Teddy...check this out...go to craigslist. Type in xbox repair...you would be amazed at how many local kids have the equipment that will re-flow your board....right in their garage or basement and probably for arounf $30. Its the same process they use to repair game systems due to weak solder joints from excessive heat.

 

Hi, once you have it out, it's easy to do, I wouldn't want to trust a $500-$1000 part to some kid who may not take it apart as nicely as someone who cares. Not saying none of them do but by the time you send it and get it back, you could easily have done it 100 times over. The other solution is to remove, take apart and bring it and the soldering locations to a local electronics repair firm, I'd think $30-$45 buck would be very fair for them to do it. It only takes 10 minutes maximum. Just my 2 cents on it.

 

Funny you recommended both, came back here just after ordering.......both.

I've been running Rotella t 5w40, just about ready for a change so I guess I'll wait for the HSS. I bet this stuff will help a lot.....sometimes you just have a gut feeling!

 

We have a very good marine electronics shop near me.......might want to try something like that as well.

 

Thanks a bunch. The batteries were both replaced in November. That was the very first thing I did since they were the originals and 5+ years old.

 

Um, yeah, I don't think I'd agree with that cabinman. No disrespect intended, but I think you may have stretched that a little. I tried it, didn't see any improvement after 2 treatments, and just recently replaced 4 injectors. I'm not saying DON'T TRY IT, just saying don't expect miracles. My .02

 

I bought my March build '03 brand new and have followed all of the 6.0's problems, flashes, warranty denials, etc since I bought the truck and the beginning of time for the 6.0. I have seen and heard practically everything and have witnessed all the crap from Ford as they were trying to scramble to put a band-aid on all of the problems with them. There are 2 things that I've taken away from all of it. First thing is that I was VERY fortunate to have bought a good one. It's had some problems, but less than any other vehicle I've ever owned.....and that's remarkable considering it was a 1st year model. The second big thing, and maybe more importantly, is the fact that all 6.0's, especially the '03's, are like snowflakes. You will NOT find any two that are the same! Even on the same build date!

I guess that's the reason that I'm willing to give this juice a try. So I absolutely believe your experience, D8chumley. But FWIW, there is no way in the world I would discount someone else's experience either.....not with these snowflakes!

 

Think you misunderstood me or maybe I didn't clarify...I meant to say take them the board...not the whole ficm? These guys do it right in front of you...litterally takes minutes. Seriously...you call them up, drive to their house, they flow the board and you drive back home and put the board back in. $30 bucks isn't bad, if you don't feel confident with your soldering abbilities.

 

makes sense I thought you meant send it somewhere, if your close to someone like that, that would be the ticket for those who aren't comfy with soldering.

 

I have a 2003 f250 6.0

So let me get this streight you clip the black (neg) multi meter wire to the battery and then test the FICM screw with the red (pos) muli meter wire?

Is the left most screw in the row of 4 screws the only one you test when you do all the tests?

What happens if you touch any of the other screws?

PROCEDURE for 7 SCREW FICM
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=19315

4b. Repeat step 4 above (multi meter step) but put the positive lead on the left-most screw in the row of 4 screws.
Do not let the probe short against the case!

 

Yes that is the correct way to test the ficm. Negative lead attached to the negative battery post. Touch the positive lead to the screw that is closest to the drivers side fender for the 4 screw version. For the 7 screw version, touch the far left screw in the row with 4 screws. Voltage should be no less than 47 volts with the key on, while cranking, or while running. If less than 47 volts on any of these, you have a suspect ficm. Do the ficm repair procedure in the tech folder, reinstall, and check for voltage. If still not the correct voltage, you need to look for a source for a new ficm. Just be sure you do not touch the sides of the ficm box while touching the screw head as it will ground it out. I usually clamp the negative lead to the battery so I only have to worry about holding the positive lead.

 

Here is a picture to clarify which screw to test on the 7 screw version of the FICM.

 

Thanks for the reply

 

Hi all, Looking for any help to determine if it is actually the FICM.

I just bought a 04' 6.0 with 150,000 miles. I had a rough start about 3 weeks ago. had to crank it about 8 times before it started but then ran fine for about 1 week then out of the blue driving to work my battery light came on at about 2200rpm and then went out at about 2000rpm. did'nt think much about it. then on my way home the same day it ran really rough on the way to the interstate and then it would not excel to above 65mph and once in while it would jump and buck and rattle if i excelled, i would let off and it would stop. I made it home and came across a thread about the EGR valves.
The next morning it started fine, it was about 25 degree F, but it would not excel above 10 mph it had idled for about 20 mins in the driveway. I was helping my son deliver newspapers and figured i would drive it to do that i didn't need to excel above 10 any way. it started to run better as i went and eventual could get it moving up to 40mph, but when exceling it would still do the same sputter buck and choke and blow black smoke when choking. So i decided to clean EGR that did not make any difference at all. It was very dirty. then i didnt drive it for 6 days went to start it and it would not start and have been able to get it to start since. i ran the batteries down trying to start it and figured i better charge them so i pulled them out to charge them and noticed that they are new Motocraft batteries and also looks to be a new alternator. These symptoms sound alot like many i have read about a bad FICM. Its still cold up in Northern Utah.
Looking for any help to determine if it is actually the FICM.Thanks

 

go to the start of the thred and do the test it might be your ficm thats causing it. your ficm might have wire's chafing on bolts, i believe there is a tsb on the 04 6.0l. good luck