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Yeah, I like to hit the easier stuff first.
From reading most of the posts here, it seems that the locks are not moving at all or weak for most. My locks all pop up and down firmly, but only from the passenger side button.
The driver side button is dead most of the time.
WOOHOO! Thanks for the post years ago. Just fixed all 4 doors on my new to me 2000 F250.
I did the foil wrap/replace resistor trick. It did take about 4.5-5 hrs to complete total.
I did find it much easier to pop the plastic thread clips out of the door. These are the clips that hold the wiring against inside door wall. It keeps it from the window area.
After 2 doors I popped those clips off and was able to just bring the door latch unit outside the skin of the door. Then removed the actuator. This eliminated removing the cable.
This does take some patience but the reward is BIG.
When you place the foil wrapped resistor back in make sure it doesnt get torn. I had to redo 1 cause it was ripped and the current wasn't flowing.
Solder iron worked like a champ on the plastic rivets. FIrst pop em off then solder whats left to seal it back up. I just smeared it around like butter.
Ordered a couple key fobs from ebay. Hope they work, my truck did activate memory mode when I cycled the key switch on/off.
I just wanted to say THANKS to everyone who participated in this thread. Just did this to my driver's door lock and it worked great. Four more to go and I'll have saved over $100!
Originally Posted by petrokiller
I did find it much easier to pop the plastic thread clips out of the door. These are the clips that hold the wiring against inside door wall. It keeps it from the window area.
Good tip, this is part of the instructions in the factory shop manual. Made it quite a bit easier for me to get the latch out of the door to disconnect the wiring!
WOOHOO! Thanks for the post years ago. Just fixed all 4 doors on my new to me 2000 F250.
I did the foil wrap/replace resistor trick. It did take about 4.5-5 hrs to complete total.
I did find it much easier to pop the plastic thread clips out of the door. These are the clips that hold the wiring against inside door wall. It keeps it from the window area.
After 2 doors I popped those clips off and was able to just bring the door latch unit outside the skin of the door. Then removed the actuator. This eliminated removing the cable.
This does take some patience but the reward is BIG.
When you place the foil wrapped resistor back in make sure it doesnt get torn. I had to redo 1 cause it was ripped and the current wasn't flowing.
Solder iron worked like a champ on the plastic rivets. FIrst pop em off then solder whats left to seal it back up. I just smeared it around like butter.
Ordered a couple key fobs from ebay. Hope they work, my truck did activate memory mode when I cycled the key switch on/off.
I removed all 5 resistors and replaced them with tin foil I crammed into the slot. They have been working great for 3 years. No cutting pennies, no resistor, just tin foil.
Well, a bit of gloom and doom for this fix....I did both of mine about a year and a half ago. They worked fine until about 2 months ago, both went out within a few days of each other. I pulled them out and both motors were shot.
I ordered two new ones from Ford, a little over $100 for both.
When I got them, they were a little different design than the originals. They're installed
and working properly......I suppose we'll see how long they last?
Eh, if I can get an extra year and a half out of mine without paying a dime it sounds good to me.
You would be the first I've heard of that this happened to though. Any chance something or someone pressed the lock or unlock button for too long sometime since you fixed them?
Well, a bit of gloom and doom for this fix....I did both of mine about a year and a half ago. They worked fine until about 2 months ago, both went out within a few days of each other. I pulled them out and both motors were shot.
I ordered two new ones from Ford, a little over $100 for both.
When I got them, they were a little different design than the originals. They're installed
and working properly......I suppose we'll see how long they last?
I did the foil repair and all 4 eventually went out. The redesigned oem actuators were $45.00 each but they are a way better design.
Well, a bit of gloom and doom for this fix....I did both of mine about a year and a half ago. They worked fine until about 2 months ago, both went out within a few days of each other. I pulled them out and both motors were shot.
I ordered two new ones from Ford, a little over $100 for both.
When I got them, they were a little different design than the originals. They're installed
and working properly......I suppose we'll see how long they last?
Very strange, almost everybody else's lasted for years including mine.
Where does that plastic cap go that looks like it hooks to the cable?
I can't find anywhere to hook the front of it to hold it on.
I see the pics with it but still cant find a place to hook it too.
Eh, if I can get an extra year and a half out of mine without paying a dime it sounds good to me.
You would be the first I've heard of that this happened to though. Any chance something or someone pressed the lock or unlock button for too long sometime since you fixed them?
Agree 100%.....I can remember cars and trucks BEFORE they had power locks, windows, etc...Ah, the gool ole days! We've gotten too lazy....
Well I just clipped one side and put the plastic piece on top of one side not connected.
But it works now but was more of a headache than I thought it would be LOL.
Will have to do the drivers side another time.