FICM testing procedure
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 225
Likes: 4
From: ILL relocated to Ozarks
Good to see its running again
Do you know whether your FICM has the latest programming since about Nov of 2009 or whether it has any of the past inductive heat programming? Also you can check to make sure there is => 11.5 volts at the FICM. This can be verified by measuring the voltage on the next screw down from the one that should have the 48V on it. The remaining two lower screws are grounded.
Your numbers indicate that there has been some improvements but it still appears there maybe a problem. The power converter is made of 4 circuits which combined makes the 48V. The fact that you get 36V might suggest that only 3 of the 4 circuits are functioning. If only two were working you would have around 24V.
The data I listed a couple posts back was intended to be a tool to assit in isolating the problems with the 48V Dc-DC converter board. If one has the basic equipment they can isolate whether it is the converter board or something else going on.
Also to get historical background on the issues look into TSB 09-24-3 and TSB 08-26-3 also TSB 04-18-6 and 07-5-4 as they mention specific wire chaffing and other issues. If you don't have them I could email them to you.
Do you know whether your FICM has the latest programming since about Nov of 2009 or whether it has any of the past inductive heat programming? Also you can check to make sure there is => 11.5 volts at the FICM. This can be verified by measuring the voltage on the next screw down from the one that should have the 48V on it. The remaining two lower screws are grounded.
Your numbers indicate that there has been some improvements but it still appears there maybe a problem. The power converter is made of 4 circuits which combined makes the 48V. The fact that you get 36V might suggest that only 3 of the 4 circuits are functioning. If only two were working you would have around 24V.
The data I listed a couple posts back was intended to be a tool to assit in isolating the problems with the 48V Dc-DC converter board. If one has the basic equipment they can isolate whether it is the converter board or something else going on.
Also to get historical background on the issues look into TSB 09-24-3 and TSB 08-26-3 also TSB 04-18-6 and 07-5-4 as they mention specific wire chaffing and other issues. If you don't have them I could email them to you.
New User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
S.O.S. Yester day my 04 6.0L crew cab F350 freaked out at a stop light , and had to be put on the hook to get home.
It loss all power on exheleration (when it did start to move it smoked like hell) then started to chug. When the turbo started to spool up the smoke got really thick (charcoal to black in color) . So I pulled over sat for a bit it idels smooth no noise no nocks (exept normal rattle) . when I put it in gear the no power thing and smoke started up again. After the tow truck droped aff my rig I moved it around the drive with no power loss but when i spoole up the motor it started to smoke a little so I shut it down and came here for some advise before spending the big bucks down at ford.
It loss all power on exheleration (when it did start to move it smoked like hell) then started to chug. When the turbo started to spool up the smoke got really thick (charcoal to black in color) . So I pulled over sat for a bit it idels smooth no noise no nocks (exept normal rattle) . when I put it in gear the no power thing and smoke started up again. After the tow truck droped aff my rig I moved it around the drive with no power loss but when i spoole up the motor it started to smoke a little so I shut it down and came here for some advise before spending the big bucks down at ford.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,927
Likes: 3,651
S.O.S. Yester day my 04 6.0L crew cab F350 freaked out at a stop light , and had to be put on the hook to get home.
It loss all power on exheleration (when it did start to move it smoked like hell) then started to chug. When the turbo started to spool up the smoke got really thick (charcoal to black in color) . So I pulled over sat for a bit it idels smooth no noise no nocks (exept normal rattle) . when I put it in gear the no power thing and smoke started up again. After the tow truck droped aff my rig I moved it around the drive with no power loss but when i spoole up the motor it started to smoke a little so I shut it down and came here for some advise before spending the big bucks down at ford.
It loss all power on exheleration (when it did start to move it smoked like hell) then started to chug. When the turbo started to spool up the smoke got really thick (charcoal to black in color) . So I pulled over sat for a bit it idels smooth no noise no nocks (exept normal rattle) . when I put it in gear the no power thing and smoke started up again. After the tow truck droped aff my rig I moved it around the drive with no power loss but when i spoole up the motor it started to smoke a little so I shut it down and came here for some advise before spending the big bucks down at ford.
New User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
milage is 119000
Ive had the truck for 2.5 years never ever had a problem with it it always starts on the second or third revolution of the motor, and runs strong . Although about 2 weeks ago the truck shuttered for a second when I put it in reverse.
Ive never had to go to the Ford shop ever . I replaced the fuel filters , Oil filter and air filter about 4000 mile ago .
Ive had the truck for 2.5 years never ever had a problem with it it always starts on the second or third revolution of the motor, and runs strong . Although about 2 weeks ago the truck shuttered for a second when I put it in reverse.
Ive never had to go to the Ford shop ever . I replaced the fuel filters , Oil filter and air filter about 4000 mile ago .
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Do you know the previous/original owner and have access to previous maintanance? Would love to hear the original history, ie, how many egr's, turbos, FICM repairs and rather the egr has been removed, blocked or electrically disconnected.
I have a 2004 6.0 F250 and my first egr went south at about 20,000. Then at 54,000 another egr replacement along with a turbo. Thank God was still under warranty. I disconnected the egr electrically only shortly after that last episode but that was only 10,000 miles ago so to soon to tell. I just removed and resoldered my FICM due to poor to no cold start with great success.
I am no expert but hopefully some of the pro's will chime in soon with advise based on your recent issues you have explained. This is a great forum and has really helped me out!
Good luck.
I have a 2004 6.0 F250 and my first egr went south at about 20,000. Then at 54,000 another egr replacement along with a turbo. Thank God was still under warranty. I disconnected the egr electrically only shortly after that last episode but that was only 10,000 miles ago so to soon to tell. I just removed and resoldered my FICM due to poor to no cold start with great success.
I am no expert but hopefully some of the pro's will chime in soon with advise based on your recent issues you have explained. This is a great forum and has really helped me out!
Good luck.
New User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Clinton, Utah
S.O.S. Yester day my 04 6.0L crew cab F350 freaked out at a stop light , and had to be put on the hook to get home.
It loss all power on exheleration (when it did start to move it smoked like hell) then started to chug. When the turbo started to spool up the smoke got really thick (charcoal to black in color) . So I pulled over sat for a bit it idels smooth no noise no nocks (exept normal rattle) . when I put it in gear the no power thing and smoke started up again. After the tow truck droped aff my rig I moved it around the drive with no power loss but when i spoole up the motor it started to smoke a little so I shut it down and came here for some advise before spending the big bucks down at ford.
It loss all power on exheleration (when it did start to move it smoked like hell) then started to chug. When the turbo started to spool up the smoke got really thick (charcoal to black in color) . So I pulled over sat for a bit it idels smooth no noise no nocks (exept normal rattle) . when I put it in gear the no power thing and smoke started up again. After the tow truck droped aff my rig I moved it around the drive with no power loss but when i spoole up the motor it started to smoke a little so I shut it down and came here for some advise before spending the big bucks down at ford.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 225
Likes: 4
From: ILL relocated to Ozarks
Just curious, but why do you say you have to get the most recent flash to use with the 58V conversion?? I know that there was an ealier version on the inductive heat flash that was said to be killing the FICM but if one had the flash before inductive heat came out that might work as well with the 58V conversion??
Also I was wondering whether the 58V conversion was in affect doing the same thing as the inductive heat, that is, because of the higher voltage (58 instead of 48) it is causing the injectors to heat up more?
Also I was wondering whether the 58V conversion was in affect doing the same thing as the inductive heat, that is, because of the higher voltage (58 instead of 48) it is causing the injectors to heat up more?
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
From: Temple City, CA
Should have worded it differently, You gotta get the most recent flash first and see if that helps, it did wonders on my 04 6.0. Took my 04 from hard starting to smooth in the cold mornings. However my 06 would miss for a few miles with the most recent flash at a perfect 48 VDC and barely below 50 degrees F. Decided to bump the voltage to 58VDC on a spare FICM with an old flash for my 06 and it was even worse. I then had the flash updated and left the 58VDC mod on and I have no more bad cold starts and doesn't miss at all. Time will tell the tale but so far no ill effects only good things for the 3 weeks.
New User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Start by pulling codes if you can. If you can't get codes, then pull the EGR valve and take a look. Might as well do it w/ the nose lower than the back end just to see if there is any wetness in there. Also, try to look at the ICP sensor and harness to see if it is oil soaked.
Thanks for the heads up on the EGR , Pulled it out yesterday and it was FUNKY>>>>> it wouldn't close untill a little love tap . Then i went into the procces of cleaning it ( by the numbers in the thread on how to clean the EGR).. To make a long story short it is back to runnning like a champ. THANK YOU ALL WHO RESPONDED TO MY S.O.S.
Jeff