When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thats what i needed it for .its got all the goodies on it just no power locks work and ya cant lock the rear hatch door ,even with the key think the rod is off tho so i can fix that.
Got all my locks working now thanks to FTE. Used the foil method and "6x 1/2 self tapping screws to seal the actuator. Broke tabs on two of them but realized there were upper and lower tabs on the actuator so they mounted back fine. Got lucky on the hatch as it had the smaller updated actuator. Just had to clean and lube the mechanism. Now it locks with key and remote. Just have to find broken wire to fix the driver side unlock now. Great to have working locks again.
I replaced all my locks with new ones off ebay. The rear work fine but the pass side will lock most of time but will buzz locking, and the driver will not lock at all just buzzing when i try to lock. They will unlock fine i have lubed all hardware in door. Any ideas???????
I replaced all my locks with new ones off ebay. The rear work fine but the pass side will lock most of time but will buzz locking, and the driver will not lock at all just buzzing when i try to lock. They will unlock fine i have lubed all hardware in door. Any ideas???????
Why didn't you do the tin foil trick? I sent 2 back from ebay before I did all 5 of mine 2 years ago. They weren't made the same, they didn't have the slot in the side or something and couldn't be worked manually. Fixed stock ones are much better.
I did the foil trick several years ago. But by bypassing the little thermal resister the little motor drew to many amps and they burned up after about 6 months. I bought the cheap after market ones on ebay and they didn't last either. Then I bought the redesigned ones from ford and they have been working great for a couple of years now. I think I payed about $45.00 each for the ford ones.
I did the foil trick several years ago. But by bypassing the little thermal resister the little motor drew to many amps and they burned up after about 6 months. I bought the cheap after market ones on ebay and they didn't last either. Then I bought the redesigned ones from ford and they have been working great for a couple of years now. I think I payed about $45.00 each for the ford ones.
Mine have been fixed for probably six years now, and they just keep doing what they're supposed to do.
There are way too many success stories here to believe eliminating thermistors causes problems for the actuators, and I do not believe that the lack of them is what causes burn up.
Laying on the switch too long WILL do that, however.
If one has kids or dogs they leave in the truck unsupervised, this fix is not for them.
Mine have been fixed for probably six years now, and they just keep doing what they're supposed to do.
There are way too many success stories here to believe eliminating thermistors causes problems for the actuators, and I do not believe that the lack of them is what causes burn up.
Laying on the switch too long WILL do that, however.
If one has kids or dogs they leave in the truck unsupervised, this fix is not for them.
Pop
Ya I thought it was kinda weird. I was the only one that posted this problem. But all the motors went out and they showed signs of being hot. Not sure why this happened to me and not to others.