Here is a fairly straight forward procedure to test your FICM (this is the same information posted in an earlier post, but this post will document the information for Tech Folder)

Thanks to SWAMPS who posted this procedure in another forum (link below). It follows TSB 08-26-3.

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 615pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=821 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 615pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 28992" width=821><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 615pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=821>http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43705</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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6.0’s, FICM’s and cold-start issues.

If your 6.0 will not start cold, the issue may be injectors, the glow plugs or glow plug controller, or it can be the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module). If after a long cranking with no start you get a lot of white smoke (raw unburnt fuel) out the exhaust, the problem is probably in the injectors or glow plug system. If you do not get any smoke, the problem is probably in the FICM. It is usually accompanied w/ multiple injector codes and a p0611 code.

The 6.0 injector has two solenoids on it; one turns the injector on (open) and the other turns it off (close). A few years ago, Ford came out with a new program referred to as inductive heating for the FICM, intended to combat issues with missing and rough-running during cold startup due to sticking spool valves in the injectors. This program works by running “extra” current through the close coil to generate heat and warm up the spool. On paper it was an excellent idea, and I advised a lot of potential injector customers to have their FICM’s reflashed rather than buy a set of injectors.

Based on my testing, it appears that the early models of FICM’s only used the inductive heating when the EOT was less than 48*F or so.
The “first” updated heating strategy turned it on any time the EOT was less than 184*F:

meaning every time you started the truck (if it had been shut off for more than 10 minutes) that the inductive heat was used!

Ford’s newest update to the heating strategy has it coming on below 148*F; better, but that’s still a lot of current draw.

Unfortunately, there have been some very serious consequences.
Although the FICM on the 6.0 is way more “intelligent” than the IDM on a 7.3, its basic job is to convert 12VDC to 48VDC and deliver this to the injectors at the proper time. Under normal operating conditions, the FICM typically draws 6-7 amps at 12V into the FICM power supply, which is well within its design limits.

However, with the inductive heating active this current draw increases to 24-32 amps—it pegs the 30 amp meter on my test bench! Although the FICM power supply is capable of sustaining this load for short periods of time (1-2 minutes) it eventually gets very hot.

If this was all that happened, things wouldn’t be too bad, but there are several components on the printed circuit board that were not properly soldered during the manufacturing process, and as the PCB heats up and expands, the solder under these components cracks and they lose their electrical connection.

The FICM’s 48 volt power supply is actually four separate or independent units; if one of the four goes down, the other three can supply enough current to run the truck, even with the inductive heating active. If two of the four go out, the truck will start and run normally as long as it is warm out. i.e. as long as the inductive heating does not turn on.

If three of the four go out, the truck will probably not start or run unless it is at full operating temperature, and even then it may not start.
If the injector voltage is over 35 volts, they run OK, although not as well as when it is 48 volts.

If the voltage drops below around 24 volts, the injectors cannot fire.
While most scan tools will display the FICM voltage, they do not always show the correct value.

For instance, AutoEngenuity can only display voltages between 40 to 56 volts, so if the voltage is 35, it will display 40.

How to check your FICM for proper voltage output.
(Perform this check when the engine is completely cold.)

1. Remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the cowl and push the reservoir out of the way forward and to your right. You do not need to disconnect any of the hoses.

2. On top of the FICM is a small cover held on by two #20 Torx screws; remove these two screws and pry the cover off.

3. On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.

PROCEDURE for 4 SCREW FICM
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=19314

4a. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.

5a. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.

6a. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.

The procedure is the same for FICM’s with 7 screws, except that you will be checking voltage at a different screw, as shown in this picture.

PROCEDURE for 7 SCREW FICM
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=19315

4b. Repeat step 4 above (multi meter step) but put the positive lead on the left-most screw in the row of 4 screws.
Do not let the probe short against the case!

5b. Same as 5a above

6b. Same as 6a above

If the voltage is above 46 volts in all the tests, your FICM is in excellent condition.

If it is between 36 and 45 volts its OK, but not great. If it is between 25 and 35 volts, you have serious FICM problems.

Swamp’s states that they are able to repair most FICM’s with low voltage problems, but some units may be either fried beyond repair, or the time it would take to repair them would be more than a good used FICM costs. If you send your unit in to them for repair, the price is $350.00. There is no charge if it cannot be fixed

They can also step the voltage up from 48 to 58 volts for an additional $50.00. All units have a 1-year warranty. Due to a lack of FICM cores, you will have to send your unit in for repair.

 

Nice write up Mark. Thanks

 

Here is a link to the "FICM GUIDE". It is also in our Tech Folder.

http://www.bulletproofdiesel.tv/Files/Documents/Bible/6.0L_FICM_Tech_Guide.pdf

Also, here is a little write-up on removing the FICM (note - be careful, the electrical connector tabs are easy to break off):

It is always a good idea to disconnect the batteries when working on electrical parts. Then, remove the FICM hold down bolts. After you have the bolts out you can lift up on the FICM and get to the connectors. These are a little tricky if you have not done them before. There are two tabs that must be pressed to disconnect each harness. The tabs are located right where the wires go into the plastic connector one on each side (right and left side not front and back). Squeeze the tabs with your fingers and work the connector off the FICM.

 

I have had recurring problems with the 350 dropping cylinders and surging,the ICP is less than a year old (I changed it last just before the replacing the FICM when i was chasing the surge issue) and the oil is mobil one.I have had this same issue a year or so back and a new FICM was the cure.So I pulled the FICM on the 350 without testing it,just to see if there were solder issues on the board.When I opened it there were 2 joints that were cracked and a couple that were suspect.I reflowed the solder and put a fresh dab on the joint, put it the works back together and wow there is a noticable difference in power and the truck is running excellent.So the Ex is next as it has had a loud injector or two and periodic hard starts with unburnt fuel smoke(whenever it wanted) and low power for a couple months.Test the FICM KOEO and get 27.8v pulled it out and did the same with it as the other one and test it again.What do you know same test 48.2v.The board on the Ex was in far worse shape than the 350, there were 4 joints that were cracked to the naked eye,plus that many more that were suspect.
I took the time to take some pics and try to make this as simple as I could.It was about a 3h job for me on each truck. The first couple pics are the were the ficm is and how to get it out.
The first pic is the method of removing the intake.The band clamp at the end of the snorkle is the only bolt and is 8mm.The degas tank tubes should be removed and both sensors unplugged.Grab the underside of the soft rubber snorkle and break it free of the other hard plastic at the turbo,and lift the intake out.
The next is the degas bottle moved with access to the ficm for testing.The front hose should be hooked back up so the tank doesn't leak.the bottle has two 8mm bolts.Pullut toward the battery and you have great access to the FICM.To remove it there is a bracket on the intake that has 2-10mm nuts and 2-8mm bolts and the two 13mm studs at the front of the FICM and two 10mm bolts at the back.Lift it up a little and unplug all three connectors.When reinstalling it make sure each connector makes two clicks to lock onto the FICM or you will chase your tail trying to figure why the truck runs like crap.

 

Tony - great post! However, the links do not work for me.

 

The next pic is the module on the bench opened up(it is the 350s and 4 post the Ex is 7 and orignal) with the back off.There are the screws under the top cover 4 or 7 of them #10 torx and 8 on back of the case #20 torx to remove.Once open the small board is the one you are after.The black covers on the resistors have to come off and then the 7 screws on the board are all accessable.There is yellow goo on the board and it covers some screws,I cut through it with a scalple and had no trouble with the screws,all of them #20 torx.From there it is a matter of pulling out the board and flipping it over to see the troublesome joints.
The next pic has the best photo I could manage of the cracked joints.Both rows under the glass should be reflowed and then soldered or the solder replaced.The last one was the resoldered board showing one half of the joints that need work.once done put it back together and in test it out and take it for a spin.
I suspect there are alot of trucks that eat injectors or have odd running issues that have underlying FICM voltage/solder, it is well worth the time to have a look at voltage wise IMHO.Both of my trucks had very noticeable positive results from my efforts.I have to stop drinking beer when composing these kind of posts,forgive the spelling and grammer LOL.Cheers

 

brickie...awesome write up. I get everything you were saying...just hate to say it...I can't make out the good from the bad solder joints you were referring to. I think its great that here is another example of how we can take care of our own corrective mantenance of our trucks...without spending a small fortune paying someone else to DIFM.

 

Gentlemen, I am following this closely and have the no start condition this AM! I have tested FICM at port closest to fender and initially(key off) got 36v and it then descended from there to 0v after a minute or two. is this thing fried or is there hope for soldering method?

 

Here is another shot.The rings on the solder joints are cracks.

 

I have an '04 thats been starting hard, rough idle, and no accel pedal response until it warms up a little. Sometimes it will die as its chugging and missing. Smokes quit a bit to.
Runs fine after start up.

Could this be related to this problem with the FICM?

I tested it early this morning after reading this thread. With key on it was at 28 volts until the glow turned off, then up to 48 volts. When cranking the engine over it stayed at 48 volts. The temp outside was 12 deg., block was plugged in.

Is that voltage drop normal when the GP's cycle?

 

Brickie what other spots did you solder. there are 8 places on each side of the board i think are for the capacitors? is there other places to look? i reflowed the solder at those 8 locations (16 all together) and got up to 37.3v.

 

Look for DrQuad's post named "fix your ficm!". He soldered 4 more spots on th other side of the board. There are pics posted in there. Gave him 10 More volts p to 48V.

 

Here are Dr. Quads posts on fixing the FICM.

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<TABLE style="WIDTH: 615pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=821 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 615pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 28992" width=821><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; WIDTH: 615pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=821>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/fix-your-ficm-242249/</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 615pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=821 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 615pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 28992" width=821><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; WIDTH: 615pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=821>http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44651</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Between Dr. Quad's generous "introduction" of this "possibility", Brickies post, and the various pics ...... it should help folks save quite a bit of money!

 

So how accurate the voltage reading on the FICM with the Autoenginuity software?
I'm asking, because my truck has a long cranking time and white puff at the mornings, but ONLY with certain custom tunes from Innovative. If I switch to stock or Spartan, it will fire right up. This thing bothering me, so I hooked up the laptop with AE, did a glow plug test, checked out OK, and I also checked the FICM voltage at starting, and it is a steady 48V - maybe some drop, but not major.
This makes me believe that the FICM is OK, but I'm just wondering if a "manual" voltage test would show different numbers, than the AE reading.....

 

I assume that you should wait for the truck to get cold before doing this test? I checked mine a few minutes ago but it's only been off for an hour after running a good two hours. Granted it's about 5*F outside but the truck was still quite warm. I didn't even mind working outside.

I'm going to check again in the morning once it is frozen through. I suspect I'll see the same voltage... a nice strong 48V.

So, does it matter much when you check?