Steve, you should clear the Code 34 first, before you spend much more time with the 41 issue. But, it sounds like you got the ground nailed…… (0.2 ohms, no resistance). You currently have no vacuum to your EGR, TAD & TAB.

But, if you want, connect your voltmeter (dc volts) to your O2 wire connection (Pos. Lead) & Neg. lead to your great ground.

Check the voltage reading at idle, (After your engine is fully warm) record reading. Run it up to 1900 rpm, and watch the meter at the same time, the voltage level should increase up close to 1.0 vdc and then back down at idle.

KOER Code 41; You stated that you moved your O2 sensor from its original location (knee of “Y” pipe) to the passenger side exhaust header location.

Food for thought;;; It is possible, that your temperature for just 4 cylinders may never increase the O2 Sensor to the proper temperature to operate properly.

 

Yes Gary, this is the right drawing.....

 

Sounds like a plan.

 

I will check the voltage at idle and during increase in idle. I have thought that not including the other side might cause a malfunction. I could move the O2
to a better location and plug the hole of it present location. Can't do any of this today. Wife and I are heading out for the day.

 

I think this may work. Please let me know what you think. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...pgkxoC3T_w_wcB

 

Snuck in a little time before my wife and I leave for the day. Voltmeter reading started at.1. At around 1900 RPM's the meter read .98. At least we know there's good connectivity.

 

34 codes can be caused by to much vacuum at the egr valve.
Lack of vacuum will not cause a 34 code.

The EGR valve is either stuck open or he has and electrical problem at the EGR sensor or wiring to it.

The 33 code is the one for lack of vacuum to the valve.

 

This is interesting. However, we discovered an air leak in the plastic manifold that connects to the 4 solenoids. Using a gauge, there is 0 vacuum. Before I proceed I want to replace the plastic manifold (part on order) and replace, if possible, the vacuum reservoir. Once I do that, I'll pull codes again and if necessary, do some investigation with the EGR and the juice coming to it. The sensor and valve are brand spanking new, not that that means anything. But...

Parts should arrive sometime next week and I'll go from there.

 

Steve, I would use the reservoir you have, and just add the check valve to your red hose, available from your local auto parts, they are about $6.

Check the Black hose side of your reservoir with your vacuum gage after you install the check-valve into the Red hose side. You should get 15-20 -in. Hg.....

 

I hope you had a grand day!!

Steve, this tells me your O2 is putting out a correct voltage range.

(Thinking out loud; So it went from idle / .1 vdc (very lean), to 1900rpm / .98 vdc (very rich))


"At least we know there's good connectivity."

Not so fast..... Remember that connector upstream from the O2 connector you had connectivity problems with? Re-check that connection when you get the chance. Retest.

I’m also guessing there may be another connector near your driver’s side wheel-well. You may want to trace your O2 wire back to the EAC, check for other connectors along the way.

You are going to need to prove you are getting this voltage back to your EAC, while your ECA is connected and your engine is running. We’ll get back to this.

 

Steve - FYI, there's almost no current drawn through the circuit to the computer. So any resistance in connections causes major problems.

 

Hi Gary - don't know why but I didn't get an email indicating you posted a message. I seem to be having that problem with Vincent's posts too. I can get into the forum and see the posts, but am not getting notifications. I'll check my settings at this end.

I'll look into the resistance issues this evening when I return.

 

Yes, I'm having similar problems with this thread. Or, maybe it only sends an email every few minutes and there are so many posts that it skips many.

Anyway, not sure you saw that I found the part number for the reservoir - just in case you decide to buy a new one.

 

Yes, I did see that. Thanks!! But I'll be darned if I can find one, even in the junk yards. I sent a request for a search of one. We'll see what happens.

See below:

The following request has been sent to your group
(This is a summary of the request you sent, for your records only; please do not reply.)
************************************************** **********
----------------------------
Quote Summary
----------------------------
Quote Type : Quote Request
Quote# : 07/22/2016-10:15:39-4466320-200000000000000000953702508
Part Price :
Shipping Price :
Total Price :

----------------------------
Part Information
----------------------------
Year : 1985
Model : Ford Truck-F150
Part : Vacuum Storage Tank

----------------------------
Buyer's Comments
----------------------------
Claim Number : 7177613879
Shipping Method :
Date Needed By :
Comments :

----------------------------
Buyer's Contact Information
----------------------------
Business Type : Consumer
Business Name :
Contact Name : Steven Gauvry
Phone Number : 7177613879
Website :
Email Address : steven.a.gauvry@gmail.com

----------------------------
Buyer's Shipping Address
----------------------------
Address : 4918 Shasta Way
City : Mechanicsburg
State/Province/Country : PA
Postal Code : 17050

 

Steve it is always good to go back to the previous page when you log-in to the Forum, and review, just in the case you missed a post, or if a previous post was modified to correct the text.