Yea I have been thinking of that and will flush the condenser and hoses (new last year), everything else is being replaced.
Dave ----

 

When I made this post back in May, I had intended to recheck after 1 month.


Original post was 5-18, so it looks like I forgot about it for 2 months.

It slipped my mind and I never remembered to check in June, but I remembered this week and pulled it out. So I can safely say that ATF by itself does not appear to eat or dissolve rust. Both sides of the torque wrench are still rusty.




I poured half of the ATF out and replaced it with kerosene. We'll see how well that does at loosening rust. And I guess ATF-acetone will be what I try next.

 

Vinegar might work.

 

Well considering it's just surface rust on the outside, I would be hesitant to let it soak in vinegar, because what if that was to damage the inner workings? Vinegar dissolves rust but it can also be harmful to rubber and can even damage some kinds of metals.

 

Maybe, and I don't know for sure, soak a cloth in vinegar and wrap it around the handle??

 

I got all the parts for my AC rebuild, now if it just was not so HOT!
If I dont go out later today when it cools off I may get up early like 1am or 2am when cool to get her done.

I also need the truck to do the weekly trash run and depending how I feel there is a cruise in Sanford that starts around 2pm I may go to if I get the AC done and working and rest a little before hand.
Dave ----

 

Well it was not 2am but 4am I got out to the garage to work on the AC system in the PU.
I replaced the compressor, evap coil, dryer, orifice valve.
Flushed out the hoses and condenser as they were only a year old.
I also had to swap the clutch on the compressor over as it was also only a year old.

When I went to install suction hose from dryer to compressor the dryer side was to tall with the new dryer and the hood would hit it.
I tried to use a tubing bender on it and broke the bender I have had it since high school and it worked really good, need to find another like it.
On that my son popped into the garage and he said why not use MAP gas torch?So a little heat and exh pipe to bend over it now cleared the hood.

Pulled a vacuum for 30 min and it held so I pulled a deep vacuum for 2 hours while I put tools away and my son pulled the right side fog / driving light from the bumper as it stopped working. Found the bulbs bad he got me new ones then run off to work and I got stuck putting it back together, light now works!

When I went to charge the AC I had 2 12oz can in and the high side did not come up? Then found I had the gauge set valve set wrong.
The system called for 13lb 12oz of R12, and being I was going with 134a it should have been 3.75 12oz cans I got 4 in the system opps.
It now blows cold, did not measure the temp, and the dryer & suction hose to the compressor and part of compressor had water dripping off themso I call that good.
Now I hope it stays that way as I am tired of messing with it between leaks, ALL O-RINGS have been changed now, and the compressor going bad this last time.
Dave ----

 

Dave sounds like you had to put a lot of work into the AC system, I hope it works well for you for at least 10 more years so you don't have to mess with again.

Yeah GLR soaking a rag in vinegar and wrapping the handle might do pretty good for that surface rust! For now though I am trying to sort out the internet myths about how much affect ATF and kerosene or acetone have on rust.

So I built this 87 Mazda pickup about 7-8 years ago for my friend Frank. He took it before all the test-n-tune was done, overheated it, dogged the **** out of it, and when he started having problems pushed it into the back yard to sit under the trees for a few years. He begged me a couple of times to come get it and fix it but I refused because it was too much work to shoehorn that 302 into the engine bay. I told him that if he cleared a spot (on cement) at his house, I would HELP him work on it there. He said ok but he never did that. Now he had to move away from his house in Angier, so I let him bring the truck over here so I could give it a thorough once-over. I can see that due to a radiator leak, he refilled it as needed with plain water, and then when it sat for 7 years, the plain water caused the freeze plugs to rust through. At least one per side but obviously if you are that far into it you would just replace them all. Also, the fuel won't flow very well. I have a feeling the sock is clogged. There's so much crap that it will clog the filter within minutes (initially anyway) and now it won't even flow hardly at all even using my vacuum pump. So I need to drop the tank and see whats going on there. It's more work than I want to do for a friend for free, so I told him not interested at all in trying to replace those freeze plugs, but I don't think he can afford to have a real mechanic do the job so he said heck with it he will just sell the truck. So now I am thinking I might buy it and try to fix it right. Give it the chance at life that it was denied! lol


87 Mazda B2600 with a Ford 302 out of an 85 Cougar. AOD trans and Holley 2 barrel.

 

For the second time in exactly 2 months i just had to change the rack and pinion on my mustang because the boot seals started to leak on the new one. 2 months ago i had to change it because it failed internally making the boots balloon to watermelons. Now i gotta find someone to do the alignment because the place i usually take it to is back logged for the next 3 weeks. Cant wait that long.

 

I would be happy if I got 5 years with out issues with the AC.
It was not that bad swapping the parts out other than the hose that needed to be bent to clear the hood.
With the 300 six you have all kinds of room

So you may end up with another project
I hate to ask if he sells it what is he asking for it?
Guessing it needs a motor at this point and complete fuel system.

Spark when the rack is replaced dose the upper or lower suspension undone to change settings or is it just toe that needs looking at?
Dave. ----

 

Sparky, crazy that only get 1 year of use before needing to be replaced again!

Dave, I told him I might be interested and he said "ok I'll get the title as soon as possible. whatever you think it's worth". So now the ball is in my court. I was thinking 1500 is fair but IDK.

 

usually just toe gets messed up. But causes some other fun issues too.




right now the steering wheel is also turned to the right a little for going straight.

apparently everyones backed up for alignments. Earliest i can get in is next week.

 

I went ahead and pulled the trigger and bought the little Mazda truck from my friend. I need another project like I need a hole in my head, but I digress. For the past few days I have been working to address the fuel delivery issues. Even putting my vacuum pump directly on the hose from tank would only get a tiny amount of gas to trickle through. So I knew I had to drop the tank to investigate further, which is a pain because one side of the exhaust system is jammed up pretty tightly against it (not directly touching the tank itself, but jammed up against the 1-1/2 inch wide rim that goes around the mid-point of the tank. The joys of cramming too much motor and trans into a small package!



The old tank was pretty rusted, so I put this one in back in 2014-2015. After washing the grime off, it still looks pretty new.


Back when I put this together initially, I had removed the (non-functioning) in-tank pump and replaced it with a section of fuel line and a screen pickup. I can see everything is still in place.


But trying to remove the hose reveals the problem, it is completely ruined by the fuel! The hose is very ooey-gooey and separates as you try to remove it.


Same with the screen filter, it is like black tar gummed on it where the fuel line was.


The vent hose on top is dry rotted (I only took a pic of the lower, the upper which goes to the filler neck is also rotted and cracked).

I spent the better part of Thursday afternoon going to NAPA, O'Reilly, Autozone, and Advance trying to find the correct fuel line for an in-tank application. NAPA can order it for me; $39.99 for 1 foot. Likewise, O'Reilly can order it; $41.99 for 1 foot. Autozone and Advance, well they never heard of in-tank fuel line and couldn't help at all. I realized defeat and came back home so I could order it off the internet, $24 for a foot is still pretty steep though and now I have to wait until approx Wednesday for it to arrive. I also need some 5/8 hose that is suitable for gasoline, and to be honest the kid at Autozone did not inspire any confidence in me, I was 99% sure he was going to cut me a piece of heater hose, so I just said "nevermind" and left. Hopefully I can find a part number to give them next time so I'll feel better about what I am getting.

 

Well I am glad you got it as I had crazy thoughts and really did not need another project, I got to get going on the Javelin!
I do have to give you credit for working on it in this heat even if in the shade.
When I got home from work yesterday I did not even want to wash the mudd off my truck I got at work looking for a empty trailer yesterday morning.

On the hose might try a boat place like West marine, if there is any around here, for the fuel hose.
Boat tanks are placed all over in boats so they dont use pre-made hose.

On the pickup fix I think I would get more tubing and a compression fitting (flares would work also) that fits the tube and run it down low in tank and see about getting a filter sock to fit the tube. You should be able to get the sock from the parts stores after they order it or on line.
This way you dont have to worry about that hose turning to goo again.

If you dont have a flaring tool if that is how you want to go, I have one you can use.
May have tubing too, flare fittings I would need to look for as I am not sure I have them.
Dave ----

 

Yes I would like to see you get that Javelin on the road!
I do have a tubing bender and flaring tool, and a roll of 5/16 line, but I think I'm going to go with the submersible rubber fuel line. That way I don't need to be exact or even close to it, just leave it a little long and let the weight of the screen inlet keep it all the way down touching the bottom of the tank. Especially since I already spent the money for the submersible stuff.