AE class is in session!
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
I'll have to see if I can find it again, but was reading thru either my Ford shop manual or the Ford powertrain control/emissions diagnosis manual, and there are several test where you need to run the engine at WOT for 3 min before taking a reading.
You'll want to do this in stock setting as some tuners disable the rev limiter.
You'll want to do this in stock setting as some tuners disable the rev limiter.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Finally got out and recorded some data, ICP never went over 2500 even at WOT and went up to 48 duty cycle. Anyone see anything bad here? I get the injector pressure high/low sometimes and it runs rough. Ran great today...
stock 7.3
stock 7.3
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
I'll have to see if I can find it again, but was reading thru either my Ford shop manual or the Ford powertrain control/emissions diagnosis manual, and there are several test where you need to run the engine at WOT for 3 min before taking a reading.
You'll want to do this in stock setting as some tuners disable the rev limiter.
You'll want to do this in stock setting as some tuners disable the rev limiter.
One other thing I've noticed with AE data I recieve: Many people will use all three MAP readings, two throttle readings (% and volts), two ICP readings (PSI and volts), and various other duplications of sensor readings. The PSI, %, temps, and other readings are derived from the voltage... so multiple instances of the same reading just hogs sampling time and data space. If you suspect one particular sensor, you can get this detailed for testing. If you want to see the overall performance of the vehicle, you should do everything you can to pare down unnecessary readings.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
I got my AE in the mail today. My EBP is 2.5 psi higher than my MAP so I guess it is time for a new sensor. My MAP and Intake Manifold Absolute reading are the same so it looks like the EBP is bad. I have checked it withing the last 5k miles or so and I had no soot build up at all so I don't think it is just dirty.
My mileage kind of sucks and I pull heavy with it normally so I think it is better if I get a new sensor than just run with this one. What do you guys think?
My mileage kind of sucks and I pull heavy with it normally so I think it is better if I get a new sensor than just run with this one. What do you guys think?
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
Some live with it high, and others fix it. I know what happens when the tube is open, and it has been documented that a high reading will harm MPG... but I haven't yet heard reports of improvement after the swap (other than my own experience). Mine was about 4 high. I don't recall if you clicked those last two links in my signature.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Great job on the scaling on your graph! That's utilizing the power of AE. Your IPR is a little high for that ICP. You could have tired sticks, an inaccurate ICP, a tired HPOP, leaky injector O-rings, air in fuel, or a few other possibilities. Any time I see an ICP/IPR mismatch on a stock truck, my first inclination is to look for air in fuel. You can do this test with the tank at 1/4 tank (or lower) and again at full tank - that can hint at air in fuel.
One other thing I've noticed with AE data I recieve: Many people will use all three MAP readings, two throttle readings (% and volts), two ICP readings (PSI and volts), and various other duplications of sensor readings. The PSI, %, temps, and other readings are derived from the voltage... so multiple instances of the same reading just hogs sampling time and data space. If you suspect one particular sensor, you can get this detailed for testing. If you want to see the overall performance of the vehicle, you should do everything you can to pare down unnecessary readings.
One other thing I've noticed with AE data I recieve: Many people will use all three MAP readings, two throttle readings (% and volts), two ICP readings (PSI and volts), and various other duplications of sensor readings. The PSI, %, temps, and other readings are derived from the voltage... so multiple instances of the same reading just hogs sampling time and data space. If you suspect one particular sensor, you can get this detailed for testing. If you want to see the overall performance of the vehicle, you should do everything you can to pare down unnecessary readings.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
I looked at % vs Voltage and it seemed pretty close on the ICP, how close should they mesh? i rebuilt the IPR, o-rings, not sure what else could go bad on it? I will do a full tank test and get back to you. I think injector o-rings are going to get done soon, although I have herd the newer ones rarely go bad but it does have 190k
At 190K, you might be able to extend the life of the injectors with O-rings... or maybe not. It is an inexpensive (but labor-intensive) gamble. Many have had big gains by doing this, and at least you'd have tended to/inspected everything under the valve covers. UVCH, glow plugs, and O-rings can all be replaced while you're in there. Some will say do the 50-cent mod. I say that's cheap... by every definition of the word.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
I haven't had a lot of time to play with it but here is my first graph. I was planning on buying a T500 since everyone talks about the e99 HPOP being weak. I did a couple of WOT runs and and peaked out at 2515 PSI and a 37.89 % duty cycle. Those are ok numbers for a stock tune truck isn't it? I was also defueling maybe since the new RR billet wheel was pushing my boost up around 23 PSI and my needle was bouncing. I haven't had a chance to put my regulator on it. SO do I need a T500 with these numbers or am I ok until I get some tunes?
Thanks again, looking forward to the next lesson Tugly!
Thanks again, looking forward to the next lesson Tugly!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 31
From: OKC, OK
I haven't had a lot of time to play with it but here is my first graph. I was planning on buying a T500 since everyone talks about the e99 HPOP being weak. I did a couple of WOT runs and and peaked out at 2515 PSI and a 37.89 % duty cycle. Those are ok numbers for a stock tune truck isn't it? I was also defueling maybe since the new RR billet wheel was pushing my boost up around 23 PSI and my needle was bouncing. I haven't had a chance to put my regulator on it. SO do I need a T500 with these numbers or am I ok until I get some tunes?
Thanks again, looking forward to the next lesson Tugly!
Thanks again, looking forward to the next lesson Tugly!
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
I haven't had a lot of time to play with it but here is my first graph. I was planning on buying a T500 since everyone talks about the e99 HPOP being weak. I did a couple of WOT runs and and peaked out at 2515 PSI and a 37.89 % duty cycle. Those are ok numbers for a stock tune truck isn't it? I was also defueling maybe since the new RR billet wheel was pushing my boost up around 23 PSI and my needle was bouncing. I haven't had a chance to put my regulator on it. SO do I need a T500 with these numbers or am I ok until I get some tunes?
You are already having issues with the stock tune (75% IPR is OK, but it doesn't scream "bring it on"). It could be a weak HPOP, but it could also be air in fuel, leaky O-rings, tired injectors, bad ICP or IPR, oil leak, or a couple of other things.
I have very limited net access where I'm at... so even a screen refresh may kick me. I don't know what hardware you have on your truck right now, but it looks like it may take a little effort and/or money to get your truck to 100%
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
By standing on my head at the hotel room door, and typing with my toes, I was able to get one more bar of signal. I see you have the Hutch and a prefilter. I had a prefilter, then I noticed my sticks pulled more than it could deliver. I replaced my fuel prefilter with a simple WIX disel fuel inline strainer.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
Thanks Tugly, if there are signs that the HPOP isn't putting out what it should, I would assume it is the HPOP (e99 15* pump) and not one of the many things you listed. Or at least I hope so since the truck only has 114K and runs just fine. I will be doing some more testing and runs this Sunday so if there is anything specific you would like me to show for an example, let me know and we can do some more learning.