Stealth EGR delete plate. Leave the cooler in place, and valve cleaned and acting normal.

If you want to be a hero, find an old EGR cooler, gut it, put in the delete pipe inside that.

Need I say more?

 

I think if you're going that far...just delete the cooler, replace the uppipe and overhaul the oil cooler while you're at it.

You don't have to be a hero...because its a proven solution for a failure in design.

Have you installed this Stealth delete plate? Can you send me a link to what it looks like? My guess is that altough the intake is not polluted from exhaust gases due to some inserted delete plate the egr valve (SENSOR) is going to throw a CEL on '05+MY anyway.

Does the delete plate maintain the cooler's connection to the up-pipe (IOT maintain stability of the up-pipe)? Since the delete plate (I presume) blocks off exhaust gases to the cooler, what is done in regard to the restrictive scoop in the upipe, since it would no longer be needed and the exhaust would then be restricted further creating excessive BP.

Just asking since you subscribe to this methodology of application.

 

Where I am, I have to be sure it passes a visual inspection, so the full delete is out.

Here is the link to the River City Block Off plate, but it does not have a pic....




River City Diesel Powerstroke Performance


It is on my "to do" when the weather warms up to 50F during the day...

Not a job I want to start when the temperature outside today is about 0F

 

Gearloose...yeah I'm with you on waiting for better weather...I'm not as brave as you...I'll wait til 70*F....I know about RCD's blockoff plate. The good thing is that you will in fact block off the exhaust from entering the cooler...but I would still address the up-pipe (remove it and dremmel the scoop away then re-install)...also without the exhaust flow, I'm thinking the EGR valve will be looking for it and throw a CEL without it. If memory serves me, you have a SCT right? If so, you probably already a custom egr delete file that will override the fault. Please post pics of your project when you do it.

 

Let me see... EGR valve is still there.. connected.

It operates as commanded by PCM.

Voltage will be normal.. motion will be normal... why would it throw a code.

SCT Tuner?

LOL you are joking. I have a $50 code reader.


Photos can wait until spring... if I wait for 70 degrees, that can mean July!

 

Somehow I thought you had a tuner...oh well. I agree with your points...just saying that things won't be as designed without the exhaust gas flow into the intake (as before)...so I would asume the EGR sensor would get a different reading and cause a CEL occurance? You must be in Alaska or Canada for those temps?

 

"
P0405 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low"



If you are referring to this code... that is a position sensor code that detects that the EGR valve is opening or closing like it is suppose to.

In the stealth delete, if you leave the EGR valve in and plugged in and it is clean, it should report movement fine (as long as it is operating properly).

It just doesn't know that although it is moved to the right position, there is no exhaust gas it is directing....


Yup... freezing where I am...

 

I was happy and relieved to see this fix for the FICM. After reading it and figuring it's GOT to be the fix for my rough cold starts, I went ahead and tested voltage this morning.

I did NOT remove my glowplug wire from passenger side battery, but I did test with the key on and also w/engine running.

With key on, I get a steady 52.5 volts. With engine running, steady 54 volts.

Now I am totally confused! How could it be this high? Having an SCT tune in there should make no difference, correct?

My truck is a March '03 w/140k miles on it. I have only had it to the dealer once at around 50k miles and had 2 injectors replaced under warranty. This was years ago and it's "possible" that they replaced the FICM at that time as well. Soon after, I put the SCT tune on it. Only other problem I've had with the truck was the ICP sensor, which I replaced myself, which was a b&#*ch!

Any thoughts on these high voltage readings? I guess it's possible that the rest of my original C94 injectors are not functioning well and that's why the rough cold starts. It always fires up though, does it's rpm ramp up when it's cold and finally cleans up and runs well a mile down the road. Not normal though, it used to run well and not stumble when cold. I have kept up on filter maintenance and just replaced fuel filters a few weeks ago. This weekend are balljoints and one front hub assembly plus an oil change.

I am dismayed that the FICM may not be the problem, I even went out and bought a new soldering gun for the repair. Now I don't even know if I should remove it to inspect it at all?

 

Hi, I don't think your problem is the FICM from what you are saying, I think it's a fuel injector/stiction issue based on what you wrote. With a money back guarantee, try HSS.. Hot Shot Secret from lubricationspecialties.com There is a lot of information on a long thread about it but while some people don't think it works, most people who tried it ( by a wide margin ) reported good if not great results and there's no risk with the money back guarantee. The product was specifically designed to deal with the injector problems and was actually developed at the request of International ( your engine manufacturer ) to deal with this exact issue. As far as the FICM.. the older ones from 03/04 ( some of the 04's ) had larger capacitors 58volts I think, maybe this is part of the equation. The voltages you have are great. Since you didn't have it reflashed since new essentially, you didn't likely get that terrible,, let me rephrase HORRIBLE, inductive heat strategy flashed into your truck that has caused most of the FICM's to fail. The latest re flash is supposed to be quite good and has greatly reduced the load on the FICM that the older mid flashes put on the FICM. You could likely safely reflash your FICM and perhaps see some improvement now. Without question, for $50.00 try that HSS and switch to 5/40 full synthetic first and see where that gets you. That is by far your cheapest and easiest potential solution. Good luck !

 

Hey Cabinman,

Should I use the HSS additive for the fuel or oil? Or both? I see it's $50 for the oil additive and $10 for the fuel. Is this product sold in stores? Pretty expensive and I hate to tack on shipping and handling as well.

To recap my 2004 6.0 issues. I am getting the 48V reading after about 2 seconds (if that) of 24V after key on. Then 48V when running. I'm reluctant to try the soldering trick on my FICM. Should I try the additive first?
Thanks

 

Cabinman, thank you for that great info. I've read about stiction but haven't heard of the hotshot. It only stands to reason that it'd be my injectors like I have always suspected. This is a fairly early '03 truck with the old style injectors so I'd bet it has the larger capacitors as you say.

I am going to order that HSS tonight. If it works, how much easier can it get? I know I'll eventually have to replace all of the injectors but like I always say, it's better than a monthly truck payment! I do plan on keeping the truck for a good, long while. It's always been a fast truck, even before "tuning" it, but the build quality has been awesome.

I'll post back with my results, you've been a great help!

 

Hi, I would run both the oil and fuel treatment.. The fuel in North America ( diesel ) sucks and unfortunately for us, they refuse to be smart and forward thinking and require all diesel fuel sold to have minimum cetane levels. Just as gasoline has octane ratings so you know what you're getting when you buy regular, mid or premium, diesel fuel sold should be required to advertise and guarantee a certain level of Cetane. When you add an additive like the one they are selling, it adds cetane and cleans the fuel system, also I believe theirs helps stabilize the fuel as well allowing for longer storage but don't quote me on the last statement. I just know they sell a product that does that as well. I hope this helps but really, even though it seems expensive, it's not. You pay somewhere between $8-$10 now for synthetic. If you do an oil change at the same time you add HSS, you will have to removed that much from your oil portion of the fill so you end up at almost exactly the same price with a whole lot to gain. Nevermind the money back guarantee ! It's a no brainer...

 

Cool. Thanks. Is it only sold through their site? Not a Walmart or Autozone thing is it?

 

I don't know the answer to that, I think if you're getting 48 while it's running, you should be ok but the 24volts is concerning. I would absolutely ensure you have good batteries, DON'T assume this, get them tested independantly, almost everyone these days does this for free and most will even tell you if your charging system is good ( many are not ). Then clean all the terminals and battery posts ( actually do this before the test ). Then disable the glow plug circuit, I didn't do this but I heard some do, you'll need to search on the forum on the how-to but I know it's a wire from the passenger side battery ( or so it's been said ). Soldering the FICM is easy but you have to take it out, split the case and then you'll see you have to remove what I call " the caramilk" secret that covers the screws. I used a scalpel and patience, and yes it sucks and it's tedious. Then you can remove the board from the case. Remember the screws that are behind the plate on the surface of the FICM, need to be removed as well to get the circuit board off. All of this sounds like a lot of work but it isn't. Then you can get access to the soldering joints. I re melted the caramilk secret in a spoon and re applied it once it was melted to make it as factory as possible and to support the items near it from vibration as was originally intended.

 

At this point, only online but I hear Napa will be or may be carrying it