dave did you program the new ficm?
did it run after you installed it at all. if so please fo back and check the connections

 

It means you had a good seal from when it was sealed at the factory for sure. The air pressure change when opening the cover just means you opened it at a different temperature than what it was sealed at.

 

No, I didn't. We installed the new box and tried to start the truck... nothing. I need to take the truck to Ford and reflash the new box I take it?

Is this something that I could do myself or do I need Ford to do it?

Thanks,

Dave

 

Unfortunately Ford has to have the truck to reflash the FICM. It has to be installed in the truck. It's nothing you can do.

PHP and Innovative Diesel can reflash a FICM separately, if you prefer a little better throttle response, and it will be about the same price as a tow bill probably.

 

Long story short I bought this truck (2003 F-350 6.0L) It always had a bit of a starting issue. Sometimes it would fire right up whwn cold and other times it would be hard starting. Took it to ford and ford said engine dusted. I called BS because the truck was getting 18 mpg on hwy with 37 inch tires and 8 inch lift.And always had stock filter.Plus it was an intermitent problem...if engine was dusted wouldn't it be consistently not started good?
So kept driving the truck for another 7 months.Sometimes wouldn't start when hot and other times would fire right up and I thought hpop problem. Then it started running really bad overnight and really long cranks to start and just barely starting. I would have to give it a touch of ether to start. (i know...not supposed to do that..)
Then one day it fired up and was knocking real bad...like injectors not firing,it would barely pull it self around in 4 low. The temp climbed up real fast and it started pooring coolant out. Never would attempt to fire after that.
I thought well,maybe it is an icp sensor...changed that but that wasn't it. Wouldn't even attemp to fire with a shot of ether now.Pulled injectors on one side and there were no carbon deposits and everything looked clean.
Searched you tube and typed in "bad FICM" A truck had identical starting issues mine had and so I think this may be one reason why it won't fire up.
did the test tonight on the FICM and this is what I got...........

Key on/engine off -48V
Key on glow plugs buzzing - 24v
Key on engine cranking over- It would stay at 48 volts for a second or two then droped down to 41v while cranking (because it doesn't run)

So is the voltage low while cranking because the engine isn't starting?? going to look at this FICM and see if I can find anything.

Also I had two newer batteries and they were fully charged before starting the test. After the test,I pulled them out and put them back on my charger. Said they were at 12.4 volts. The charger also read 70% so I began recharging them. Could they be that low from doing this test? I did do the test twice to double check so that might be why batteries are lower???

Any info would be appreciated.
P.S This is my first post so hello everyone from Alberta Canada!

 

there is a you tube vide that says" bad ficm" or something like that...my truck would sound the same when it used to run....

 

Welcome to FTE.

Load test the batteries (individually) - not just voltage check.
I wouldn't think that the FICM checks would drain the batteries.

If new batteries are having problems, it could be the charging system. Check all connections (including grounds) and have the alternator tested.

Your FICM is most likely bad if you measured 24V.

Getting hot and "pouring out" coolant is not related to the electrical system or the FICM. You have other issues that will take some diagnostic work. Where was the coolant coming from? Did it leak coolant when idling, or after running it awhile?

Any codes retrieved?

Your engine may be hydrolocked. I would avoid cranking until you have learned more OR remove the glow plugs and crank (see if it spews out coolant).

 

As for the batteries,the truck hasn't moved in almost a year and the batteries have been sitting on the shelf and charged periodically. So no alt problems.

The reason the thing was spewing coolant was because the truck was basically running on a few cylinders and I continued to drive it (or attempt to drive it) Engine would definately run hot if working that hard.

and hyrolocked? I've turned the engine over countless times trying to diagnos it so I wouldn't say it's hydro locked.

 

Ok need some fast help here. My truck was doing the stumble on cold start the started to what sounded like back fire. now will not start at all. had a budy do a scan and all 8 injectors low circuit. So i just pulled the batteries had them test with load. Batteries checked good. did the FICM test i have the the 7 and tested the one on the left on the row of 4. got 13 volts with koeo. after a few sec it drops to 1. tried to crank it and nothing changed.. Is this a bad ficm or do i have other issues? i am headed out of town for the weekend and would like to get it sent out if this a FICM issue. Thank in advance for yolu help.

 

Ficm is messed up it should be at 48 volts koeo and cranking.

 

Ok, did the KOEO and had 47v. The engine is cold and batteries are a little weak.I didn't do the cranking test as it started to rain. I have an early 03 excursion. the ficm is a 4 bolt. I'm guessing it has been replaced before I bought it. Here is the info under the cover... (652103.03.10 REV A 08 2006) I guess this is a 06 ficm. Any insight would be great.

 

It's been replaced at some point since it's a 4 bolt FIM. You really really need to check it cranking to get proper results. What is the truck doing?

 

I just bought the truck in June. I know nothing about it's history. I wanted to check it to know what I had and to make sure I have no troubles on the future.It has a little of turbo lag off the line. I wanted to check the simple things first before I pull the turbo. I'm beginning to think it is the up pipe leaking.

 

I thought that this video link should be added to this thread (since it is a Tech Folder thread):

YouTube - Ford 6.0 FICM Testing & Removal Instructional Video

Thanks for the link Troy.

 

Excellent idea Mark... This way it's archived for others to find.