When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That test is done during KOEO, it is one of the first test.
Yes it is KOEO self-test but after the Continuous Memory codes are done if the accelerator pedal is pressed once and release and most of the actuators (relays and solenoids) will change state. Then each time accelerator pedal is pressed and released the actuators (relays and solenoids) will change state.
NOTE: The fuel injectors and fuel pump are not energized during this test.
Yes it is KOEO self-test but after the Continuous Memory codes are done if the accelerator pedal is pressed once and release and most of the actuators (relays and solenoids) will change state. Then each time accelerator pedal is pressed and released the actuators (relays and solenoids) will change state.
NOTE: The fuel injectors and fuel pump are not energized during this test.
Not sure what happens next. I am assuming there's something wrong with the EGR or the vacuum supplied to it. I have to make a run somewhere but will be back shortly.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
What I am looking to get you to do for Code 34, is "T" into the ERG Valve vacuum connection. Watch and record the different vacuum during the KOER Self-Test. You will need a vacuum gage, a vacuum “T”, and short piece of vacuum hose.
The test increases the idle a few times, during these increases the ECA will signal your EGR Solenoid to open its valve and allow the vacuum to be applied to the EGR.
There are always multiple possibilities for a single code, I think I would start there.
Got a BIG 0! Cannot photograph it. My wife took her iPad and camera. She's a personal chef and takes pics of her food.
So here's the connection: one side of the "T" connects to the hose that typically connects to the EGR valve. One side of the "T" is connected to a small hose the I rigged so as to connect to the EGR. The bottom portion of the "T" is connected to the gauge.
What are your thoughts?
Seems there is no vacuum to your EGR.
Do you have a test light?
I don’t like where this is leading… There is a vacuum reservoir covering your EGR vacuum solenoid about two bolts thru the wheel well holding it down. Spray them with penetrate, again, again, again, again…….. Just in the case you need to remove it later.
My project truck is 25 miles away, so I can’t remember if you can get to the EGR Solenoid connector or not. It is the 3rd Solenoid back from the engine in a row of 4 solenoids. Let me know before going further.
If you can’t get to it;;;;;;;
Be so very careful here, none of those parts under this box are available. There is a black hose, one of two, connected to this reservoir, the black hose is connected on the other end to a plastic manifold, a very fragile manifold, a non-replaceable manifold. Do not disconnect any hoses. Get this reservoir lose, and carefully lift it back towards the firewall, moving it as little as possible. Put no strain on the black hose, it will crack the vacuum manifold.
Would you give me a call at 717-761-3879? Or I can call you if you want to send me your phone number. My email is: steven.a.gauvry@gmail.com.
That'll be vastly easier and quicker. Thanks!!
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Seems there is no vacuum to your EGR.
Do you have a test light?
I don’t like where this is leading… There is a vacuum reservoir covering your EGR vacuum solenoid about two bolts thru the wheel well holding it down. Spray them with penetrate, again, again, again, again…….. Just in the case you need to remove it later.
My project truck is 25 miles away, so I can’t remember if you can get to the EGR Solenoid connector or not. It is the 3rd Solenoid back from the engine in a row of 4 solenoids. Let me know before going further.
If you can’t get to it;;;;;;;
Be so very careful here, none of those parts under this box are available. There is a black hose, one of two, connected to this reservoir, the black hose is connected on the other end to a plastic manifold, a very fragile manifold, a non-replaceable manifold. Do not disconnect any hoses. Get this reservoir lose, and carefully lift it back towards the firewall, moving it as little as possible. Put no strain on the black hose, it will crack the vacuum manifold.
The unit is disconnected and moved toward the firewall. I found the connector with two red wires and one green wire. It is the last connector (closest to the fender).
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Steve, as shown in the schematic above, you are looking for the connector with the Dark Green wire.
Should be 2 red wires in the other side of the connector.
Let me know if you find it.
Careful the wiring harness & vacuum hoses are intermingled, and very fragile....
Careful the wirng harness & vacuum hoses are intermingled, and very fragile....
The unit is disconnected and moved toward the firewall. I found the connector with two red wires and one green wire. It is the last connector (closest to the fender).
ok, sorry, it is the next one twards the engine, second one from the fender.
a. 12 vdc on both sides of the EGRV connector? (With key on)
he has 12v both sides.
b. Disconnect connector, check resistance of the coil, I usually get anywhere from 40-75 Ohms.
he has 43ohms.
c. Use his jumper to ground the ECA side of the EGRC connector to turn on the solenoid and look for vacuum at the gage. (Key on & engine running)
Solenoid’s works both ways. no vacuum at the EGR.
d. Remove black hose at the reservoir to check for source vacuum.
he has 20Hg on the red hose coming from the manifold.
Nothing on the other side of the reservoir. (Blocked)
he unblocked the reservoir. Still no vacuum at the EGR.
He found a leak on the manifold feeding the vacuum to the solenoids.
We have stopped here. Good luck fixing that…..
Last edited by vjsimone; Jul 21, 2016 at 03:42 PM.
Reason: Adding text