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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 11:11 AM
  #526  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
Dry day here today.

I did not pick up a vacuum gauge yet. I did spray some WD40 around hoses, intake, throttle housing, IAC connection to the throttle housing, PCV valve, you get the idea. No increase in idle to report.

I suppose I need to go out a get a gauge. Not exactly sure what to do with it from there. I'm guessing I disconnect a hose at a time and test it. What reading should I look for?
What I am looking to get you to do for Code 34, is "T" into the ERG Valve vacuum connection. Watch and record the different vacuum during the KOER Self-Test. You will need a vacuum gage, a vacuum “T”, and short piece of vacuum hose.

The test increases the idle a few times, during these increases the ECA will signal your EGR Solenoid to open its valve and allow the vacuum to be applied to the EGR.

There are always multiple possibilities for a single code, I think I would start there.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 11:14 AM
  #527  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Yes and no. Whichever diode is fastest will come on first and start conducting current. And at the end of the cycle whichever diode has the lowest voltage drop, and we are talking .7v ish, will be the last to conduct with the other having stopped conducting.

Let's take two scenarios:
  • Diode 1 is fastest and has the least drop: In this case Diode 1 will start conducting first, Diode 2 will kick in and help but drop out at the end. So, the effect is that it is basically as if Diode 2 isn't there.
  • Diode 1 is fastest but Diode 2 has the least drop: Diode 1 will kick in and start conducting first, then Diode 2 will start and will take it to the end. In this case the overall timeframe will be shortened slightly over just having Diode 2.
Bottom Line: The differences between having one diode and having multiple should be very small, and probably are within the tolerances of the spec's on production line diodes.
I must have mis-interpreted. These diodes are in parallel and not in series?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 11:20 AM
  #528  
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Yes, parallel.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 11:23 AM
  #529  
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Originally Posted by c2z4s9
I must have mis-interpreted. These diodes are in parallel and not in series?
Yes, I would say parallel.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 11:39 AM
  #530  
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OK. Let's see if I have this right. The "T" connects to the vacuum hose that runs from the top-side of the EGR valve. The other side of the "T" connects to the TGR valve. The other part of the "T" connects to the vacuum gauge. Right? During the KOER test, am I to follow the instructions and turn the steering wheel/pump the brakes? If so, will the vacuum gauge keep the readings registered? Or do I just let the test increase the idle and watch the gauge so I can see what is going on?

Originally Posted by vjsimone
What I am looking to get you to do for Code 34, is "T" into the ERG Valve vacuum connection. Watch and record the different vacuum during the KOER Self-Test. You will need a vacuum gage, a vacuum “T”, and short piece of vacuum hose.

The test increases the idle a few times, during these increases the ECA will signal your EGR Solenoid to open its valve and allow the vacuum to be applied to the EGR.

There are always multiple possibilities for a single code, I think I would start there.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 11:42 AM
  #531  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
OK. Let's see if I have this right. The "T" connects to the vacuum hose that runs from the top-side of the EGR valve. The other side of the "T" connects to the TGR valve. The other part of the "T" connects to the vacuum gauge. Right? During the KOER test, am I to follow the instructions and turn the steering wheel/pump the brakes? If so, will the vacuum gauge keep the readings registered? Or do I just let the test increase the idle and watch the gauge so I can see what is going on?
Pretty sure you don't need to turn the steering wheel or pump brakes on your truck. There's no sensors there. You may get a code if you don't floor it when you are supposed to, but I would think you can ignore it.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 11:44 AM
  #532  
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OK. Off to get the vacuum gauge. Will let you know what I find.

Steve

Originally Posted by c2z4s9
Pretty sure you don't need to turn the steering wheel or pump brakes on your truck. There's no sensors there. You may get a code if you don't floor it when you are supposed to, but I would think you can ignore it.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 11:53 AM
  #533  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
OK. Let's see if I have this right. The "T" connects to the vacuum hose that runs from the top-side of the EGR valve. The other side of the "T" connects to the TGR valve. The other part of the "T" connects to the vacuum gauge. Right? During the KOER test, am I to follow the instructions and turn the steering wheel/pump the brakes? If so, will the vacuum gauge keep the readings registered? Or do I just let the test increase the idle and watch the gauge so I can see what is going on?
Yes on the "T" connection.
Don't worry about the Steering wheel/Brake part of the test(may not apply to your model).
Just watch the gage the first time, skip the WOT test (you will get code 77 and maybe 25).
Then do it a second time with the WOT test.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:19 PM
  #534  
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I gotta say ...

Steve, This has been a long challenging and complicated thread ... You have hung right in there like a champ, got a little frustrated/confused for a bit, but recovered awesomely ... I am impressed!

Bill, Vincent, Hats off for sticking it out ... That's Sticktoitiveness!

Kudos to all ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:24 PM
  #535  
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Test completed. In the slow KOER mode (using the Actron) the needle barely moved on the gauge and never passed beyond the zero. The Actron called for me to pump the brakes and turn the steering wheel. I did not do that. The Actron asked me to hit the throttle once. I did that but it was lame.

Codes were 41, 34, 73, 74. Going to test again and give a better throttle response.

Originally Posted by vjsimone
Yes on the "T" connection.
Don't worry about the Steering wheel/Brake part of the test(may not apply to your model).
Just watch the gage the first time, skip the WOT test (you will get code 77 and maybe 25).
Then do it a second time with the WOT test.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:30 PM
  #536  
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Second test run with a better throttle response. Codes are back to 41 and 34. Still, the vacuum gauge reads 0. It moves in the ) range, but doesn't move out of the range.


Originally Posted by vjsimone
Yes on the "T" connection.
Don't worry about the Steering wheel/Brake part of the test(may not apply to your model).
Just watch the gage the first time, skip the WOT test (you will get code 77 and maybe 25).
Then do it a second time with the WOT test.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:44 PM
  #537  
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Originally Posted by sgauvry
Second test run with a better throttle response. Codes are back to 41 and 34. Still, the vacuum gauge reads 0. It moves in the ) range, but doesn't move out of the range.
Photograph your vacuum gage connection.
Slowly increase your Idle from under your hood to 1900 rpm.
Record the vacuum.
 

Last edited by vjsimone; Jul 21, 2016 at 12:45 PM. Reason: Adding text
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:51 PM
  #538  
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Did the 1985 have the actuator test ("Output State Check") after the KOEO and Continuous Memory sel-test was done like the mid 90's trucks did?
If they did he could turn all of his actuators on and check to see if the EGR solenoid wire goes to ground.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:51 PM
  #539  
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Got a BIG 0! Cannot photograph it. My wife took her iPad and camera. She's a personal chef and takes pics of her food.

So here's the connection: one side of the "T" connects to the hose that typically connects to the EGR valve. One side of the "T" is connected to a small hose the I rigged so as to connect to the EGR. The bottom portion of the "T" is connected to the gauge.

What are your thoughts?





Originally Posted by vjsimone
Photograph your vacuum gage connection.
Slowly increase your Idle from under your hood to 1900 rpm.
Record the vacuum.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:54 PM
  #540  
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Originally Posted by subford
Did the 1985 have the actuator test after the KOER sel-test was done like the mid 90's trucks did?
If they did he could turn all of his actuators on and check to see if the EGR solenoid wire goes to ground.
That test is done during KOEO, it is one of the first test.
 
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