As long as it dose not turn to goo again then it should be ok.
Being I am cheap and having the tubing and tools I would go the metal tube route but thats me LOL
Dave ----

 

If I had thought of it before I spent the $24 I might have tried that route. Although it will be hard to cut the line on the pickup tube and put a flare on it, you don't have much room to work around. The way I did my Mustang, many years ago, the pickup was rusted at the end for approx 2 inches, which would leave you sucking air even with 4 gallons in the tank. The pickup was 5/16 and the fuel sock was long gone, I just gummed it all over with JB weld and slid a new piece of 3/8 over it, gently slid the float assembly into place letting the bottom of the tank push the 3/8 as far as it needed to be, then pulled it out and let it set up for 24 hours. Has been golden ever since! Now when it runs out of gas you can bet that tank is bone dry

 

Now when it runs out of gas you can bet that tank is bone dry

I liked that
Dave ----

 

Hope everyone has been doing well.

Well I been using the truck to / from work the last 3 days and I got to say the AC has been working great.
At 2am it will freeze you out and had to turn up the temp. I think the evap has been icing up as it will blow a little warmer just before I get to work and if I shut the AC off while moving stuff from PU to work truck I then see a big puddle as the ice melts.

Coming home when it has been in the 90's it cools the cab down pretty good, even cut the fan speed back once or twice.
If it stays that way for a few years I will be a happy camper.
Dave ----

 

That's great news on the AC, glad you got that working good. I worked on the fuel system the week before last; the fuel pump would only come on when I crawled underneath and tapped it with a screwdriver handle. That could be a nice anti-theft feature, but I decided it was better to replace it. Of course with a fresh fuel pump and everything else working, the carburetor started leaking. It has a Holley 500, I pulled off the float bowl and found the accelerator pump gasket was dry rotted. I went through my box of carburetor parts and found some Ford accelerator pump gaskets, but no Holley ones. The Ford's are square and Holley is rectangular.



If you find yourself needing something carburetor related, let me know. I have a big box with all kinds of stuff in it.


I had 3 Ford accelerator pumps in my box but they were no help on the Holley! It's a rectangle but the Fords are square.

This week I've been messing with the AOD linkage. It is completely fabricated so I'm trying to use geometry and math to solve the question of where to put the thing that pulls the TV cable. By trial and error I could see that the previous placement was pulling too much; by half throttle the TV had pulled completely tight and if you forced it to WOT then it would pull the cable through the set screw on the little bob. I have the LOKAR cable kit which came with it's own bracket for the AOD end and it looks like approx 1/4" inch of cable travel will bring it through the complete range of motion. So by finding the pivot point on my homemade bracket and using that as my starting point, I made a mounting point 1/4" away directly in line with the TV cable. That way at full throttle (which is 90 degrees from idle) it should reach full TV motion. It took two tries as the first one I made had the mounting point a little below the line which meant that for maybe 1/4 of pedal travel, it still had not started to pull. So my current attempt has it a little bit better.


This is my starting point, my bracket fabrication from a few years back. Anywhere I wanted to try a mount, I could drill a hole and go for it.


After transferring the most important points to a piece of scrap steel, I made a smaller simpler bracket. However it didn't engage the TV well enough at low throttle.


Attempt #3 (on the left) compared to attempt #2. The mount will be a little higher in relation to the pivot point.


Nobody supports the AOD for some reason, but not to be discouraged, my homemade fix will eventually be right.

 

When guys use a aftermarket carb with the AOD they have the same issue you have and if not right can hurt the transmission.
I did not know the stang had a AOD in it?

Did you get a new pump for the carb?
I can check my box to see if I got one.
Dave ----

 

I know I put those Mustang valve covers on the engine, but it's actually from a Mercury Cougar. It originally came with a throttle body injection and the TV used a rod. But being crammed into this engine bay the rod wouldn't fit because of the firewall, so I went with a cable. I first tried a Ford cable from a 5.0 era setup but I couldn't get that work well because I needed to come off the front of the carb (due to clearance issues) instead of the back which is the way it was designed, so I found the Lokar kit which is adaptable for a lot of different mounting options. But it assumes you have a point on the throttle linkage that supports your transmission and in my case I didn't!

My last test drive (due to no cooling system, I only pull out in the road and drive three houses down, turn around and come back; 30-45 seconds) I saw my 1-2 upshift at about 2500rpm. I definitely want that to be much lower, maybe 1500. So it's still too tight, I have loosed by 1 full turn on the mounting cable and will test it again later today.

I got a new accelerator pump from the O'Reilly's by you, they had one in stock and was only 10 bucks I think. I would have texted you if I thought you had one laying around, but I didn't figure you to have Holley stuff in your collection

 

I have a Holley pit box with different gaskets jets etc I took racing with me.
Don't remember what all I got in it now as I have not been racing for years now
Good to hear you were able to get one.
Dave. ----

 

When you said you did not know the Stang had an AOD, I took it that you meant that you thought the motor trans combo came out of a Mustang, but now I am thinking that you must have my 2 ongoing efforts mixed up. The 302 with AOD is in the 87 Mazda pickup, that project has a bad radiator and rusted out freeze plugs. But at the same time, my 66 Mustang that is a 289 with C4 has been starting to run hot and the coolant looks very dirty. Usually I have to flush my system every year or so and I think August made the one-year mark. I just went and got the Mustang brought it home so I'll have some pictures to upload later.

 

Yep got them mixed up but it dont take much to do that to me

I will check for the evap rust either later to night or tomorrow early, I am off for my monthly eye needle, and drop it off when I do the trash run some time after 8am when they open.

Not on the pickup but was work:
I was off Tuesday because no work / weather, so I figured lets cut the grass as it needed it.
Well the last time I cut it I picked up one of them fence builder signs that nail to the post, in the front tractor tire.
It had 2 prongs per corner, total of 8 prongs, well 4 got in the tire

So I used 4 plugs in it, already had 1 plug from something else?
The other front tire had a thorn stuck in it that I could not pull out so in it went and a plug in that tire also.
I think I seen 1 vary small leak in the 5 plug tire and if it gets to bad I will replace both front tires as they are showing some cracking.

With the tires now holding air I spent 4 hours cutting the grass, got to love a big yard ......... not really LOL
Dave ----

 

Dave I got a whole pack of tire plugs, I bet I used 20 of them over the past 10 years for lawnmower tires, and only maybe 3 or 4 for car tires! lol

I started on the cooling system in the old 66. Last night I drained the cooling system and filled two clear jugs.


The radiator cap is a little crusty but I have definitely seen it much worse on this car.


Difficult to get the light and the camera over the hole at the same time. You can see a thin layer of rust. But also in person you can see a lot of the passageways are partially blocked by little bits of rust.


I used a rag over the funnel to strain out the bigger particles, nonetheless you can see this ain't green anymore! May be a green tint but it's definitely brown and rusty.

I had to work last night and then slept til about 11am this morning, so I didn't get started on it as early as I wish I could have. I was prepped for flushing it but I knew I'd be laying in it getting filthy, so I decided to go eat lunch first. That meant I didn't really tackle it until about 12:30. Usually I just connect a garden hose to one of the heater hoses and let it run to flush the entire system at once, but this time I decided to take it a step further and individually flush the radiator, the block, and the heater core.


I keep most of my old radiator hoses just for cases like this. Cobbled together with some PVC pipes and fittings I can make a flush kit for almost anything.


Backwards radiator flush. Hose connected to the bottom, and overflow coming out the upper radiator hose. I ran this 5 minutes.


Backwards engine block flush. Hose connected to heater hose outlet on intake manifold, everything blocked off except for the lower radiator hose where I let it run out for about 5 minutes.


Backwards heater core flush. Connected hose to the outlet and pushed the inlet down between header and shock tower. Very dirty! I let this run for 5 minutes also.


Messy job! I'm filthy and wet from laying down in it, now you can see why I wanted to go eat FIRST.

Next step, refill the system with water and add 2 dishwasher packets then go for a drive. I first learned this trick a few years ago when I accidentally added about a quart of motor oil to the F100 radiator. Bonehead move, but I still blame it on Walmart having motor oil and engine coolant in the same color / similar size containers! Anyway the same abrasive grit that cleans baked on funk off your pots and pans also cleans and scrubs and loosens rust inside the engine. I figure I should drive around for an hour or so and then come back to flush everything again. After that, I'm going to do the Evapo-Rust treatment that Fuzz dropped off for me.

 

I did see the 2 containers when I dropped off the jugs, I have seen worst.
You got started just as I was getting home from the eye doctor for my monthly needle.
So for the Clayton show it should have the evap stuff in there doing its thing then

What coolant were you running in it before?
Was it a pre mix 50 / 50 or 100% and you added water?
All I have been able too find is 50 / 50 mix and so far think it has been ok / no rust in the pick up.

In my drag car rules say NO ANTI FREEZE! only water because if it leaks on the track they cant really clean it off.
Because of that I did run 100% water but I added 1 or 2 cans of water pump lube and anti rust to keep the system from rusting up.
I got to say after a full year of it being in the motor when I drained it to put anti freeze for the winter no rust at all.
Maybe add a can of the pump lube / anti rust before you put coolant in for good measure?

I just washed the truck little bit ago in the rain to help save some water.
Been a month since I last washed it and I have driven on some dirt / mud roads at work looking for trailers a few times and bug guts that needed to be removed LOL
Dave ----

 

Last time, I bought full strength anti-freeze and diluted it with water. I wasn't able to find it at Autozone but Walmart had it. This time, I just bought the pre-mixed. But I still have the dishwasher soap in there, I only got to drive it for 45 minutes before I ran out of day. I had to get dinner going and now that it's later in the evening, it's raining and dark so I will just drive it to Clayton tomorrow and move on the next step after I get home.

 

I ran the car for 2 hours (total, combined) with the dishwasher soap in it. After draining that mix, I refilled with fresh clean water to rinse and went for a 5 mile test drive. I overheated and had to pull over. Seems I didn't wait long enough for the engine to take in the fresh water and once it did, it sucked up everything that was in the radiator, so I was a gallon low! It was 1am and my wife was fast asleep, luckily a guy in a Ranger stopped and offered to bring me a container of water.

I was looking for empty jugs to hold the old coolant, and as I was going through containers I had around the garage I found 1-1/2 containers of fresh new clean coolant. At first I thought it must be old coolant that I forgot to label, but when I poured it into a clear container it was completely fresh and green, no sign of rust of crap at all. The other container was very deep green, so it does not appear that I ever even diluted it. I will do the same flush job on the F100 next and use these 2 containers up. But I want to get a coolant filter setup first, like me and Dusty talked about a year ago. After I order one and get it with all the fittings I will tackle that project.

I confirmed the evapo-rust is not harmful to aluminum, although I am still not sure if it's ok to use it as a coolant. So, I never drove with it in there although I did start the car a few times during the soak to let it mix through the system and bring fresh stuff around to the worse areas. Luckily I screened the evapo-rust through a paint filter before adding it to the engine, one of the containers had a lot of funk at the bottom! I had to pour out the remaining 1 inch because it was basically sludge, and then rinse the container really good.


After letting it soak for 8 hours, during which time I started the car and let it idle until thermostat opened 4 different times, when I drained it I saw it was very dark. So Fuzz I don't know how much life is left in the evapo-rust now, but I definitely think it did some work on the rust inside my cooling system.

Second backwards flush today of each individual component; radiator, heater core, and engine block. Lots of dark black stuff initially but never really saw much as far as chunks of rust or grit.

 

Sorry about the sludge I did not know it was in there or I would have said something

Who know the next time I will use the stuff or on what?
I hope I can remember that its been used pretty much to end of life maybe..
As long as it works for you.
You going to give it a try in the 100?
If so I think you will need to leave it in longer.
Dave ----