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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

The "Mule" Build

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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 07:28 PM
  #286  
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A little update on my build, got a call from my machinest and theres good news and bad,

The good news.....

block is machinable but at the price of .030 over
The crank shaft has no scoring and just needs a good polishing every thing on the engine is going to be standard size, so far so good.

The bad.....

The valve seats are bad probably going to need new ones, all the valves are bad they are worn out to the point they fill like razer blades. The block has to be bore out .30 I was hopping to stay as close as possible to stock but o well, the cylinders that are damage was because the piston ring went out, they made a bad groove on the cylinder wall, the good part only those two had the severe damage.

Already contact Clay with a private message, regarding the rebuilt kit.

I will keep giving updates as they come.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 07:46 PM
  #287  
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May have been asked already but how was the piston oil jets ? I would also put a new set of lifters if the kit doesn't come with them.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2016 | 07:56 PM
  #288  
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Thats why I pm clay to verify whats on the kit, I heard the lifters can be rebuild by a company just forgot the name of them, gotta check that I think they do the set for $80-100. As for the piston oil jets they looked fine not broken, or any visual damage that I could see. According to the machinest the piston ring broke of due to carbon build up on that cylinder piston.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 08:43 AM
  #289  
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Good to hear on the block & crank! Now since the heads need seats & valves. The real question is do you go with stock valves and seats or some upgraded seats & valves. If so what brand or type of valve seat is out there.

I ask because I am going to be building a 460 this summer for my motorhome and valve seats are an issue with the 460.
But on a 7.3 is there any better then stock valves & seats on the market?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 08:55 AM
  #290  
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
Thats why I pm clay to verify whats on the kit, I heard the lifters can be rebuild by a company just forgot the name of them, gotta check that I think they do the set for $80-100. As for the piston oil jets they looked fine not broken, or any visual damage that I could see. According to the machinest the piston ring broke of due to carbon build up on that cylinder piston.
Also connecting rod small end bushings not included. Have your machinist check condition of those. Piston pins in these are full floaters.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 09:00 AM
  #291  
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Adam,

I'm confused. I know I could go back and read this thread again. Is the engine in the shop the one that has about 800,000 miles on it? I think that one is still in your truck? I'm curious what it will look like when you tear it down.

Sounds like you might get this engine rebuilt for a pretty reasonable price. Main reason I'm confused is due to reading the "Whoa..." thread. It takes awhile for my brain to normalize.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 09:09 AM
  #292  
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Looking good build her right and she will go well beyond 800!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 09:34 AM
  #293  
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Originally Posted by fordman67
Also connecting rod small end bushings not included. Have your machinist check condition of those. Piston pins in these are full floaters.
They are to cheap not to replace. 52 bucks
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 11:59 AM
  #294  
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Originally Posted by Bob_T
Adam,

I'm confused. I know I could go back and read this thread again. Is the engine in the shop the one that has about 800,000 miles on it? I think that one is still in your truck? I'm curious what it will look like when you tear it down.

Sounds like you might get this engine rebuilt for a pretty reasonable price. Main reason I'm confused is due to reading the "Whoa..." thread. It takes awhile for my brain to normalize.
No, I had a spare e99 complete engine thats the onr being rebuilt, my 812k engine is still on my truck and going strong, well not strong as it has a ton of blow by, but performance hasnt changed.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 12:03 PM
  #295  
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Originally Posted by BadDogKuzz
Good to hear on the block & crank! Now since the heads need seats & valves. The real question is do you go with stock valves and seats or some upgraded seats & valves. If so what brand or type of valve seat is out there.

I ask because I am going to be building a 460 this summer for my motorhome and valve seats are an issue with the 460.
But on a 7.3 is there any better then stock valves & seats on the market?
I plan on keeping it as close as possible to std size, he said we can shim the valve springs, no need for new ones, valves just plain stock, he said std size is still doable so new std valves, I just had a call from him litteraly 5mins ago that the valve seat will pass the machining process.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 12:05 PM
  #296  
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Originally Posted by fordman67
Also connecting rod small end bushings not included. Have your machinist check condition of those. Piston pins in these are full floaters.
I got to look into that I didnt even know, ill ask him today. Thank you for the info.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 02:44 PM
  #297  
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Just a heads up hes puting it back together not me, hes got over 200 7.3 under his belt, so he will put it back together.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 03:09 PM
  #298  
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Originally Posted by fordpride
They are to cheap not to replace. 52 bucks
I agree...hence my statement.
They will have to be honed to size at the machinist so there will be 100-150 plus the bushings.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 07:03 PM
  #299  
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Ok just came back from the machine shop, and my machinest said that the bushing on the rods are in perfect shape and said they can be re-use but recomended me changing them anyway, where can I buy them?

Heres the pic of the bushing wrist pin and the piston that caused the problem



All of the bushings looked like that and he said the tolorences were dead on




 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 07:35 PM
  #300  
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Clay has them on his site for 52 bucks
 
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