has anyone seen any gains from fixing there FICM besides power gians, like fuel economy or exhaust smells cleaner?

 

Thanks all you who posted info . You saved me $1200+ . My situation was one of increasing instances of stall/ 'engine hiccup' that rapidly developed into a very hard start and nonrun above 1200rpm as it got cold. This started when I had a battery failure . I replaced the batteries as soon as I noticed a weakness. (Not soon enough apparently. From now on mine are replaced at least ever 4 years maybe sooner). From this and a few other forums info I found the low voltage (18 volts at key on) and I pulled and checked the Ficm. Sure enough one of the resistors literally fell off the board. I resoldered that one and visually inspected the others with a mag glass. Seeing nothing I didn't reflow the solder but just returned the module to service and it ran a lot better but still not perfect. I pulled the unit again and followed the advice of a DR Quad from another forum and reflowed the solder on all 16 specified connections, hooked it back up and my fuel milage is back to as new level ,the power is back and not a bit of trouble since.
I have one bit of advice and one request for advice to add to this thread.
My advice is in answer to those of you who are not comfortable with a soldering iron. You can solder it yourself and it's fairly easy BUT this card will cost you several hundred dollars if you ruin it with too much heat-say from a pistol grip soldering gun- and if you let solder unknowingly overrun and contact another component it's not going to work and you won't know why. Do it yourself but read a bit about how to solder and practice on a discarded card from a trashed radio first. The dollar store soldering iron is probably NOT going to be a good idea since they usually are only 15 watts or less and will not get hot enough or will require a long contact with the board and that can damage some parts. If you still are worried then check around; any radio -tv shop should be able to do it for a few bucks.
The advice I need is how to get the induction heating program removed. The Ford dealer's shop gave a blank stare when I asked and said they could just reflash with the newest update. Not what I'm looking for.
I live where it rarely gets below freezing and I run full synthetic going to 5-30w in the winter unless I'm towing a heavy load. If I want any extra heat at start I'll plug up the block heater. I 'm considering buying AE and would like to know if it could disable the foul function.
Thanks again guys ; money was tight this last year and the Ford dealer was not in my budget.

 

AE will not disable the inductive heating. When was you vehicle flashed with the inductive heating? There are some different variants of the inductive heating now, the more recent flashes are easier on the electronics. The older inductive heating flash was very aggresive and if you have that one it may be beneficial for you to have the dealership update you to the latest program. The techs at the dealership can only go forward on updates not backward as I understand it.

 

Thanks gtdan01.
I don't know about the reflash. It's an 05 that I bought in 07. I have put about 40k on it and haven't turned a nut on it since except for fluid and filters.
I'll gamble the $90 reflash if it could help.
What do you suggest?
Major

 

If you think you have an old inductive heating flash then I would say go for the update. Are you running any type of tuner or is your truck stock?

 

Totally stock . I rarely use it to it's potential - just a loaded cattle trailer occasionally. I don't have the head bolt up grade and can't justify the expense now so I'll leave it at stock unless I have to change it. I get 21+ on lightly loaded hiway trips and 17+ on short hauls. I've been very satisfied with it so far. Until the ficm it's been perfect.
Thanks for the advice.
Major

 

For a stock truck the newest flash is kinda neat because it monitors when ECT and EOT are too far apart and sets a code. This is to let you know the oil cooler is plugged. There are also other improvements they have made that work great for a stock truck, i just can't find the TSB about it.

 

I would definitely say go for the newest reflash on a totally stock truck. Everything I've heard about it is positive and you don't want to be overstressing the already underspec'd (IMHO) components with the old inductive heating flash (maybe).

 

Does this newest flash pertain to the '03 models also? I had updated about 3 years ago when the inductive flash came out.

I also had to get a new FICM (rebuilt unit from my new best friends at SWAMPS). I had terrible cold starting issues and the dealer checked it out and said I needed all new inhectors for a total bill of $2,500. I talked to the guys at Swamps and they exchanged my unit, after that I could start it like normal well below 0 deg. F, WITHOUT plugging it in.

 

I don't think this is the "newest" but it could be newer then the one you currently have and is one of the induction heat flashes variants with some of the newer features which detected oil cooler efficiency. This one is suppose to be easier on the FICM then the original heat flash, ref TSB 09-24-3 (though I'm still running on the original factory flash).

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-i-get-it.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/full...x.php?p=by_tsb


ottr1967, where abouts in northern Il are you ?

 

I am going to have to look up my records and see what date I got flashed, but I think it was the first inductive flash.

I am in the Rockford, IL area.

 

Mine was running fine but out of curiosity I tested the FICM. I noticed when I removed the cover I heard it suck in air as if the unit is vacuum sealed, I really wish I had not opened it now because it is likely vacuum sealed for a very good reason, to prevent moisture and corrosion.

 

If you want to be cute, fill it with dry nitrogen as you finish working on it.

I would prefer it not to be a vacuum --- as if the seal breaks, it sucks in water.

Better to have excess pressure in there --- or even better --- a vent that is filtered and protected from water intrusion.

Take a look at how a hard drive is designed --- very much the same problem.

Positive pressure is better for electronics than negative pressure.

 

It very well could have let out a puff of air, whatever it was there was either positive or negative pressure being released.

 

Howdy all, new here, so please bear with me. I have had an issue with my 2004 F250 6.0 L that has been addressed here (THANKS to all who posted here) and have tested it according to the posts.

As a result, I bought a new FICM and put it in.

History of problem: truck would not start unless the block heater was plugged in, and would run good after start and would start after being run, i.e. the motor was up to operating temperature. After reading the posts here, we tested the old FICM observing voltage on 4th screw, and replaced with new FICM from Ford dealership, voltage failed on old unit when engaging starter, dropped to 26 volts Tested glow plug circuits - ok

Current problem: We have installed the new FICM and now it will not start even after being plugged in.

Can anyone help?

Thank you in advance for your replies........

Dave