When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The dash swap should be done hopefully tomorrow if not Sunday so I'll be uploading lots of pics tonight and tomorrow probably on both my threads, just a heads up lol.
Sounds good matt I'm gathering parts so you can come out to washington and do the same on my truck.
What would you guys think of vinyl wrapping the pillars gloss black? I personally like it on crew cabs but i have never seen it on an extended cab though.
Also small update form my dash swap thread i got going.
Dash swap is looking killer. The switch panel looks sweet in there too. IMO no vinyl on the pillars. At least if your going for the black look between the windows. Looks tacky to me.
Just ordered some new PMF pinch weld covers so i can POr my pinch welds. the plan is to eventually install some Recon Big Rig lights and tie the ICE function into the AMP lights so they illuminate when my steps fold down. I also ordered some Billet door locks to match the chrome on the interior with some black accents.
Brake lines blew today just as i was about to finish my swap too... I'm pissed they blew but happy it was in the drive way at least. Does anyone have any recommendations or know of any prebent/ flared kits? i would like stainless or the nickle copper i think they are called lines. something resistant to rust because I'm going to do the entire truck ince the rest are pretty bad as well.
Are you referring to the solid lines or flexible hoses? May be time to learn how to flare hoses if its the solid lines. Considering you have done so much already, seems as though you have a good grasp on mechanicel and elctrical stuff.
Are you referring to the solid lines or flexible hoses? May be time to learn how to flare hoses if its the solid lines. Considering you have done so much already, seems as though you have a good grasp on mechanicel and elctrical stuff.
I know how to flare and still will pay for a pre bent/flared line. They are such a pain in the but to get to look decent. I did a full set on my explorer, guy on YouTube, made it look so easy.
Yeah my solid line brole but im going to do all the lines. I know how to fkare them but honestly I'm going to get prebent/flared lines because I just want to get the thing backnon the road lol. Plus im going to do all the lines because if one went the others are not too far behind I bet especially if yiu look at them they are kinda sketchy looking. I want something that's more resistant to rust even tgough I plan not to drive it in the winters anymore since ive got the expy now.
Will do, thanks man! Iv'e never done brake lines before but i don't mind learning. I'm going to run all new lines though since if one blew the others probably arn't that far behind it. What do you guys think about SS over ni-copper lines?
Also sincei need to remove the tank for the brake lines that go behind it I'm contamplating doing an excursion tank swap and removing the spare tire . I found a complete tank/skitplate/sending unit for cheap so it's definitely a possibility now lol. Plus the added weight of the gas in the rear will hepl with traction in case anyone was wondering if i had more than 1 reason
Will do, thanks man! Iv'e never done brake lines before but i don't mind learning. I'm going to run all new lines though since if one blew the others probably arn't that far behind it. What do you guys think about SS over ni-copper lines?
Also sincei need to remove the tank for the brake lines that go behind it I'm contamplating doing an excursion tank swap and removing the spare tire . I found a complete tank/skitplate/sending unit for cheap so it's definitely a possibility now lol. Plus the added weight of the gas in the rear will hepl with traction in case anyone was wondering if i had more than 1 reason
My Ni-Copp did great on the Ranger last winter. The fittings on my stainless hoses rusted though. The tough part about the stainless is it depends on the grade. For example 304, 316, 430,.... all different alloys with different chemical makeups. Some are more machinable others are more chemical resistant. The Ni-Copp just turn light green from oxidation. I can say that nickel and copper are 2 metals often used in making common grades of stainless steel. They are chosen for their chemical resistance, so I would just go with those. Ni-Copp can be installed without a bender. It is very easy to do. You will need a double flaring tool though.
What do you do about the fuel door for the excursion tank? Could you keep both tanks...?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.