I guess I stand corrected. I would trust Rich more than me anyway. However, Rich, those numbers aren't horrible are they. If he had SS sticks it might hang on there. But like you said if there is air in the fuel or something else that could cause problems.
Does anyone else think think that 23psi is low with the new RR wheel?
at 23is psi with the

 

I saw 22-23 with mine towing a few days ago, but that is 1st Gen wheel. And I know I have some leakage.From what I have read I would expect more.

 

I i have a gen 1 as well but i have seen 30 psi before so i.would say 23 is low for the billet wheel.

 

Remember that this is an e99 truck so I have a smaller turbo an intake. I did a 2nd quick run. I just put my regulator on my map line and it looked like I gained 1 or 2 psi on my boost gauge. In comparison to my anti surge wheel, my gauge shows about a 3 to 4 psi gain with the new wheel. Again this is a stock tune and I believe that a performance tune would show higher gains from what I have read.

My Exhaust Back Pressure hit a high of 49.48 and was running around 16.2 at idle. Manifold Absolute Pressure peaked at 34.4 and was 13.4 at idle. Keep in mind though that that is with the regulator installed so the peak number may not be completely true.

As far as comments about what could be wrong like air in the fuel and things like that, what indicates that there could be an issue like that from the chart I posted? From what I have read, my numbers are right inline with a stock e99 truck. I appreciate all the comments and just trying to learn how to read the data and determine what if any issues there are.

What other indicators can I look for to figure out if I have an air issue or anything like that?

 

I did the Hutch mod because I was getting paranoid of the foot falling off. Once I got into the mod, I was dumbstruck as to what a poor design the fuel system was... and the added clear inline fuel strainer was a bubble machine, until I yanked the QDs. If you want to troubleshoot the fuel system, or tune your truck... a fuel pressure gauge is a must. I did a thread called "Chip Chasers" that covers all of this.

The boost is fine for stock, but your ICP/IPR indicates you will have issues with tuning [*EDIT - error here, explained in post #278] and your EBP is a lying liarface. Your EBP either needs cleaning or replacement, but it should match the MAP with KOEO.

My original HPOP with a stock tune was able to make 2800 PSI at 40% IPR, but fell flat with a big tune. The T500 gave me a huge jump in ICP with the big tunes, and I never saw 100% IPR again.

 

QDs? Does that stand for "quick disconnect's" Tug? I did the hutch mod on my truck already but are there any other connections besides the ones on the tank a person needs to worry about? I also used the wix inline filter but I've noticed I get one really big bubble in my filter that I just can't seem to get rid of.

 

Trying to keep this on topic and not just about tuning my truck, here are some questions/comments that may be helpful to better understand how to read the data. Sorry for asking so many questions and clarifications but this is a class right?

So what should the relationship between ICP/IPR be? How can we tell if one value is out of range compared to the other value? Is it a certain percentage that it should be?

So again, like example one, how do we determine the 75% IPR? My duty cycle only got up to 40% so I assume you came up with 75% from the relationship of the ICP/IPR? Also based on this taken from your link, it looks like my numbers are right inline with what they should be. Both my idle and Hard Acceleration numbers fall right within the guidelines below. I am on the lower side of ICP and the high side of IPR but still within specs.

1999-2003
IDLE WOT in neutral HARD ACCELERATION
ICP 475-490 1100-1200** 2450-2750 PSI
IPR 9-11% 18-21% 35-40%

My original question was based on my stock tuned truck. I would for sure put a T500 on when I get a tuner but that was not the point of my question. The point was, do I currently have a problem with these numbers on a stock truck? Am I currently seeing any performance issues with those numbers.

I have wondered if the canister style prefilter put any extra load on the pump so how do you tell if the fuel system isn't delivering enough to the injectors? Is that were a fuel pressure gauge comes in?

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, my EBP sensor is acting up and I have a new one with tube ordered from Clay. But to your comment, are you saying that my number of 49.48 is to high or to low? With the MAP being 34.4, subtracting my ambient MAP value of 13.4 from each, my EBP is 36 and my actual boost is 21. That is the way to figure it right? We are wanting these numbers to be as close to 1 to 1 as possible correct? With a flaky EBP sensor, I am just using my numbers for an example and the relationship between the two may be actually different with my new sensor.

 

Paring this down a bit:

1. I screwed up and I need to go back and correct the posts I made... and apologize to my good friend JT250. My wireless wrestle over the weekend landed me getting the two charts mixed up - one with a very high IPR waveform on a 50% scale and another with a normal IPR waveform on the 100% scale.
2. ICP Duty Cycle is AE's expression of our IPR... they are equal. 40% Duty Cycle is 40% IPR.
3. My stock truck with a stock tune gave me up to 2800 PSI ICP with 40% IPR... which are the ideal readings for stock. It should have worked well with tuning, but many factors were at play at the time and I can't be sure which of my actions solved the problem (if not all of them combined). I can say for sure that a T500 made up for a lot of shortcomings with the truck/tune combination.
4. Every truck is a little different... almost organic after all these years and miles. There is no "these are the two correct numbers."

I'll fix this mess a little later, I'm still unpacking. In the mean time, fuel pressure gauge answers many questions. I had a pre-pump water separator... until I had a fuel pressure gauge. The filter worked fine on stock tune with stage II sticks, but the elevated tunes had the needle flagging me down.

 

Thanks Tugly, I thought I had an idea of what things should be but then you comments had me all confused.

 

You did very well. One thing I like to preach here is to listen to no one person... because we all make mistakes, and others are not there to get the whole picture. You did your homework, it conflicted with what I was saying, and you called me on it. Great job!

An EBP of 16 and a MAP of 13 at idle screams bad EBP in the mountains or bad MAP on the coast. They need to be the same with the engine not running, and idle does not make a big separation in readings.

 

Subscribing.....way late,but a great read!!

 

I guess this still applies to the class so I will post it here. For my first question, is it normal for the coolant temp to be all whacked out? When I start the truck, it shows 320 then after some time drops to 3.20 then looks like it goes to a normal range in the 220 to 250 range. Is my sensor bad or is this a normal thing?

Second question is in regards to my MAP and getting the P1249 code. I am still showing that I am overboosting and kicking the code. I have installed the Overboost Annihilator so I think I need to adjust it down a bit. My MAP reading hit a max of 35.5 with a KOEO value of 13.4 So subtracting the 13.4 from the 35.5 gives me a value of 22.1 which appears to be kicking the code. My boost gauge is peaking at 23 so it looks like I just need to adjust the regulator and I should be good. Does this sound right to you guys?

UPDATE on my EBP sensor. My max value on the bad sensor hit 49.48 and was reading around 2.5 higher that my MAP value of 13.4 with KOEO.
The new sensor now shows a max value of 46.47 and .1 less than my MAP value of 13.4 with KOEO. So this shows that it was off by a fairly consistent value across the board. I will be taking a trip this weekend so we will see if it makes any difference in my fuel mileage.

 

1. There is no coolant temp on the 7.3L OBDII system. AE "guesses" at it from the oil temp, but AE is for gas and diesel... so it guesses very wrong. The only coolant temp indicator you have is the one on the dash.
2. You're on it. Good work sussing out the boost alarm.
3. Please let us know what performance/shift differences you notice.

 

I am going to be very unproductive at work tomorrow...............

Good work Tug

 

Why should tomorrow be any different then any other day.