FICM testing procedure
New User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
FICM
I have a 2003 F350 crew DRW and I was wondering after reading all of the posts, I have a #4 injector contribution fault and I was wondering if the FICM can cause this or if it is a injector only problem. I get a surging at cruising speed in normal drive mode, if I use tow haul and the RPM"s are higher there is no surging.
I was thinking that my transmission was going bad but now after reading here I think otherwise. Any input would be great, and by the way it sounds like everyone one here are some stand up guys. Thanks in advance!!
I was thinking that my transmission was going bad but now after reading here I think otherwise. Any input would be great, and by the way it sounds like everyone one here are some stand up guys. Thanks in advance!!
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Pheasant Hill, CA
From what I have read, a dieing FICM can cause those problem. Most of the time the injector needs to be replaced. The only way to know is to pull out a voltmeter and check the voltage output of your FICM.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
I have a 2003 F350 crew DRW and I was wondering after reading all of the posts, I have a #4 injector contribution fault and I was wondering if the FICM can cause this or if it is a injector only problem. I get a surging at cruising speed in normal drive mode, if I use tow haul and the RPM"s are higher there is no surging.
I was thinking that my transmission was going bad but now after reading here I think otherwise. Any input would be great, and by the way it sounds like everyone one here are some stand up guys. Thanks in advance!!
I was thinking that my transmission was going bad but now after reading here I think otherwise. Any input would be great, and by the way it sounds like everyone one here are some stand up guys. Thanks in advance!!
New User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Solder connection
brickie...awesome write up. I get everything you were saying...just hate to say it...I can't make out the good from the bad solder joints you were referring to. I think its great that here is another example of how we can take care of our own corrective mantenance of our trucks...without spending a small fortune paying someone else to DIFM.
Hi, good solder connections are usually shiny, bad ones dull, just apply a hot soldering iron, sometimes add just a bit of solder to fix them.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 675
Likes: 1
From: NV
(Once you get started in the Tech Folder you can spend a few hours and pick up much valuable information!)
New User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4
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I had to replace the number 4 injector and tested the FICM and there was a few bad spots in it. I did the connections on the FICM and the tested the voltage and everything runs great again. Thanks for the support guys!!!
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,871
Likes: 3,592
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If the injector voltage is over 35 volts, they run OK, although not as well as when it is 48 volts.
If the voltage drops below around 24 volts, the injectors cannot fire.
While most scan tools will display the FICM voltage, they do not always show the correct value.
For instance, AutoEngenuity can only display voltages between 40 to 56 volts, so if the voltage is 35, it will display 40.
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5a. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.
6a. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.
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If the voltage is above 46 volts in all the tests, your FICM is in excellent condition.
If it is between 36 and 45 volts its OK, but not great. If it is between 25 and 35 volts, you have serious FICM problems.
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If the injector voltage is over 35 volts, they run OK, although not as well as when it is 48 volts.
If the voltage drops below around 24 volts, the injectors cannot fire.
While most scan tools will display the FICM voltage, they do not always show the correct value.
For instance, AutoEngenuity can only display voltages between 40 to 56 volts, so if the voltage is 35, it will display 40.
.
.
.
.
5a. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.
6a. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.
.
.
.
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If the voltage is above 46 volts in all the tests, your FICM is in excellent condition.
If it is between 36 and 45 volts its OK, but not great. If it is between 25 and 35 volts, you have serious FICM problems.
I wish I could edit the first post, but this will have to do for now ......
Your FICM should be over 45V at all times or it is time to replace it. Personally, from what I read, I would be replacing it if it were under 46V.
Also, if the voltage is low, it needs to be replaced. However, even if the voltage checks good - the FICM could still be bad (components failed other than the DC/DC converter board).
(thanks for the post on correcting this Tim)
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Griffin, Ga
Great info! I 've been having a starting problem with my '04 6.0 - to the point where it won't start, so I justed tested the FICM and got a reading of 19. From what I've read on here I have a serious FICM issue but the good news is that I've diagnosed the problem. I'll be shipping my FICM out this afternoon. I just hope it's not too far gone.
Last edited by bopfly; May 2, 2011 at 01:47 PM. Reason: mis-spelling
New User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Yukon
Does the FICM only act up for starting or can it affect performance when all warmed up on the road?? stock 2005 6.0L staggers and surges at all speeds, starts easily but rough, noisy injectors till warm, Idles great, but then on the road (intermittantly starts stalling, stuttering. new oil and fuel filters, tried disconnected ICP, fuel pressure rock steady at 60 PSI. Nothing has worked. No Codes on my reader. maybe this is a topic for a different thread but I'm desperate!!
Last edited by purovida; May 26, 2011 at 03:13 AM. Reason: update
Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Have you checked your voltage at your FICM? Here's a good "how to" video:
YouTube - ‪Ford 6.0 FICM Testing & Removal Instructional Video‬‏
YouTube - ‪Ford 6.0 FICM Testing & Removal Instructional Video‬‏
Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
I just checked mine this weekend. 48.7v (key on/engine off), and 48.3v while cranking. My test probe accidentally touched the FICM housing and sparked. I thought for sure I fried it, but I tested it 3 more times after, and got the same results. Fingers are crossed.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 4
Mark is correct that 'just' because you have 48 volts doesn't mean that you have a good FICM, but low voltages are the #1 problem with them. Remember also that bad connections cause heat and heat kills or minimally shortens the life of electronics. I'd replace the board level components myself rather than simply re-solder and hope that things stay working for the long haul.
Ed
(begin shameless plug)
FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair
(end shameless plug>
New User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Yukon
I checked my voltages which were great, 47.9V while cranking, 48.6V otherwise. I took my FICM apart just to check it with a magnifing glass, it looked perfect, put it back in and connected it and my problems were gone. Either a connection was loose or taking it apart cleared its memory and capacitors or something. No issues since... how's that for weird??