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I have the thing I can put on the engine hoist to turn it so I can get the engine and trans to the angle I want.
If I was doing it I would take the trans off by it's self, simply because it is easier to handle in two pieces, it's only 6 bolts and 4 nuts. I used to be able to take a c6 out in about an hour
I don't now how good your hoist is, the 7.3 is around 900lbs and the trans is another couple hundred. I had to go to a 8 ton jack on my hoist, the 2 ton thatr came on it didn't last long
I think the IDI is a little heftier than 900, but i dont know first hand. I know we bought a 1200lb engine stand from NAPA and the 7.3 put a pretty good sag in it. Bent the spine permenently.
Would you ever consider some type of VVT turbo, and use a stand alone controller from fleece?
That could net some massive low end TQ.
Thought about it, I would never pay 2k for that controller though that's my problem. I have a friend that does computer programming that I would see if he could work on something before I ever paid that much. I could have a nice laptop to control trans and turbo before I could even afford the controller, that being said, on the next build I want to use one, or two, a 6.4 setup. But on this truck I just want simple mechanical horsepower, and not have to worry about tuning a turbo to work(even though my 5r needs tuning it will only take a day or so)
I just believe there is a lot more to getting full potential out of a vgt than boost pressure is all. And I got my engine and trans out in one swoop. Took about half an hour after i got my bolts out cause I had everything ready to pull. Do I have to pay any special attention to the timing marks when I take ip gear balancer and cam gear off, or can I time it when I put it back together by just lining everything up?
you just line everything up, you still have to fine tune the ip when it is running.
I run mine one tooth advanced on the pump gear and fine tune the ip by ear like a distubtor witch isn't the right way but it worked for me, I don't notice more power, one mpg on the one and 3 gain on the other, but both of them are worn out.
you just line everything up, you still have to fine tune the ip when it is running.
I run mine one tooth advanced on the pump gear and fine tune the ip by ear like a distubtor witch isn't the right way but it worked for me, I don't notice more power, one mpg on the one and 3 gain on the other, but both of them are worn out.
I can say first hand that this isn't the best advice. Fine tuning the IP by ear is a poorly fitting bandaid... You cant tell what is going on by ear, and what is going on my ear isn't a good measure of what the engine is doing. The dyno doesn't lie, you would be surprised what equates to what as far as tuning is concerned. Even I have been surprised by my own "assumptions" even with dyno time... It is highly dependent on setup, and even a stock setup cant be effectively setup by ear. I realize not everybody has the access or time/money for dyno tuning, but your best bet is to get the thing timed, try a few different settings, and see where thing feels the best, not sounds the best. Just my two cents.
Last time I took it to ford to have it timed, that's not the timing I am talking about however, the cam gear and all of those gears getting timed is what concerns me, when I tore apart my 7.3 block I never had to worry about putting it back together, I want to be able to get this one back together. And just I am shooting you an email I ran into some trouble I want you to look at.
I can say first hand that this isn't the best advice. Fine tuning the IP by ear is a poorly fitting bandaid... You cant tell what is going on by ear, and what is going on my ear isn't a good measure of what the engine is doing. The dyno doesn't lie, you would be surprised what equates to what as far as tuning is concerned. Even I have been surprised by my own "assumptions" even with dyno time... It is highly dependent on setup, and even a stock setup cant be effectively setup by ear. I realize not everybody has the access or time/money for dyno tuning, but your best bet is to get the thing timed, try a few different settings, and see where thing feels the best, not sounds the best. Just my two cents.
I didn't word that very well, For a power build you shoud do it the right way so you know your exact degree and can find the sweet spot,
By ear worked for me because the nearest shop that can time it right it 80 miles away and when they rebuild my ip I wasn't fully satified by what they did. I've also read that advanceing the ip gear messes with the timing device.
But for timing the gears them selves you line up the dots. My crank has one dot that matched the two dots on the cam, the cam had a "Y" to match the ip gear, I bought a chilton's that covered my year and Haynes Diesel repair manual, I used it for most the build.
A helpful hint that isn't covered in ethier book, blow with compressed air your bearing off after you clean them and before you install them
the cam gear and all of those gears getting timed is what concerns me, when I tore apart my 7.3 block I never had to worry about putting it back together, I want to be able to get this one back together.
I read that right after I posted, thinking duh I've only looked at it a hundred times on my way to the forums. So all I will have to do is line up the Y's and the dots, no tdc things then, sounds good to me.
Has really slowed my progress lately, but, all that's left in my block is a cam and crank, so it should be sent out this week along with my heads, man am I nervous. And found the reason for my HUGE oil consumption...two pistons had broken scraper rings.
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