That's a "Stinky Spike" on your ICP: Big ICP DC (IPR), low ICP... then a big jump in ICP after you let off the throttle. I've seen it many times on many trucks, but I first discovered it on Stinky and it took me a long time to suss out what was happening. This typically gives you good torque in the lower RPMs, but the truck tarries as the tach turns. As soon as the transmission shifts up, the permagrin is back for an encore. I used to work the throttle to make sure Stinky would pass while in OD... preventing the Stinky Spike Sag. There are a few possible causes of this, but I'll stay with the most common ones:

• Internal oil leak - be it tired injectors, O-rings, or whatever.
• Weak HPOP... or at least too weak to feed your injectors.
• Tuning.

That last one is really controversial and I've been torn between saying anything at all, responding to it only in PMs, or starting an open dialog. It's already too late to say nothing at all about tuning... so we're down to generalities in the open. In this case, it's DP and they are a great bunch of people, plus they are sponsors here... so I don't want anybody to get the idea I'm saying it's a bad tuner. I'm saying that this could be adjusted out with tuning (or not), depending on the condition of your vehicle. I won't openly disect any tunes. I can say this: Log the same thing with your 60 HP tune... and look at your 0-60 MPH (or 0-80 MPH) time.

 

Rich,

I re-oringed the injectors at about 160k as I was trying to solve an oil consumption issue. That's not to say that the install went perfect though...things happen. I'll add this...I was trying to track down, recently 1qt/800 miles of oil consumption. Did a Blackstone OA....nothing out of the ordinary. I had put 6qts of Rotella 5w-40 as make-up oil. Anyway it was time to change (7k miles), did it the same time as the OA. Went back to Rotella 15w-40.....I'm about 4k miles, maybe 1.5 qts low. What gives? Oil shear I think.

While I had the 5w-40 in I was getting a P1211 code...you know the one. New oil, no code.

I was watching the AE data stream and I notice that it appeared the HPOP couldn't keep up with demand.....it would spike and fall off, maybe build back....but dang sure wouldn't maintain PSI.

I did notice that it would kinda fall off after shift...feel real strong right after the shift and then wallow down a little and then rebuild power. It could be loss of boost....and that could be from the HPOP struggling to keep up?

The sticks are stock, and I have to admit to looking at 160's. Mongo like POWER!!

 

Losing oil is not good. I never had this symptom, so you may need some additional input to address it.

 

I re-read my post...confusing, gotta put the beer down and concentrate.

The significant oil loss was with the 5w-40 Rotella syn. Now that I've gone back to dino 15w-40 Rotella....I'm ok with 1.5qts on 4k miles. Before I changed oil I removed the fuel filter cap and had a look, also drew out 4-5oz and have it in a Blackstone bottle, just in case I need them to look at it. But it looks like clean diesel. No oil in the coolant bottle either. no leaks other than a minor seep at the dipstick-pan connection.

I think, just speculating here 'cuz I know nothing much about oil, but I think oil shear in the 5w-40 was the culprit.

 

Lets say I'm in the 80e or 120r tune,when I'm WOT and my ICP DC is like 75% and ICP is down to the 1500 and 1600 range,but with no oil consumption and no black fuel filter,that would lean more towards the HPOP getting weak correct? I understand the tuning thing but this has been getting progressively worse over time. When going WOT the RPMs will sorta get to a plateau but then feel like a kick in the seat when it shifts. Also could low fuel pressure cause low ICP because the fuel is not there for the RPMs being asked?..Thanks..

 

Low fuel pressure yes... and air in fuel will give you a low fuel pressure reading and low ICP as well. I see you have a pre-pump filter... I hope it's just the strainer type. I had a pre-pump fuel/water separator and it sucked my fuel pressure down by 40 PSI at WOT with the big sticks.


I yanked that separator out so fast that it put a shame to my VC-popping skills. I went to a pre-pump strainer and recovered 30 PSI at WOT (no lower than 50 PSI now).

Serious business guys - a fancy filter before the pump just causes all kinds of grief.

My stock sticks sucked the ICP below 2000 PSI at WOT with 80E. I installed the T500 and my ICP jumped to 2500 PSI with the same scenario. I went from the 80E to the 60E and got my 3000 PSI I was looking for, but my 0-80 MPH time didn't change... even though the boost was lower and the EGTs were lower. I must clarify - that was my truck with the condition Stinky was in at the time (pre-Hutch mod). Your results may or may not match mine... each truck is different after all these years/miles.

AE logging at WOT runs is a great way to find many sabotaging sensors and sickly systems.

 

G'day Tugly,

My Diesel driven laptop died, so I'm in need of a new one.

I read in the past that there where issues trying to run the AE Software with Windows 7 when it was released.
Now that the new laptops are at Windows 8, is there any issues running the AE Software on that system?

My version of the AE Software is 'PC Version 9.11* 3/15/2011.

Your expertise is much valued and I need some advice on this before pulling trigger on new Laptop.
Besides the operating system, do some laptops work better than others etc.

Much appreciated,

Cheers,
Reg

 

I have Win7 on my laptop and my carputer. The carputer has an Atom processor (small netbook) and it is glacier-melting slow. I have a "real" laptop with 8 processors and it's faster than I can click (first time in my life). Both computers have been connected to the truck and both behaved identical, once AE is up and running. I thought I would get faster logging (better sample rate) with the big laptop, but no... AE does what it does on any operating system it's compatible with.

As for compatibility questions, I am an end user - who just happens to know how to dive into software. I do not represent AutoEnginuity or anybody who carries their products... I represent us folk trying to muddle our way through aging trucks. For something as specific as what you ask, I'm afraid that's an AutoEnginuity question. I know how this works: You email those guys in a few hours from the time I click "submit" on the forum, then they don't open it until your late Monday night, and you get an answer on your Tuesday morning. I have dealings with your neighbors in Aukland, so I have their clock on my desktop. You guys are not even on the same calendar as us, let alone time zone.

Cheers.

 

I'm running AE on a Compaq laptop running Windows 8. I hate Windows 8 by the way,but yes it works.

 

This is getting too big. [LINK]

 

Ok,a couple weeks ago(on our return trip from RRE),my wife was driving and I was doing what I usually do while shes driving,messing with AE. Well,AE wouldn't read my speed nor would it read FIPW..any thoughts on this?..Phil

 

I have heard many times that there is a "lame" version of AE out there. Contact them and let them know, then they will likely send you a better version.

 

Since I originally purchased my AE I received an update putting the software to 11.0.1. I don't remember if it was showing correctly before or not. I was reading there is an AE update out now,I'm gonna send an email to them Monday..update to follow..Thanks..Phil

 

When I updated me AE things didn't work properly. I called AE and they informed me I needed to uninstall my prior version. After that was done it all started working. Definitely call their tech support.

 

Just got AE in the mail last week and am working my way through it and this thread. I felt like I was starting to know alot about my trucks until reading through this thread and realize my knowledge is infantile. My question is this. I was monitoring my trans temp in my automatic 7.3 because of a TC code. After I dropped it off at the shop to be fixed under warranty, I decided to plug AE into my mason dump with a 6 speed tranny. It only reads a max of 40 degrees on the tranny when warm and towing my 7k trailer. Does this mean my sensor is bad, or is it possible there's a setting I didn't correctly change? It does say Fahrenheit underneath the readout, but I'm not sure. The readout does change and fluctuate...also, what does WOT stand for, and what sensor/setting do I select to check my boost, if that's possible? I've always hated computers, but I think this is about the only reason I'm willing to overcome my techno weenie paralysis! Thank you for your time!