A friend dropped it off....like he did with a lot of things he thinks I might want

 

Tested out my new pinpoint grease gun i got for work... already planning to get another for home since ill need it for the bike ive been neglecting... but tested it on the vintage grease points that are on the swing arm bolt and the clutch actuator... watching the old grease that came out of both of them was like watching something pooping... the old grease was black and hardish..

 

Son said he is looking at places but not going to hold my breath.

Been a long time since I played with the Ford 6 and what size motors the cars had and you are right John but I would still measure to see if a 300 can fit in place of that little six just so I would know.
BTW do you know why it dose not run, motor apart or just not run in a long time?

I did not know they had any rear axle smaller than the 8" and had a removable cover till they made the Pintos and Mustang II size cars.

We got Tony's bug running.
He did not have enough advance timing to get it to run. but ...........
I got it running and went to tighten the dist. hold down clamp and hardly got it tight and the motor shut down?????

I did see the dist. pop up a little and when checking found the dist. was not engauged anymore?
I thought it was the dist drive slot not fitting the motor side so we filed it some and some more ...
Also when test fitting and not going in all the way I felt the dist. hitting something but could not see anything?

Tony went to the parts store for things and I started looking it over and found the dist. body was hitting the hold down clamp.
When Tony got back I showed him what was going on and a little grinding on the hold down and everything fell into place.

I think between not enough timing and then the dist not staying in place is why Tony could not get the bug to start / run.
Dave ----

 

Well it's great that you got it figured out and he's ready to run now! I bet that pertronix distributor will give him better ignition than his old points distributor, now that it is dialed in better.

I just did some googling and it looks like Ford put the 7.25 in light duty applications from 62-82 and at that point it was replaced by the 7.5.

The young guy I got the car from said he thought about fixing the motor up, but the rebuild kit for it cost more than buying a used 302, so he had decided to pull it and go that route. He's disconnected everything except the motor & trans mounts. It was sitting without a hood on it for a while, not sure how long, and the carb had no air cleaner, so I'm assuming it got water down in there. However using just my hands I felt like I was able to move the crank about 1/16th so unless I imagined it, the motor is not locked up. He pointed to the rust coming out of the thermostat housing and said that lead him to believe the motor was junk. Little does he know I've driven worse for 15 years and still running, hahaha. I may tinker with it and see if I can get it to fire up, I'm sure somebody would want a running 200, however I doubt if I could even give away one that is locked up.

 

Tony said the car sat for 2 weeks as he could not take any more of it and was at wits end.
With no easy way to crank the motor and see what was going on did not help him any.

Sometimes it is fun to see if you can get them running if it dose not take too much $$
I could not give a way, think it was a 170 running good from a 60's Bronco we pulled to go with a built 302 / 351 heads, big cam for off road racing. That thing ran so good guys thought it had a chevy motor till I popped the hood and they sh&t! when they saw a Ford small block.
Dave ----

 

It definitely sounds like a 2 person job to troubleshoot that problem on Tony's Bug. I had no idea that was going on, I hadn't seen him or talked to him in quiet a while. Maybe now he'll be out and about more, although he did say work is much busier now than before so I'm sure that will affect his free time.

The Ford car 6 does not have a following like the 300 truck motor does, they are hard to get rid of! But I still want to mess with it and see if it runs.

 

Had to put a new wheel bearing in the 250 today. It went out on way home from work Thursday, and ended up having it towed home. Went ahead and knocked out the Axle shaft U joint while I had it that far apart. Those U joints really tested that puller.

 

From my previous posts about my brake issue, you might remember that whenever I would start the engine, the brake pedal would go down as the pressure from the power steering pump built up in the hydroboost. My theory was that due to sharing a return line with the power steering box, it just couldn't evacuate the pressure fast enough.

So I made the decision to put a hose barb bulkhead into the housing of my power steering pump.


This is the bulkhead I went with. I wasn't sure about the amount of surface area for sealing, so I JB welded a washer onto one side, and then when I installed it, I used a soft copper washer on inside and outside.

I stuffed a paper towel down inside before I started drilling, and I packed the step bit with grease with hopefully catch all the shavings. Between those two cautions I think I got 99% of anything that came through.

I put a 7/16 bolt with washer on both sides in the hole first and cranked it down nice and tight, so completely flatten any wayward jagged edges, etc. Made sure it was smooth to the finger on the inside and outside before fishing the fitting into place.




I positioned the hole high enough to avoid the internals of the pump, but low enough that it should be completely covered under normal operating conditions. I used tape on the inside of an open end wrench to hold it while I fished it in place, and then pulled the tape out with a little grabber thing.




With the hose in place and my tee removed & replaced with a short section of 3/8 line, it seems to work fine. No leaks (yet!) and the brake pedal does not move on it's own when I start the engine now. I can put the truck in reverse and it will idle backwards, whereas before I had to give it gas to overcome the brakes. So I think this particular problem is solved. I'll road test it tomorrow and see how she does.

*knock on wood*

 

got my new mower deck painted today finally. Have had it a few weeks but the weathers not been cooperating to paint it. The old deck wasnt salvageable. BUT i can still use all parts off the old deck and put them on the new deck.

 

What did you coat the under side with as they rust from under out.
Dave ----

 

it was powder coated black to begin with from the mfg. right now im just painting it to match the original color it should be. Once i get the color coat done i was thinking about spraying the underside with some kind of bed liner.

 

I wonder if red glyptal would be a good choice for painting the underside!

 

Well it looks good for an orange machine

At first I was also thinking bed liner but it would be hard to clean / hose off once in a while that I do mine so as fast as it popped in my head out it went LOL
If it was powder coated then that may be enough for now till stones start chipping at it.

Also I dont know what all would stick to powder coat as a 2nd top coat like Glyptal?
I also dont know how strong Glyptal is from chipping?
I know it sticks pretty good in the lifter valley of motors.

Between season's I should pull my deck, clean it and coat it even if it just paint, as it is hard to find a 60 inch deck for my model JD tractor.
The deck weighs a ton, to remove you have to lift the front of the tractor to then slide it out, a PITA, then flip it up to work on it.
Dave ----

 

Well I took yesterday off as a sick day to finish my motor, and ended up actually sick today but I muscled through and atleast got the old girl bolted I place...

Yesterday..






And today




It's bolted to trans, and torque convertor then i set the distributor in and got thermostat back in place. Probably all im going to do today as im not feeling the best. Hopefully tomorrow I can get it mostly buttoned back up.

 

Man, look at the size of those intake ports!