I should amplify my speakers so the subs don't drown them out, Justin what kind of amp do you have? I already have some decent Kenwood 6x8 speakers.

 

Its a kenwood excelon. 60w per channel 4 way amp. It's really nice quality but I'm thinking of upgrading to a 100w x 4ohms

 

Thanks Justin!

So I have been looking into getting a cummins swap to pass here in MA without having to do a commonrail which is not worth it IMO because of all the extra electronics and parts that need to be purchased as well as the initial engine cost being much higher.

I found this site for Mass (Massachusetts Vehicle Check) and from reading this, as long as I can get my OBDII port to read as if the 5.4l was still there and not throw any codes or emissions issues ill be fine because the rest is visual inspection. Any idea's how to fool the system? lol.

BTW I'm making progress on my dash swap check out the dash thread it's almost completely out.

 

Kind of random, but I was working on the Ranger front axle today and I wanted to show you my antisieze obsession. We had a conversation a few weeks back about this stuff and your F150 should be very similar to my Ranger as far as front axle assembly is concerned. When you service the front axle, use it on the spindle so you can actually get it back off again. And in the channels for the seals too.

 

Cool man thanks! BTW not sure if I told you or not but I received the track bar bracket.

I have a list of mods I plan to do this summer here they are:
-08 Dash Swap
-Paint interior Black with charcoal accents
-Black Carpet
-DS2 HID conversion
-Remove 2" rear blocks
-Paint Flares Black
-Power mirror motors
-New door glass to fix scratches (new seals and channels as well)
-Tint windows (Brow?)
-Metal Door handles painted black
-Touch up plastic trim
-New Sub box
-Lift rear seat for more leg room / sub box clearance

Possibly might do the following
-Remove bed and POR under side
-Speaker AMP
-Replace 05 Bumper with OEM bumper
-Build sealed AMP step boxes

My reasoning for painting the bed last or not until next year is because if everything goes according to my plan I will not be driving the truck in the winter anymore and I will continue to drive my Expy and the 95 in the winter instead. I have decided that since I spent so much money on rust repair for the bed and paint that I do not want to compromise it by getting it salt covered each year. It has been 2 winters since it was done but I still want to make sure it lasts for a long time. Also towards the end of this summer I might start acquiring cummins swap parts so that I can start my conversion next year as well.

 

No problem and good deal. I hope it does what you need it to

That is a very ambitious plan for your truck. I hope you can pull it all off. I'd love to do that much, but with owning a house cash does flow as freely as I would like.

When you talk about rust repair, I had my truck done at Ziebart instead of doing it myself. They don't pull the bed, but they have a lot of nifty little nozzles and sprayers to get the stuff in everywhere. They cleaned and prepped as well. I got it through the dealer I bought the truck through and they charged me $500 for that and to diamond gloss the paint (also worth it). And they best part is you can take it back every year to have the undercoating cleaned and touched up for a small fee. I may pull the bed to get the spots they can't get, but I am extremely happy with it.

You may want to look at these too. Wheel Well Liners « Rugged Liner
They are $100 and I call that pretty cheap insurance.

 

A pretty decent arch, but nothing too extreme. I'm gonna be wrenching on the truck today after work, so I'll try to get some pics.

 

Cool beans man thanks!

Yeah... i realized how much i put on there after i submitted it but oh well those are the things that i want to get done lol. My girlfriend brought up a funny point she said "you spend all this money on this truck and the one thing you have not fixed since you got it is these god damn window scratches..." lol which is true but i just keep forgetting about them but they are really bad, so bad i can't use my side mirrors at night because the lights from cars behind me light up all the scratches. The first few things all go hand in hand with my dash swap though because a black dash with light grey interior looks weird lol.

Also good deal with the Zeibart man thanks for the info! I think I will still end up doing my bed myself because the supports are scaling and look kinda sketchy so i want to clean them up and replace them if needed anyway.

 

No problem.

Lookie what I just found.... 1999.5-2004 F-250/350, Excursion Replacement OEM Trackbar Mount

 

I had looked at that but its welded and not being sure what I really need I figured your bracket was a better choice. It looks nice though, all their stuff id very well made.

 

Big things happening in the Dash swap thread! check it out guys (link in my sig)




Also fixed my door lock wiring while the dash was out and all the other wiring hack jobs that were done. Wiring is back to factory right now until I install the remote start which IMO will be much better than the previous job.

 

My Dash swap is nearly done just have some wiring to do, I will post finished pics on here, the process to do it all is in my 08 Dash swap thread linked in my sig like i said before.

Also ordered some parts today, LED reverse lights to mount to my bumper and a 4 channel amp to run the speakers in my doors. Depending on how the reverse lights look I may tint the lens myself to keep them more hidden. I want to get an 08 rear bumper which is flat along the bottom and IMO looks better with small light bars mounted to it.

Reverse Lights:

Amp:


I will be relocating both Amps, one under each seat. I also ordered ne battery terminals and some wire. For the wire i went with NVX because i have read great reviews on them. I purchased some 0/1 gauge and 8 gauge wire to run to a splitter and then from the splitter to my amps.

Terminals:
NVX XBTPN08 Positive and Negative Battery Terminal Clamp with 4

Wire:
NVX XW8BL20 20 ft. of Blue EnvyFlex 8-Gauge Power/Ground Wire Cable
NVX XW8GR5 5 ft. of Gray 8-Gauge EnvyFlex Power/Ground Wire Cable
NVX XW0BL5 5 ft. of Blue EnvyFlex 1/0-Gauge Power/Ground Wire Cable

Fused Splitter:
NVX XFDBU2 Fused Distribution Block 0/1 Ga Input + 4/8 Ga Outputs

Speaker Wire:
NVX XWS16100 EnvyFlex 100% OFC 100 ft 16 Gauge Speaker Cable/Wire

4 channel RCA's:
NVX XIX45 5m 16.40 ft 4-Channel X-Series RCA Audio Interconnect Cable

Steering wheel controls adapter for the 08+ steering wheel:
PAC SWI-RC Steering Wheel Control Interface - Sonic Electronix

 

I am very curious too get your take on the quality of those backup lights. Post pictures because the price is right

 

If you haven't already ordered it I would've sold you mine. That's the exact amp I have right now that I'm debating on getting rid of for a higher power one lol.

I also would suggest 4 gauge but I tend to over engineer sound systems.

I would also suggest a 1/0 fuse block about 2-3 feet from the battery

 

4 gauge??? How much current does that amplifier draw?

4 gauge is rated for 70 amps at the lowest insulation. 8 gauge is rated for 40. These are by the NEC.