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Rusty, I do have pictures of the Aus 4x4 Ambulance rigs, will attempt to transfer them then get them posted, most are not crew cabs (most B100s don't have 4 doors either) but they are more of a "Delivery" or "Parcel" type body.
As far as the truck on eBay, there are some details that need attention, like you guys mentioned. Hacked up steering colomn, wood under the shifter boot, gauge cluster, etc. If you are gonna ask a wild, outrageous price for a truck, (like he was) it better be PERFECT, period.
As far as other truck prices, west coast trucks are in better shape and cheaper to buy. East coast trucks are usually rusted to death BUT they bring premium prices because they are far more uncommon out here and to get one out west to bring back can be costly. I have bought and sold crew cabs and you can get a premium for them here, rusty or not.
Used car dealer down the street from me just sold a VERY nice 31,xxx original mile 1978 CCSB with a walk-in service box for $3,900. It was a Forrest Service truck and was the old light green front to back. Walked down there to look at it and it had sold a couple hours earlier, they were washing it up for the new owner to pick up. Out of the 20+ CCs that I've seen in person it had the nice body of any of them with ZERO rust.
It takes about 30 minutes to check all the Major Cities on Craigslist for a crew cab, I used to routinely do it on one of the Facebook pages but got tired of wasting my time as 90% of the people that Want a CC aren't willing to go get one, no matter how good a deal they are.
Good luck on your search, there was 6 of them posted on CL in the last couple months between Seattle, Portland and Bellingham. The red 4x4 in Bellingham was right at $10,000 and maybe MAYBE worth $4,000.
These trucks really Become rare when they get a For Sale sign put on them.
I never said I wanted to pay $10K for one, I wouldn't spend more than that. They are few and far between in my region and ones that are in halfway decent shape go high.
I figured I'd pay more for a complete truck that needed little work. That scenario is best for my current situation (no shop space for another project)
Obviously I haven't spent as much time in looking for one or I would have already known what prices to expect to see.
I completely agree that we are spoiled with these trucks in the NW, which is why I've given out a standing invitation to anyone wanting/willing to Fly-Buy that I would be happy to open the doors of my place and do what I can to make sure the truck they buy will make their trip home.
Nobody has taken me up on this offer.
The way I see it, I paid $800 for mine (a not perfect 2wd) and it has been a constant daily driver since. All it would have needed for a cross country trip is a Brake Master Cylinder. So a guy gets a plane ticket for a couple hundred, buys a truck for much less than in their market and pays for some parts and the fuel to get home they would still be money ahead. Besides can you put a price on that trip?
I completely agree that we are spoiled with these trucks in the NW, which is why I've given out a standing invitation to anyone wanting/willing to Fly-Buy that I would be happy to open the doors of my place and do what I can to make sure the truck they buy will make their trip home.
Nobody has taken me up on this offer.
The way I see it, I paid $800 for mine (a not perfect 2wd) and it has been a constant daily driver since. All it would have needed for a cross country trip is a Brake Master Cylinder. So a guy gets a plane ticket for a couple hundred, buys a truck for much less than in their market and pays for some parts and the fuel to get home they would still be money ahead. Besides can you put a price on that trip?
Well that's a hell of a deal. Wish I would have had this kind of deal back in 2010 when I bought my last truck in Oregon. I'll take you up on this offer for the next crew I buy if its still open.
I have a 78 F250 Crew Cab that I am trying to bring back to life. It has been setting for at least 5 years. I cleaned carb and put in battery. Got nothing when I turned key.
Nothing on gauges. Horn and lights yes. Put on new solenoid. Still nothing. Jumped around solenoid. Motor spins. Put in some start fluid. Engine cranks and runs 3-4 seconds. Suggestions on what to do next????
Ck all your connections. Make battery pos and neg are good on each end. Look to see is any mice chewed through any wiring. Ck to make sure your getting fuel into the carb.
Yes, it's a standing offer, my interest is keeping these trucks on the road and it doesn't even need to be a crew cab.
Vetman: Welcome to the site. Suggest you start a thread for your truck in the 73-79 section as you will get a lot more traffic than just in the crew cab thread. Sounds like your Ignition Switch isn't functioning or you have a wiring issue. I would run a piece of Fuel Line from the Fuel Pump into a Gas Can and then go about trying to start it, if it's been sitting for at least 5 years it's hard telling how much crap is in the Tank and/or if the sections of rubber Fuel Line are any good.
Thanks Guys for helpful ideas
Tried to gravity gas from container into carb. No luck. Will try to use fuel pump. Does fuel pump make noise when key is on? Hear a noise. Is there a way to jump past key to solenoid? Would like to activate solenoid with out jumping posts.
Thanks Guys for helpful ideas
Tried to gravity gas from container into carb. No luck. Will try to use fuel pump. Does fuel pump make noise when key is on? Hear a noise. Is there a way to jump past key to solenoid? Would like to activate solenoid with out jumping posts.
Your fuel pump is mechanical and when your eng is turning over your fuel pump should be spitting out fuel to the carb. It runs off the cam shaft unless you have a electronic fuel pump. If its not sucking fuel out of the container then the fuel pump is bad or your fuel line is blocked.
Called the guy. Its an original 4x4. He don't have any more pictures, and can't (won't?) take anymore. The 400 in it is seized.
I think I still want it anyway. Lol.
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