, why wouldn't it matter?

Steve
Not directly, they come off of a power source junction. See post #276
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 04:41 PM
  #474  
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By the way, the reason for the diode is to protect the computer's input. So, until you replace the diode.......
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 08:52 AM
  #475  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
By the way, the reason for the diode is to protect the computer's input. So, until you replace the diode.......
Good point... Steve, you might want to wait starting your engine until the Diode is replaced, to stay on the safe side.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 03:55 PM
  #476  
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Hi Vincent -

Still waiting on the diode. Supposed to arrive tomorrow.

In the meantime, I went to post 443 to check out your photos regarding the diode. Unfortunately, the thread only allows me to see my responses along with your quotes. But no photos.

Will you please repost those photos?

Thanks!!

Originally Posted by sgauvry
This is tremendous help, Vincent! I'll let you know how it turns out!!!
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 05:55 PM
  #477  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone



How about this..
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 06:08 PM
  #478  
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(Assuming it isn't a zener w/a breakdown voltage below that of the battery in the DVM. )
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 06:59 PM
  #479  
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Great! Thanks a bunch!!

Originally Posted by vjsimone
How about this..
 
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 06:59 PM
  #480  
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Steve, do you have a new IAC? If so you need to check to see if it has a built in Diode.
 
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